Factory repair - now heavy trigger pull

Wfevans4

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I had my Model 19 repaired by S&W due to spitting lead and another separate issue. Now, the trigger pull is noticeably heavier. It feels so tight and heavy. The repair paper says:

Cut forcing cone
Adjust main spring weight
Repair yoke
Replace firing pin

Will the action smooth out over time by simply firing it or do you think I should mess with the main spring weight? Or get a trigger job?
 
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Tight and heavy are not standard units of measure. They're an opinion. If you want to talk about trigger pull weight, first you will need to know the actual weight. Get a trigger pull gauge and give us some numbers. I'm sorry to be so crass.

Would you rather have a 357 that works every time with a 4 .5 pound trigger, or one with a 1.75 pound SA trigger?

There is a high probability that you 19 will get much smoother after thousands of dry firings.

Springs help a lot. Watch a few you tube vids. Smiths aren't hard to disassemble, and reassemble.
 
Did you purchase the M19 new or used? Had you performed any "adjustments" to it, like loosening the strain screw? If you bought it used the light-feeling action may have been from 1000's of rounds breaking it in, OR from someone putting a new spring kit in it.

Many of the "Reduced Spring Weight Kits" like those from Apex Tactical and TKcustoms include a lighter or smoother mainspring, a lighter rebound spring and a longer firing pin. I point this out because...

The repair paper says:

Cut forcing cone
*Adjust main spring weight*
Repair yoke
*Replace firing pin*
If they opened it up and saw non-original parts I believe they would replace them with new, S&W factory parts (with a much heavier pull weight). I don't know why they'd replace your firing pin if it wasn't broken, which leads me to this thought.
 
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You can reasonably expect that, if you send a gun in for service, they will return it to factory specs if nothing else to cover their own tush. Irritating, but not surprising. It is completely possible they replaced the rebound spring and trigger spring in it.
Yes, no doubt they brought your gun back to factory specs due to identifying aftermarket parts or a Bubba kitchen table smithing attempt. After all, guns are designed and expected to work properly when they leave the factory.
 
I bought it brand new when they released the no lock Model 19s again just months ago. It was all factory parts.
 
I bought it brand new when they released the no lock Model 19s again just months ago. It was all factory parts.
Thank you for clarifying that. That helps the forum know what you're dealing with.
I don't claim to be an expert, but if the gun was spitting lead since new then it's a factory warranty issue. The fact that it is noticeably harder trigger pull now....
I don't know who's at fault but I'd contact S&W again. Tell them it's not spitting lead anymore but has a very noticeably heavier pull and your not happy with the work performed.

Maybe they can just give you another brand new gun. ??? Good luck.
 
Again, "noticeably harder" is not a standard unit of measure of measure. And just because someone is not thrilled with new revolver (that I speculate isn't even broken in) they bought, doesn't give them the right to pester the warranty dept of S&W.
And if they Smith away new guns to everyone who asked for one, they'd soon be out of business.

There are guns that have real problems. S&W needs the time to concentrate on those, without being distracted by people who aren't happy with something trivial.
 
Again, "noticeably harder" is not a standard unit of measure of measure. And just because someone is not thrilled with new revolver (that I speculate isn't even broken in) they bought, doesn't give them the right to pester the warranty dept of S&W.
And if they, Smith away new guns to everyone who asked for one, they'd soon be out of business.

There are guns that have real problems. S&W needs the time to concentrate on those, without being distracted by people who aren't happy with something trivial.
 
Thank you for clarifying that. That helps the forum know what you're dealing with.
I don't claim to be an expert, but if the gun was spitting lead since new then it's a factory warranty issue. The fact that it is noticeably harder trigger pull now....
I don't know who's at fault but I'd contact S&W again. Tell them it's not spitting lead anymore but has a very noticeably heavier pull and your not happy with the work performed.

Maybe they can just give you another brand new gun. ??? Good luck.

For a subjectively heavy trigger likely at factory specs? LOL.
 
Having no history of the revolver, I would guess someone before you "improved" the trigger while they had it. Now, the factory folks have restored it to factory specs. You can probably lighten it up again if you like, but regardless of what you decide to do about it they probably did you a favor. Problems fixed and action reset to factory-new.
 
Again, "noticeably harder" is not a standard unit of measure of measure. And just because someone is not thrilled with new revolver (that I speculate isn't even broken in) they bought, doesn't give them the right to pester the warranty dept of S&W.
And if they Smith away new guns to everyone who asked for one, they'd soon be out of business.

There are guns that have real problems. S&W needs the time to concentrate on those, without being distracted by people who aren't happy with something trivial.
I can tell you this. The black spec that shot out the side of the revolver left a scar on my left arm after I dug it out. I think that's worth pestering their warranty department.
 
