carpriver
US Veteran
I started with Lee Dies and presses, They work very well, I reload both pistol and rifle. Lee has made improvement in the power measure and why spend the extra money on something you don't really need.
Die issues and what is your favorite die brand
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rhodesengr
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Lockring issues:
As mentioned before, my set of RCBS dies came with a damaged thread on the expander die. I fixed it by chasing the thread but in doing so, I also noticed that the set screw in the locking will re-damage the thread. Also it varies between the dies. I was not able to chase the thread on the sizing die. I guess the whole thing is Nitride coated. I found the lockring set screw does not damage that die. But the expander die thread is easily damaged by the lockring set screw. What's with that? I guess it wouldn't matter if you just set the die once and never have to change the locking but that isn't realistic.
Some companies ship their dies with split-style lockrings and those won't damage the thread. My Hornady dies have split lockrings and it looks like the Lee dies do too. A lot of folks here mentioned Redding as the best but most expensive dies yet from the photos, it looks like their lockrings are the type where the set screw hits the die threads. Is that the case?
RCBS had a lot of fans in this thread but in all the years they have been making dies, they ship their product with lockrings that damage the die threads?
I ordered a set of the Lee dies for 357mag; the four die set. I like the idea of separating the set and crimp stages so I wanted to give them a try. Hopefully they ship with the split lock rings. I bought a set of Hornady lockrings for my RCBS dies.
The idea of of trying the Lee dies came from responses here so thanks to everyone.
As mentioned before, my set of RCBS dies came with a damaged thread on the expander die. I fixed it by chasing the thread but in doing so, I also noticed that the set screw in the locking will re-damage the thread. Also it varies between the dies. I was not able to chase the thread on the sizing die. I guess the whole thing is Nitride coated. I found the lockring set screw does not damage that die. But the expander die thread is easily damaged by the lockring set screw. What's with that? I guess it wouldn't matter if you just set the die once and never have to change the locking but that isn't realistic.
Some companies ship their dies with split-style lockrings and those won't damage the thread. My Hornady dies have split lockrings and it looks like the Lee dies do too. A lot of folks here mentioned Redding as the best but most expensive dies yet from the photos, it looks like their lockrings are the type where the set screw hits the die threads. Is that the case?
RCBS had a lot of fans in this thread but in all the years they have been making dies, they ship their product with lockrings that damage the die threads?
I ordered a set of the Lee dies for 357mag; the four die set. I like the idea of separating the set and crimp stages so I wanted to give them a try. Hopefully they ship with the split lock rings. I bought a set of Hornady lockrings for my RCBS dies.
The idea of of trying the Lee dies came from responses here so thanks to everyone.
Originally the lock ring set screws all had a lead shot under them to keep them from mashing into the die threads. You can still do that...but when you want them to loosen you will have to unscrew the set screw and (lightly)tap it with a plastic hammer to make it turn loose
twodog max
Member
Newer RCBS dies have brass contacting the die threads. Well at least my newer dies do.
I have/ had Lyman, RCBS, Texan, C&H, Bonnaza, Redding, Pacific, Herters and only dies I ever had trouble with was Hornady New Dimension and Lee.
If I was to buy a set of dies today they would be RCBS.
I had dies for just about every common, military and a lot of the old cartridges that started as BP. Made it a policy never to sell dies unless had multiples of same. If you do I guarantee you the next day you will get another gun and you will be buying the dies again. Murphy's Die Law.
If I was to buy a set of dies today they would be RCBS.
I had dies for just about every common, military and a lot of the old cartridges that started as BP. Made it a policy never to sell dies unless had multiples of same. If you do I guarantee you the next day you will get another gun and you will be buying the dies again. Murphy's Die Law.
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rhodesengr
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My RCBS dies are only a few months old. I will look to see if the screw is brass or steel but it defiantly mashed the die threads.
The thread defect as received was lower down closer to the base but when I removed to the lock-ring to chase the thread, there was a second mashed thread at that point. In fact, at first the lockring was stuck. I am just going to replace the lockrings with the split type from Hornady or Lee.
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rhodesengr
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The reviews here for the Reddding ring make for some interesting reading. A bunch of 1-stars about dorking up the thread and some 5-stars sating a softer metal contacts the threads. I guess I don't understand why everyone doesn't use the split-ring design.
Redding Die Locking Ring 7/8-14 Thread
Redding Die Locking Ring 7/8-14 Thread
RCBS for my "accuracy" dies, Lee for my "shooters". Lee factory crimp dies for all. Done those for years for my 38's, 357's, 44spls, 44mags, and 45acp.
