Difficulty Opening Cylinder: K Frame

[flundertaker]

New to me Model 53 no dash is giving me trouble opening the cylinder. Forgive me for not knowing all the proper nomenclature for the specific parts. When I push forward the cylinder release the cylinder is able to turn but its very difficult to swing out. Its like the tit or detent in the middle of the extractor star is too long and doesnt want to clear the recess in the recoil shield enough to allow the cylinder to swing out. I can push in the detent but the spring is very strong. While pushing the release forward, I
tapped the right side of the cylinder with a non marring rubber mallet and it did swing out but something is clearly not right. Suggestions?

 

[kbm6893]

New to me Model 53 no dash is giving me trouble opening the cylinder. Forgive me for not knowing all the proper nomenclature for the specific parts. When I push forward the cylinder release the cylinder is able to turn but its very difficult to swing out. Its like the tit or detent in the middle of the extractor star is too long and doesnt want to clear the recess in the recoil shield enough to allow the cylinder to swing out. I can push in the detent but the spring is very strong. While pushing the release forward, I
tapped the right side of the cylinder with a non marring rubber mallet and it did swing out but something is clearly not right. Suggestions?

Check to make sure the rod is tightly screwed in. They have left hand threads so left to tighten.

 

[armorer951]

Check for excessive end shake on the cylinder and yoke. Position of the yoke screw? (is the correct screw in the correct spot)
Extractor rod tight and properly fit?



Carter

 

[Vtgw938]

Slip something in between the locking bolt and the extractor rod end. The rod has probably loosened.

 

[flundertaker]

Thank you gentlemen! Exactly right. The rod was way loose. I snugged it down with some pliers and masking tape to not mar up the knurling and it’s functioning much better. I did measure the distance for the front of the cylinder to the barrel when the cylinder is held rearward and it’s .009”, is this within spec or does it need a shim?

 

[armorer951]

A shim on the yoke barrel will move the cylinder back the thickness of the shim. I believe your front gauge is within current specifications.

 

[stansdds]

Thank you gentlemen! Exactly right. The rod was way loose. I snugged it down with some pliers and masking tape to not mar up the knurling and it’s functioning much better. I did measure the distance for the front of the cylinder to the barrel when the cylinder is held rearward and it’s .009”, is this within spec or does it need a shim?

0.009" gap with the cylinder held to the rear is only 1/2 of the end shake equation. Also measure with the cylinder pushed forward, the difference between the two measurements is the end shake. 0.001"-0.002" is required for proper cylinder rotation, up to 0.006" is considered the limit of acceptable by S&W.

 

[DWalt]

0.009" gap with the cylinder held to the rear is only 1/2 of the end shake equation. Also measure with the cylinder pushed forward, the difference between the two measurements is the end shake. 0.001"-0.002" is required for proper cylinder rotation, up to 0.006" is considered the limit of acceptable by S&W.

You should put some empty cases in the chambers before measuring the B-C gap. 0.009” is loose but not terrible.