I can tell you this. The black spec that shot out the side of the revolver left a scar on my left arm after I dug it out. I think that's worth pestering their warranty department.
You did the right thing sending it back.
The trigger pull being harder when they returned it is subjective though, so maybe/probably it just needs to break in.
 
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I had my Model 19 repaired by S&W due to spitting lead and another separate issue. Now, the trigger pull is noticeably heavier. It feels so tight and heavy. The repair paper says:

Cut forcing cone
Adjust main spring weight
Repair yoke
Replace firing pin

Will the action smooth out over time by simply firing it or do you think I should mess with the main spring weight? Or get a trigger job?

Yes. You'll find that lots of people here do not actually read before they post.
"Spitting lead" indicates a timing issue and is definetely a factory warranty issue on a new gun (which you've explained yours is). You did the right thing sending it back.
The trigger pull being harder when they returned it is subjective though, so maybe/probably it just needs to break in.
Did you read the OP.

S&W cut the forcing cone. "Repair yoke" sounds like cylinder wasn't quite lined up with barrel.
I don't see where they corrected a timing issue.
 
Forgive me, I might have been presumptuous with "timing issue". I had a new-to-me L frame spitting lead to the man on my right. I replaced the cylinder with a new one and the problem stopped. I assumed the OP's lead spitting was a timing issue due to my own experience, and yes I glossed over the crane issue due to my own experience.

I'll go back and fix my post.
 
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I had my Model 19 repaired by S&W due to spitting lead and another separate issue. Now, the trigger pull is noticeably heavier. It feels so tight and heavy. The repair paper says:

Cut forcing cone
Adjust main spring weight
Repair yoke
Replace firing pin

Will the action smooth out over time by simply firing it or do you think I should mess with the main spring weight? Or get a trigger job?
At least you got an explanation of what was fixed.
I sent in a brand new 625 back because it was spitting lead. When it came back, the repair sheet said "Repaired," and that was it.
 
Some pulls are heavier than others. What causes that? 2/6 are very heavy. The other 4/6 I can live with.


You posted a section that said "repaired the yoke".

Given your 2/6 issue, something is misaligned in the cylinder asy, IMO. All chambers should have the same trigger pull. If not, something is out of whack. You need more whack.

As others have said, send it back with a detailed description of what it's doing.

Good luck!
 
Don't twist my words around.

I have no problem with you sending it in the first time because it was spitting lead. But since you brought that up, how does one catch a piece of lead in the left arm? I guess it can happen. But my left arm is way behind the cylinder gap when I shoot.
You weren't shooting steel targets at the time, were you?

I am referring to you not being satisfied with the trigger pull after you got the gun back, and you don't even know what weight the trigger pull is.

Again, just my opinion, but every serious shooter should have a good screwdriver set, a trigger pull gauge, and a chronograph.
 
Range trip today and absolutely no blow back. So at least I feel safe shooting it. When it was hitting my neck and arm, I was a little leery I was a few shots away from a real injury. Seems more accurate after they repaired it. The trigger pulls I learned I can live with after actually firing it. Hopefully, over time they will all evenly smooth out. Thanks everyone for the responses.
 
I had my Model 19 repaired by S&W due to spitting lead and another separate issue. Now, the trigger pull is noticeably heavier. It feels so tight and heavy. The repair paper says:

Cut forcing cone
Adjust main spring weight
Repair yoke
Replace firing pin

Will the action smooth out over time by simply firing it or do you think I should mess with the main spring weight? Or get a trigger job?
Your problem may be more complicated than you think. I have read where Smith has changed the innards of their guns to be "California compliant" which means if you drop the gun with the hammer cocked back in single action mode it will not go off. If this was the case with your gun a simple spring change may not do much to lighten the trigger and would do nothing to smooth it out either. If you can find a gunsmith to work on the trigger and change it the warranty will be void and you could end up in court if you dropped it and it went off because of a non-factory trigger job that modified it from its safe factory configuration. A smart lawyer would bankrupt you without even pausing to burp or fart.

If you can live with the single action pull I would do nothing to it and as far as the double action pull I would never use this in a real gunfight because you stand much more of a chance of missing and killing an innocent bystander if a precision shot is mandatory but on the other hand if the fight is like most fights you will be so close (arms length) even if the double action pull was way over 13lbs you probably would not miss anyway.

I personally have gotten so used to using a single action pull that when using a revolver or an auto I just thumb cock on the draw and the pistol is cocked before it even comes up to eye level. I find double action shooting completely useless and unnecessary for me personally and would not trust myself to use it in a panic situation either unless the fight was only at arms length or across the barroom table.

