Hi I'm a new member but I've been lurking for quite a while. I'm looking to buy a 4" 625 for Bowling Pin, Steel & IDPA Matches. I'm currently shooting a 686-1. I've seen or handled some 625's, but I don't see much of a difference between the Performance Center, JM version & the standard 625's. They all seem to come with triggers that needed work. Aside from esthetics are there other differences? I already load 45ACP for a 1911.
Differences between 625's
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My 625 JM lacks for nothing, but I have no experience with other 625 variants. I removed the wooden grips and replaced them with SB Pach Grippers as I have nerve damage in the web of my shooting hand. Don't know about a need for trigger work; my DA is smooth, and since all my wheelies have to double (and triple) as potential street guns, I have no complaints.
Accuracy is MOPP (minute of paper plate) at all practical ranges and double taps are not difficult with W-W generic hardball and HPs.
Stay safe, partner.
Accuracy is MOPP (minute of paper plate) at all practical ranges and double taps are not difficult with W-W generic hardball and HPs.
Stay safe, partner.
Thanks Kaaskop49....The 625's I've seen were being used for competition & I guess these guys do trigger jobs on all their guns. I probably would too. All of the gun makers are concerned with law suits & triggers are never as light as we would like for Comp. My carry gun has a stock trigger.
manyguns
Member
I have been shooting a 4 and 5 inch 625 in competition for 10 years. I have one old & 1 new style lock work. Both are stock and just used a bunch. Never felt a need for a trigger job. Just work them a bit and they will be fine. You can have more problems on moon clip guns than you might expect when you try to lighten the trigger.
Thanks for the advice. You're right. You should shoot a gun for a while before rushing into a trigger job.
One of the performance center guns I tried was a 627 & the trigger was pretty heavy but fairly smooth. It might not of been shot much. He sold it to someone I shoot with. I would like to see if the trigger gets better.
What kind of problems could I run into with moon clip guns?
The moon clips (we called them fullmoons when they first came out) are light years ahead of the old 'half-moon' clips. The 1/2 moons, produced for WWI use, were more flimsy and subject to bending. They could, and did, cause the cylinder to bind during rotation, but I am unaware of the actual mechanics. This happened to me on several different revolvers.
The difficulty with moons is loading and unloading them. There are tools available to accomplish this, but I still find it a chore. You can use .45ACP cases without the clips, but I have a M-22 of 1917 where the shoulder on one chamber is a smidge deeper, causing misfires without the clip. .45AR (Auto Rim) cartridges were produced for use in these revolvers: BuffaloBore makes some planet=wrecker loads (and standard-style loads) in .45AR. No clips are used with AR ammo.
Hope this is of interest. Stay safe, partner.
The difficulty with moons is loading and unloading them. There are tools available to accomplish this, but I still find it a chore. You can use .45ACP cases without the clips, but I have a M-22 of 1917 where the shoulder on one chamber is a smidge deeper, causing misfires without the clip. .45AR (Auto Rim) cartridges were produced for use in these revolvers: BuffaloBore makes some planet=wrecker loads (and standard-style loads) in .45AR. No clips are used with AR ammo.
Hope this is of interest. Stay safe, partner.
Redlegvzv
Member
The .45 ACP takes very well to moon clips -- using the Moon Clip Tool I can Moon and De-Moon a clip in 30 seconds or so. Very easy and no sweat. When I bought my 625JM I was a little concerned about the moon clip issue, but frankly, I am now sold on them.
The Moon Clip Tool along with moon clips can be bought here: Moon Clips, These are the full moon clips sold by The Revolver Supply Company
You can also buy polymer moon clips which require no tool. They work fine. Link is here: page_4
The Moon Clip Tool along with moon clips can be bought here: Moon Clips, These are the full moon clips sold by The Revolver Supply Company
You can also buy polymer moon clips which require no tool. They work fine. Link is here: page_4
At my club I've seen a few interesting moon clip tools. The last one I saw took only a couple seconds to load & he turned it over & unloaded as fast. I'll pay more attention in the future.
Anyone know of any differences between the different 625's?
Anyone know of any differences between the different 625's?
Jerry N.
Member
I bought the PC version over the JM version. There are differences but my primary reason was the look of the bottom lug versus the full log of the JM. One other difference is the trigger. The PC version has a smooth trigger. The JM has a serrated trigger. There's probably pluses and minuses to each trigger but there is a difference. I think the sights are different also. I forget how, but I do recall that being a difference.
Let me mention the Rimz flexible synthetic moonclips. Expensive, but loadable and unloadable with finger pressure only. I wouldn't be without them.
Generally speaking, I find triggers to be just about right on any production N-frame revolver I have ever owned. Maybe a rough one gets out of the factory now and again, but I would expect them to wear in with not too much shooting.
