Cylinder switch problems

hijakk

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So I've got a 627-5 PC 4" revolver with the standard, fluted cylinder. I'm attempting to switch it out to the unfluted cylinder that comes on the bloodwork snubbie 627. I ordered the part from S&W, assembled it all, and it locks up and times great.

Unfortunately the trigger won't go all the way back, either manually thumbing the hammer back, or doing a DA pull.

Is there some little trick I'm missing? Will I have to take it to a local smith or something?
 
The hand needs fitted to the cylinder, I would take it to a smith unless you know how to fit one. After it is fitted I would order a new hand for the old cylinder incase you want to put it back in.
 
Cool, thank you, I'll see if someone local will do the work. :D
 
Agree that you should have someone who knows what they are doing fit the cylinder.

If you obtained a new extractor with the new cylinder what needs to be fit is the extractor ratchet, not the hand. There is no reason to modify the hand. Any cutting needed is done on the ratchet, not the hand.
 
hijakk,

I have done a few of these on my 686s. It is not so hard, but you must take your time and not be in any rush. A good, sharp file is all you need. The one I have is dagger shaped and cost about $20.

All the work is done on the ratchet. File just one lug at a time, a couple of strokes of the file each time and test to see if the hand will advance the cylinder and finally ride over the lug. You can't put metal back. Look at you fluted cylinder to see where to file.

Good news, if you really screw up th ratchet, you can get a new extractor from Bownels for about $35. The carry the correct file too.

Go for it.

Westczek
 
Use the old ratchet!!! that's a great idea.

I never could do that because I was switching from 7 to 6 shot cylinders, but fluted to unfluted. Should work fine.

You will have to remove the extractor rod, center pin and springs. A drill chuck and key help in doing that. Just remember it loosens clock-wise, Righty-loosy...

Westczek
 
Well I tell you I was schooled to fit the hand not the cylinder, and to me it makes sence. It is cheaper to replace a $14 dollar item than a $36 dollar one. If the timing needs a tune up the same thing on price. Getting 5 to 8 spots cut the same is hard to do when they measure the same after the machine work and you only have to file one Item to get it to work on all 5 to 8 points. Takes about half a hour to fit the hand and could take hours the other way. Just not the way I was schooled on it. One slip of the file and you are in deep DO-DO.
 
The hand needs fitted to the cylinder, I would take it to a smith unless you know how to fit one. After it is fitted I would order a new hand for the old cylinder incase you want to put it back in.
I would take the original hand out and keep it with the original cylinder since they are a fitted set. Get a new hand for the new cylinder. And I agree, you cut on the hand not the ratchets to get the initial fit of hand width (stone the left hand side of the hand tip). Any cutting on the ratchets is very fine adjustments for "balancing" which is to say make them all alike, not reducing their size to fit to the ratchet. You definitely leave that part to the gunsmith.
 
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Use the old ratchet!!! that's a great idea.
I am not 100% sure that will work as the yoke, cylinder, and ratchet bearing end (against the recoil shield) are adjusted to set end shake and cylinder position in the frame window. It might work, but don't force it if it feels tight going into the frame or you might bend the yoke.
 
bounty - Thanks, I had my head screwed on the wrong end, getting a new hand for the new cylinder is the way to go :D .
 
All of my experience is on three 686s two dash 6s and on dash 5. I have 5 cylinders which work in all three. I have not touched the hands on any of them.

The new extractors I got were all oversized, they need to be fitted, especially the seven-shot. The six-shot extractors didn't need as much filing. A few of the lugs in the two six-shot extractors rotated or were close without filing.

The cylinder lengths are all the same and there is no differnce in front to back movement.

These are all new style cylinders, I don't know if that makes a differnce. Also, I don't know if there is a significant differnce between fitting cylinders or the function of the hand on L frames versus N frames.

Westczek
 
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