If both hands are free you can get a death grip on the handgun and cock it with the non-shooting hand as it comes up to eye level and if you are only able to use just one hand because of an injury thumbcocking on the draw is not as complex as one might think if you practice just a short time doing it and of course without any live ammo in the gun.

Your cheapest way out would just be to try and adjust the mainspring and be satisfied with the small decrease in trigger poundage. This way you did not alter the factory trigger pull and no lawyer could attack you for having a non-standard and dangerous altered trigger that could end up injuring or killing not only a bystander but you yourself as well.

Always remember to live in the "real world" not the fantasy world of the internet.
 
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There are several spring kits out there that are reasonably priced. Get one and do it yourself and have fun with it.
 
I had my Model 19 repaired by S&W due to spitting lead and another separate issue. Now, the trigger pull is noticeably heavier. It feels so tight and heavy. The repair paper says:

Cut forcing cone
Adjust main spring weight
Repair yoke
Replace firing pin

Will the action smooth out over time by simply firing it or do you think I should mess with the main spring weight? Or get a trigger job?
Smith and Wesson Performance Center has done several revolver action jobs for with very nice results. Cost is reasonable. See their website.
 
Your problem may be more complicated than you think. I have read where Smith has changed the innards of their guns to be "California compliant" which means if you drop the gun with the hammer cocked back in single action mode it will not go off. If this was the case with your gun a simple spring change may not do much to lighten the trigger and would do nothing to smooth it out either. If you can find a gunsmith to work on the trigger and change it the warranty will be void and you could end up in court if you dropped it and it went off because of a non-factory trigger job that modified it from its safe factory configuration. A smart lawyer would bankrupt you without even pausing to burp or fart.

If you can live with the single action pull I would do nothing to it and as far as the double action pull I would never use this in a real gunfight because you stand much more of a chance of missing and killing an innocent bystander if a precision shot is mandatory but on the other hand if the fight is like most fights you will be so close (arms length) even if the double action pull was way over 13lbs you probably would not miss anyway.

I personally have gotten so used to using a single action pull that when using a revolver or an auto I just thumb cock on the draw and the pistol is cocked before it even comes up to eye level. I find double action shooting completely useless and unnecessary for me personally and would not trust myself to use it in a panic situation either unless the fight was only at arms length or across the barroom table.

If both hands are free you can get a death grip on the handgun and cock it with the non-shooting hand as it comes up to eye level and if you are only able to use just one hand because of an injury thumbcocking on the draw is not as complex as one might think if you practice just a short time doing it and of course without any live ammo in the gun.

Your cheapest way out would just be to try and adjust the mainspring and be satisfied with the small decrease in trigger poundage. This way you did not alter the factory trigger pull and no lawyer could attack you for having a non-standard and dangerous altered trigger that could end up injuring or killing not only a bystander but you yourself as well.

Always remember to live in the "real world" not the fantasy world of the internet.

Your point and caution is well taken.

However, I think you over estimate the lawyer world and the risk involved. Winning the lottery is not something rational to spend time thinking about, it is so rare. Wrongful or negligent shootings are about that rare.

A lawyer involved in a shooting event is either a criminal case or some negligent shooting event. We do need to worry about prosecutors in the anti-gun states and cities, that is a real risk. Self defense is discouraged, especially with a gun.

The trigger pull issue is a very long way down the list of reasons to find "proximate cause" or solid reason to claim someone was injured because of that issue.

The only way that might occur is with the "too light" trigger pull. We hear that often with the Glocks and the 3.5 pound trigger instead of the 5.5 factory trigger. But in reality, it only comes up when the shooter claims the gun accidentally fired, or fired before they wanted it too because of the "hair trigger".

I have a 12 ounce trigger on a Peacemaker, I love it. I also know competitors that have 1 pound and 1.5 pound triggers on Glocks used in competition, they are wonderful. But we recommend against these very light ones because they "go off" too easy when moving around or maybe being emotionally out of control in a confrontation. Those guns used in a negligent or unintentional shooting would give the lawyer that opening to go after the big bucks you mentioned. But anything factory level is simply not likely. They have to go after you, as the shooter, not the gun.

You can make a case that any gun with a Wolff Spring kit in it is inherently dangerous, I grant you that. However. I am not aware of any case ever where that trigger weight was the cause of some big jury verdict. There are just too many other factors to get past.

Think about it. There has to be someone shot, that should not have been shot, which means the shooter was pointing a gun at or toward the victim. If there was a lawful reason to do that, then the case turns on whether the shooter was logical and reasonable or maybe there was an over penetration issue. An time you point a gun and launch a bullet you own it for a very long time. That makes a very good case for things like frangible ammo or perhaps the 410 pistols for defense, shuts down the threat, but not things a half block away.