The original 625 was introduced in 1988 as the Model of 1988 and with the perplexing model designation 625-2. That's right, no null or dash-one varieties for this gun. Within a year the 625-3 Model of 1989 was out with not much difference save for front sight and etched labels rather than rollmarks. The 625-3 came in both 3" and 4" barrels, and the longer one might suit your needs if you are willing to buy a used gun. I have a 3" 625-3 that is quite accurate but looks a little like an overgrown belly gun. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it for bowling pins, but one can probably train oneself to short-barrel accuracy at longer distances. Is there a minimum barrel length for IDPA? I'm not a competition shooter so I don't know the rules.
At any rate, the point is that there are more options than just the PC and Miculek guns. Individual preference may drive a final decision more than the specs for a single model. A 20- to 25-year old 625 might be just the ticket if you can find one.
My 625-3 has a smooth semi-wide trigger -- not target width, but wider than 1/4". I imagine the same trigger is standard on the 4" model.
The original 625 was introduced in 1988 as the Model of 1988 and with the perplexing model designation 625-2. That's right, no null or dash-one varieties for this gun. Within a year the 625-3 Model of 1989 was out with not much difference save for front sight and etched labels rather than rollmarks. The 625-3 came in both 3" and 4" barrels, and the longer one might suit your needs if you are willing to buy a used gun. I have a 3" 625-3 that is quite accurate but looks a little like an overgrown belly gun. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it for bowling pins, but one can probably train oneself to short-barrel accuracy at longer distances. Is there a minimum barrel length for IDPA? I'm not a competition shooter so I don't know the rules.
At any rate, the point is that there are more options than just the PC and Miculek guns. Individual preference may drive a final decision more than the specs for a single model. A 20- to 25-year old 625 might be just the ticket if you can find one.
My 625-3 has a smooth semi-wide trigger -- not target width, but wider than 1/4". I imagine the same trigger is standard on the 4" model.
Dale53
Member
My most shot revolvers are my two 625's (5000-7500 rds per year). I use Rimz clips with .45 ACP cases for range use. I have a 5" 625-6 and a 4" 625-8 JM Special. The JM has a grooved trigger. The 625-6 has a wide flat trigger. The JM Special has a gold bead front sight (interchangeable), a grooved trigger, and JM's mongram. They are both superb revolvers.
I replaced the mainspring and rebound spring with a matched set of Jerry Miculek's springs (Bang, Inc.) and tuned the trigger to 9.0 lbs dbl action and 3.0 lbs. single action (my personal preference). I shoot NOTHING but my own cast bullets (mostly an MP mold for the #68 H&G 200 gr SWC but also use an original H&G four cavity mold for the #130 195 gr SWC). I also have an NOE mold for their version of the Lyman 454424 bullet, a 250 gr Keith.
I also shoot the .45 Auto Rim case when I don't want to fool with moonclips. Here is THE moonclip tool - painless to operate but pricy:
BMT Equipped, Inc.
Watch the video for painless and QUICK moonclipping...
I use Ranch Products steel full moon clips for serious work. The Model 25 RIMZ Carbon Fiber/Polymer clips are the latest generation and are quite good and allow you to load and unload with your fingers and seem quite reliable. That's my current most used type...
Dale53
FWIW
Dale54
I replaced the mainspring and rebound spring with a matched set of Jerry Miculek's springs (Bang, Inc.) and tuned the trigger to 9.0 lbs dbl action and 3.0 lbs. single action (my personal preference). I shoot NOTHING but my own cast bullets (mostly an MP mold for the #68 H&G 200 gr SWC but also use an original H&G four cavity mold for the #130 195 gr SWC). I also have an NOE mold for their version of the Lyman 454424 bullet, a 250 gr Keith.
I also shoot the .45 Auto Rim case when I don't want to fool with moonclips. Here is THE moonclip tool - painless to operate but pricy:
BMT Equipped, Inc.
Watch the video for painless and QUICK moonclipping...
I use Ranch Products steel full moon clips for serious work. The Model 25 RIMZ Carbon Fiber/Polymer clips are the latest generation and are quite good and allow you to load and unload with your fingers and seem quite reliable. That's my current most used type...
Dale53
FWIW
Dale54
manyguns
Member
The reason to be careful about lightening the mainspring too much with moon clips is the cushion effect they provide to the firing pin strike. The variations in rim thickness & actual clip springiness can cause misfires. A strong spring prevents that problem. Also if the trigger return spring is too light you have a problem with the trigger not getting all the way forward when going fast. Instead of getting the hammer back all you get is the cylinder to turn.
Wow. A bunch of helpful info here. I hoping to go to the Tampa Gun show this weekend. I'll be looking for a 625. Used if I can find a reasonable one. Or new if I can find a reasonable one. I expect prices to be high, but I won't go too crazy. I might even bring something along to sell. Thanks again.
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