Y'all do know RCBS had split rings too. Discontinued of course. The new black rings have supposedly brass setscrews. Forster had splits . RCBS did away with split rings due to cost I guess. I'm not real keen on the Hornady split rings but they do work. They are ok but the flat sides don't always work on my Dillon presses...which are admittedly a bit tight for room. All said I never had a problem with the rings RCBS(and others) had with the piece of lead in them. Just had to tap 'em with a plastic hammer and they came loose...no buggered threads either. And you can still put a lead shot in the new lockrings. Voila' All fixed!
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
The split lock rings are great. Forster, Lyman, Hornady and now Lee all make them. The new Lee locking rings look good and are not expensive.
How much are you belling the case before seating the bullet? You should only bell just enough to keep the bullet upright during seating. Minimal amount that works is the key. Additionally, over time the crimp die, especially the brand that likes to rub a little, will build up with brass. Clean that die with rubbing alcohol and a rag, you may be surprised. But my bet is to large of a bell and some dies are a bit tighter than others (Lee) in this particular operation.
And a little more info for you. I changed from media tumbling to wet tumbling several years ago and I much prefer the wet. However, that process removes all the lubricity from the case (talking pistol brass) and can be a little sticky feeling in the press handle during sizing or belling stations. I tend to give the brass a light spritz of lube and shake them all up before processing. This really smooths out the entire process.
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Wee Hooker
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I'm set up to reload 11 handgun calibers and 6 rifle calibers. I've tried other brands ( Lyman, Dillon, RCBS) over the last 30 years and always come back to Lee .Usually the 4 die sets when available. They just work for me and are intuitive to set/up and use. $50/set and the ammo shoots better than I can.
A few comments based on posts above, FWIW . . . .
Lee lockrings: they drive me nuts! The idea of a rubber o-ring to keep the lockring in place is flawed in my opinion. It doesn't work well for me since it doesn't really lock in place very well and they drag as you try to spin them on. I much prefer locked or unlocked, not always half-locked. Maybe Lee has changed their approach since I last looked since people seem well-pleased with Lee.
I've never had issues with RCBS rings, either split or setscrew. None of my die threads were deformed. It just takes a light touch on the setscrew; no need to really mash it down.
I concur with Mike0251 about wet tumbling. It works very well, but yess indeed, it makes brass drag on expander plugs and tougher to size, even with carbide dies. Presently I run a "rinse cycle" with automobile wash n' wax. This leaves a film of wax on the cases and reduces friction. No more squeaking and squawking when expanding cases. I will try spritzing some lube on the cases. It would be simpler than running another wet rinse cycle as I've been doing.
Lee lockrings: they drive me nuts! The idea of a rubber o-ring to keep the lockring in place is flawed in my opinion. It doesn't work well for me since it doesn't really lock in place very well and they drag as you try to spin them on. I much prefer locked or unlocked, not always half-locked. Maybe Lee has changed their approach since I last looked since people seem well-pleased with Lee.
I've never had issues with RCBS rings, either split or setscrew. None of my die threads were deformed. It just takes a light touch on the setscrew; no need to really mash it down.
I concur with Mike0251 about wet tumbling. It works very well, but yess indeed, it makes brass drag on expander plugs and tougher to size, even with carbide dies. Presently I run a "rinse cycle" with automobile wash n' wax. This leaves a film of wax on the cases and reduces friction. No more squeaking and squawking when expanding cases. I will try spritzing some lube on the cases. It would be simpler than running another wet rinse cycle as I've been doing.
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rhodesengr
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I bought a wet tumbler but am still running through new brass but I plan to try that method. I saw some videos where they use a Turtlewax wash and wax product instead of Dawn in the mix with Lemyshine. The idea being you get waxed brass without a separate step. Can't say if it works but sounded promising.
I got a Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler at the yaed sale Saturday. Had to buy it for 60 bucks . Fellow said he used it once and had trouble with expanders wanting to stick so never used it again. I got pins, separator, magnet, Lemishine and an extra 5 lbs of pins. So I'm going to use it on handgun cases. The idea of a rinse with auto polish is neat...but I spritz with spray on lube even using carbide dies
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rhodesengr
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The new Lee lockrings are split. Not sure if they also have the o-ring on the bottom. From the photos online, it looks like they do.
I can see two-sides to having the o-ring. I guess one-could always take them out and just use the clamp screw.