So, from the lawyer standpoint, I came from 4 different law enforcement and military backgrounds using guns every day, then law school put me in the courtroom, unarmed, most of the time, I did carry armed as a prosecutor when under threat. From that perspective and spending my last 25 years or so of my work life, in courtrooms every day, I just have not seen any wrongful discharge cases. They are more common among cops, shooting too much and bullets going astray.

Plaintiff's lawyers are the group of lawyers given that name because they chase ambulances and work all of the personal injury cases. Usually trying to form class action cases against some product. The reason is only one case can make you a millionaire, sometimes many times over. In the plaintiff's lawyer groups, they are organizations and they publish the latest methods of "get rich quick" methods of creating these cases. Notice I said creating. They twist the facts a bit when they get before the jury. These organization publish these methods and trends. There is nothing out there in the lawyer world promoting light triggers as a method to launch some new cases and get rich quick. There is just not enough of those cases, to promote an interest.

My point is, I do not worry about a light trigger or even a Wolff Spring kit in a gun. No question, if you shoot someone accidentally and have a spring kit in your gun, that would be an issue. But it is so rare, I say just forget about the lawyers, so long as you can safely operate your gun.

Not to worry. And by the way, from my cop days in the 70s, I too cock my wheel guns on the draw. I have done so when bad guys had guns and the cocked model 65 in the face is what prevented someone from dying that night. It is the same as drawing my cowboy guns, gives me a precision shot the first round. Now carrying other guns it is not so common, but as you said, it works. And in self defense cases you normally only have one hand on the gun, accuracy is much better with the cocked gun that a double action pull of any type. I also think that is why people carry stricker fired guns, much easier to shoot with one hand.

FWIW
 
Anytime any firearm is repaired at S/W they will always return the firearm to factory specs. It is a liability issue to keep the corporate lawyers happy.
As a competition shooter my 686 was sent back due to a loose barrel after many thousands of rounds. I had turned the strain screw out 1 and 1/2 turns to lighten the double action trigger pull. When it was returned the screw was not only tight but thread locker tight. Was I ticked off, yes. Was it there problem, no. Was it my problem, yes! :)
 
On the new revolvers, Not only can they not go off,
Now, the hammer can't fall. That's why the flag apparatus is still in the No-Lock Smiths. Inertia, upon impact causes the flag to move, preventing the hammer from falling.

Colt's solution is the hooked hammer and trigger notches. Anyone who buys a new Colt, then tells you it has a crisp trigger pull has no idea.

W4…. Glad to hear it! You even shoot it better now! What a bargain! I re-read some of my own posts sometimes, and I come across more abrasive than I intend. Seriously, glad to hear it worked out.
 
I had my Model 19 repaired by S&W due to spitting lead and another separate issue. Now, the trigger pull is noticeably heavier. It feels so tight and heavy. The repair paper says:

Cut forcing cone
Adjust main spring weight
Repair yoke
Replace firing pin

Will the action smooth out over time by simply firing it or do you think I should mess with the main spring weight? Or get a trigger job?
There is a weight range for acceptability for revolvers and customer service repair techs are required to put that revolver within those specs anytime a gun comes in for service. When I worked for S&W I was also still shooting LE PPC matches and I convinced the factory to send a Tech to one of the regional matches like they did in the old days. Instead of sending a Performance Center guy they sent an experienced "fitter" to the match. While at the match these guys would traditionally do repairs for the competitors, like replacing hammer noses, timing etc. I knew probably 75% of the competitors and many came to me and thanked me for bringing back "the old days" when S&W did this on a regular basis. After the first couple of relays a couple of them came to me and told me that the tech had fixed their match revolvers but the trigger pulls were so heavy they could hardly shoot them. I went to the table where he was set up and happened to look in the trash can and it was full of old strain screws and rebound springs. I ask the tech what was going on and he said, "do you know that all of these guns have cut, modified springs and most are well below the minimum hammer lift weights? I've had to put them all back to factory specs and I'm running out of springs". I had to explain that most of these guys paid a lot of money to have those springs cut and that from that point on, all he was to do is repair the stated complaint. That's the diff between a gunsmith and a "fitter". He was doing what he was trained to do so when you send your gun to the factory, it's going to come back like a "new" gun.
 
I had turned the strain screw out 1 and 1/2 turns to lighten the double action trigger pull. When it was returned the screw was not only tight but thread locker tight. Was I ticked off, yes. Was it there problem, no. Was it my problem, yes! :)
Since the screw is to be fully tightened. They simply corrected a problem. File a few thousands off the screw until you get the results you want.
 
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