I have a similar problem with my CZ-52. It will hold open on both of my magazines, but normally won't lock back after firing the last round on either magazine. As you can see, I installed an after market slide stop that I can operate with my thumb. I thought that might solve the problem, besause the slide stop seemed to be working loose with live fire. It tightened it up some, but it still won't routinely stay open after the last round. The recoil springs are so strong on these pistols, the least little wear on the slide or slide stop will cause the described condition. It doesn't make it dangerous to shoot; it is just inconvenient.
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As you can see it does have a hold open lever and the lever has a protrusion that is suppose to engage the step on the mag follower. This follower won't engage.
That is interesting. How easy was it to install? Another related issue is the spring on the hold open lever seems to be pretty strong. Maybe too strong.
The installation was easy. I forget the company that makes these slide stops. Think I bought it off an Ebay seller, but the part is new and made in the USA. I did a couple of other upgrades on my pistol including hardened rollers and heat treated hardened firing pin. The original Czech firing pins and rollers were produced with inferior metallurgy. The firing pins are prone to breakage (don't dry fire a CZ-52) and if the rollers deform out of round, the slide may become damaged and unusable.
I was not aware of the metallurgy problems. I always thought the CZ 52 was built tough. Upgrades to the weak points seem like a worthy project. The 7.62x25 round is pretty hot, depending on who made it. The old S&B seems to be the hottest, and cleanest I've got a bunch of Romanian (Cartuse Pentru Pistolet) and it is dirty and corrosive, but that's another subject.
My only other complaint is the ergonomics. It feels a little clunky in my hand. I think a select fire 52 w/shoulder stock would be a gas!
The Hold Open Catch on these is a stamping
The spring that actually moves it into position to block and hold the slide in the locked back position is the empty magazine spring.
In doing that job, the mag spring has to overcome the torsion spring tension of the Hold Open Catch Spring which is holding the Catch in the Down or unlocked position.
If certain conditions develop with the springs and their tension and parts wear,,the Slide Stop will not be able to hold the slide open reliably after the last shot is fired.
So a slightly heavy Hold Open Catch Spring & a weak Mag Spring = the Hold open catch being elevated into position w/o much force.
The recoil spring is heavy. The slide is heavy in mass.
That Slide Stop stamping can wear easily on the edge that engages the slide itself to hold it open.
Many will hold open when you manually pull back the slide. But may drop the slide on the last rd fired quite often.
Pull the slide back manually and let it lock if it does. Then see if it will 'Push-Off' by striking the back of the slide.
Many do.
Inspect the slide stop and the area where it contacts the slide during Hold Open for wear.
The recoiling slide can bounce a slightly weak empty magazine spring allowing it to over come the Slide Stop Spring tension. That drops the Slide Stop back down on the last shot (if it ever made it up) and the slide closes instead of locking back.
These pistols were always coming in for problems with slide lock back issues as well as broken firing pins (brittle originals).
Replacement springs helped a lot with these as well as keeping them clean like any other firearm.
There were tons of parts avail when these came in. Lots of upgrade stuff.
Many of the issues were ammo related IMO.