Deposits in 586 cylinder

[ezb57]

Hello All: I have these deposits? in the chambers of this revolver. They are beyond the case neck, even with .357 mag cases. I have brushed the devil out of them but they remain. Are these pits? Any good way to remove them other than a reamer?
Thanks

 

[trulyapostolic]

I really can't tell from the photos. Are you shooting lead or jacketed?

 

[ezb57]

I really can't tell from the photos. Are you shooting lead or jacketed?

Both, mostly jacketed.

 

[Alk8944]

Chuck up either a bronze .38 rifle (.375") bore brush or .40 brush and run it in your electric drill or drill press with bore cleaner for 15 to 30 seconds per hole.

 

[jem102]

Looks like the inevitable scorching from burning powder to me. Every revolver I shoot with any regularity has it. Peak ignition temperature reached with .357 mag loads is about 930° and gun steels begin to degrade @ 1,470° so with repeated firing the steel begins to show the scorch marks. It just is what it is. Mild loads using cast bullets and single based powders will give you the slowest progression if that meets your needs. There are wheel guns out there with 10K+ rounds per charge hole still running strong so I wouldn't worry too much about it. As already stated a bronze brush is your friend along with a judicious dose of JB paste from time to time.Just be sure to clean up all the JB when you are done as you don't want it in the clockworks anywhere.

 

[Fullmetaljacket]

I don't see anything abnormal. Looks pretty darn clean. Keep shooting and cleaning, stop looking at it. I wouldn't break out the reamer either. Just sayin...

 

[Bullet Bob]

I'm an "is it plugged in kind of guy", hopefully you won't mind if I make sure you're not talking about the normal chamber throats (the round concentric lines inside each cylinder).

 

[Nightowl]

I see a build up about half way between the throat step from the chamber to the front of the cylinder. Not much there, really. Several ways to address this that I have tried with the build up from .38s in a .357 Mag chamber. I use .38 bronze chamber brushes in the quarter inch drill, if that is not enough after several passes, I drag out the stainless chamber brushes. I try to avoid the stainless if possible. I eat up a lot of bronze brushes, as I shot a hundred or two lead .38s a week.
Then there is the bronze Chore boy strands wrapped around the bronze brush. (never had much luck with that one). Or a Lewis Lead Remover using the correct bronze screens with the rubber .38 tip. I never tried the .308 rifle brush, but it should work too.
That is a strange place to get the build up I think I saw, though. Usually such leading is at the end of a .38 case fired in a .357 chamber.

 

[glenwolde]

They look pretty damn clean to me. If it's not causing an issue, ignore it. There's always going to be a certain amount of scorching, if you shoot the gun, that's just not practical to remove.

 

[.455_Hunter]

I just assumed it was from shooting a bunch of .38 specials in the .357 cylinder, but that's just me.

 

[schutz5]

Looks like crop circles to me.

Unidentified
Firing
Objects

 

[gwpercle]

Chuck up either a bronze .38 rifle (.375") bore brush or .40 brush and run it in your electric drill or drill press with bore cleaner for 15 to 30 seconds per hole.

If the brush is too loose add a wrapped layer of 0000 steel wool to make a tight fit and then smear with J-B Bore Cleaning Compound ... a fine bore polishing / cleaning compound .
If this doesn't polish the chambers to a nice clean surface ...
Call S&W !
Gary

 

[zonker5]

If the brush is too loose add a wrapped layer of 0000 steel wool to make a tight fit and then smear with J-B Bore Cleaning Compound ... a fine bore polishing / cleaning compound .
If this doesn't polish the chambers to a nice clean surface ...
Call S&W !
Gary

You can also use a small piece of a 3M Scotch Brite pad, it's nylon so it shouldn't scratch anything. Wrap it around a small (.22) jag. The light grey is equivalent to 0000 steel wool.