Paul in Nevada
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If you want a locking ring, the split style are superior to the set screw type. Hornady makes a great one. I am not as fond of the set screw type but I think some people here are way over tightening the set screw. I agree the steel-on-steel design is dumb and they should all have a plastic or brass nose on the setscrew. But if you are damaging the threads with the setscrew you are over-tightening it. Modest torque is plenty.
The split Lee lockrings are an upgrade. Die sets and most die accessories come with the solid O-ring lockrings with the new splined drive wrench interface. The spline drive and the stubby wrench prevent you from over tightening the locking and thus defeating the purpose of the O-ring. The split ring version is identical in function but it allows "set and forget" repeatability. This is only an advantage for "utility" dies like the universal decapper, or high volume dies that you rarely adjust.
The O-ring is a great feature that has been copied by custom die makers like Whedden so don't sell it short. It gives you a "floating" die that self-centers (to a degree) in the press.
I have a few thoughts on the Lee FCD as well. The rifle version and the pistol version are two totally different animals. The rifle version crimps with a collet. It has the advantage of being indifferent to case length and it crimps with zero setback. It can also crimp rounds even when the bullet lacks a cannelure.
The pistol version uses a carbide ring instead of a collet. The ring will produce a taper crimp first, then a roll crimp if it is adjusted down. The ring also post-sizes cases which is an interesting feature. Post sizing can correct concentricity issues with loaded rounds. it can fix "Glocked" brass that has a bulge near the head. Posts sizing might not be desirable with some loads because it could swage down cast bullets.
My experience: My rifle dies are mostly Redding and RCBS but I still crimp with the FCD. I use the FCD with several pistol cartridges but mostly because I have the Lee 4 die sets and I seat/crimp in separate steps. Otherwise I don't consider it indispensable like I do with rifle loads. For 9mm and 40S&W I use Dillon dies and the Dillon crimp. I do use the 40s&w FCD in the "Bulge Buster" kit for unknown range pickup brass.
The split Lee lockrings are an upgrade. Die sets and most die accessories come with the solid O-ring lockrings with the new splined drive wrench interface. The spline drive and the stubby wrench prevent you from over tightening the locking and thus defeating the purpose of the O-ring. The split ring version is identical in function but it allows "set and forget" repeatability. This is only an advantage for "utility" dies like the universal decapper, or high volume dies that you rarely adjust.
The O-ring is a great feature that has been copied by custom die makers like Whedden so don't sell it short. It gives you a "floating" die that self-centers (to a degree) in the press.
I have a few thoughts on the Lee FCD as well. The rifle version and the pistol version are two totally different animals. The rifle version crimps with a collet. It has the advantage of being indifferent to case length and it crimps with zero setback. It can also crimp rounds even when the bullet lacks a cannelure.
The pistol version uses a carbide ring instead of a collet. The ring will produce a taper crimp first, then a roll crimp if it is adjusted down. The ring also post-sizes cases which is an interesting feature. Post sizing can correct concentricity issues with loaded rounds. it can fix "Glocked" brass that has a bulge near the head. Posts sizing might not be desirable with some loads because it could swage down cast bullets.
My experience: My rifle dies are mostly Redding and RCBS but I still crimp with the FCD. I use the FCD with several pistol cartridges but mostly because I have the Lee 4 die sets and I seat/crimp in separate steps. Otherwise I don't consider it indispensable like I do with rifle loads. For 9mm and 40S&W I use Dillon dies and the Dillon crimp. I do use the 40s&w FCD in the "Bulge Buster" kit for unknown range pickup brass.
I acquired a set of RCBS dies at a good price at an auction. Cleaned them up and went to install them in a four hole turret for my Lee progressive loader. The Locking rings are so large they will not fit in the 4 hole turret without binding on the other dies.
Back to Lee dies for me.
Back to Lee dies for me.
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
No need to stop using the RCBS dies if you want to use them. Personally I have no problem with Lee handgun dies and use them on my Lee 4 Hole Turret Press.
You can change the rings to the new Lee rings. They are made to fit Lee presses of course.
There are 4 choices on this page:
Reloading Die Parts & Accessories for Sale | MidwayUSA
Set of 4 different color ultimate rings, Set of 3 silver ultimate rings with a wrench, 3 ring on a card which are finger tightened and an item with the wrench alone.
All you need is to change the rings on the RCBS dies.
I use RCBS dies in my Dillon and found the same thing. The centers in the 550 toolhead are too close to accommodate RCBS rings. No problem, I just replace the rings with Dillon rings and all is good.
As an aside, I have no trouble at all with non-Dillon dies in the 550.
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