Dillon presses

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rockquarry

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Not wanting to sidetrack the current Dillon SBD, I'll ask a few question here regarding Dillon presses in general. It appears there are quite a few Dillon users on this forum.

If you loaded six or more different handgun cartridges, some using small primers and some large, what would be a good setup for the 550? Buy one press and multiple conversions? Or two presses, one set up for small primers and one for large?

How long does it take to convert everything over if you have one press and switch primer sizes?

I like the manual index feature of the 550, but would I miss out on the added speed of the 750? I don't think I would but I may have overlooked something. And the SBD, multiples of this press might also work.

I can't really justify a progressive at this time, but I might want one (or more) and I suppose that's justification in itself.
 
I have used most progressive presses out there at some point, either mine or someone else's. I started out on single stage, like most do. I now have 4 Dillon 550Bs, (now 550C). Three of them are set up for small primer, one for large. I had a Square Deal, but didn't like it at all. I've had the first 550 for over 30 years and collected the others along the way.

It takes about 10 minutes to change over from one primer size to the other. It's not difficult at all, just a matter of learning how the machine is set up. If changing from one caliber to another that has the same rim size, it takes about a minute, because all you're doing is trading the die blocks on top. If you have to change the top and bottom, about 10 minutes again.

I could have gone for the 650 (now 750) or the 1050 (now 1100), but I chose the simpler non auto index. I have probably loaded half a million rounds on these presses over the years and don't feel handicapped by the slightly slower manual index. It's much easier to work with when something gets fouled up than an auto index. I'm very mechanically inclined and can deal with all of them. I prefer simple for my own use.
 
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So, how difficult is it to learn to operate a Dillon?



I have a new 550B that has never been out of the box. They were all the rage at the time and it appears they still are the reigning champ of progressives in a reasonable price range. After reading tons of info about using them, which I should have done before buying, it just seemed to be too much trouble for a dyed - in - the wool single stage user to fathom. Now at 73 I don't know I could even operate it if I wanted to...
 
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I started with a Dillon 300, then left it behind when the 550 was introduced. I've upgraded mine as improvements came along; it's a "C" model but without grease zerk. Protocall Design calls out accurate time frames for primer and caliber changes.

I've loaded on Dillon 1000 and 1050's but do not wish to own one. Glad I did not buy a 650. If I were to load zillons of one caliber, I might consider a 750.

You note I mention a 300. To put it simply, you do not want a 300 if you will be using its primer function. It was introduced about 1983 and was obsolete the instant the 450 came out a couple years later.
 
jem102 said:
So, how difficult is it to learn to operate a Dillon?



I have a new 550B that has never been out of the box. They were all the rage at the time and it appears they still are the reigning champ of progressives in a reasonable price range. After reading tons of info about using them, which I should have done before buying, it just seemed to be too much trouble for a dyed - in - the wool single stage user to fathom. Now at 73 I don't know I could even operate it if I wanted to...
Click to expand...

To learn to operate a 550, you first treat it like a single stage, thus using only 1 of the 4 stations until you get the hang of it. A strong light for the powder drop and bullet seating stations is a sound idea. Dillon (and others) have how to use video's.

My 550 is factory spec except I've added a primer track bearing plate Dillon RL 550B/C Primer Track Bearing Plate W/Ball Bearing 95056442041 | eBay I consider this gadget a "MUST" addition.
 
The SDB is great for its intended purpose: cranking out pistol rounds at a rate, realistically speaking, of two to three hundred per hour. That can be pushed up a little if you have extra primer tubes loaded ahead of time. Changing from one primer size to another is uncomplicated and takes little time. Overall, I think the other Dillons are superior. But the Square Deal does have its place.
 
Love my 550B, had only one for years and swapped primer feed when needed. I found a deal on a whole setup earlier this year and have 2nd 550B. It is nice having one for large and small primers.

That being said. I would have never invested in 2nd 550B at new prices. Only bought because it was a smoking deal.

Rosewood
 
Great responses as I anticipated. Thank you all. I've had four progressives over many years but never a Dillon. I've never needed a progressive and haven't used one in a good while as my old '60s Texan turret still works well for handgun ammo. Just considering a Dillon at this point based on the level of satisfaction loyal users have.
 
You can definitely get by with just one 550 but having two has obvious advantages.

It’s also nice to have at least two powder dispenser assemblies so no need to swap out the large or small powder bar.

I also like having two die sets each for 357 and 44, so all I do is swap tool heads when switching from 38 to 357 or 44 special to magnum.
 
I’ve got two 550’s, one for small primers, the other for large. I’m very happy with my the setup.

I also have quick change connectors for the powder measure, as well as micrometer adjustments for the charge bars. I just have two powder measures, one with a large charge bar, the other with a small.

It makes swapping between cartridges very easy, and much cheaper than buying a dedicated powder measure for each cartridge.
 
afkirby said:
I’ve got two 550’s, one for small primers, the other for large. I’m very happy with my the setup.

I also have quick change connectors for the powder measure, as well as micrometer adjustments for the charge bars. I just have two powder measures, one with a large charge bar, the other with a small.

It makes swapping between cartridges very easy, and much cheaper than buying a dedicated powder measure for each cartridge.
Click to expand...

That makes much sense. Along the same lines are the settings for the measures repeatable or would you be better off having a dedicated measure for each cartridge you load for? I realize this would be another significant expense.
 
rockquarry said:
That makes much sense. Along the same lines are the settings for the measures repeatable or would you be better off having a dedicated measure for each cartridge you load for? I realize this would be another significant expense.
Click to expand...

I find the settings to be repeatable. I just throw a few charges to verify and get to it.
 
My first Dillon was a 450 that I picked up used for $150 with everything I needed to load 9mm. My second was a 550 that I bought used with automatic case feeder and a bunch of other extras. I keep it set up for small primer since that is what I load most. The 450 is now set up for large primer and .45 colt. I can quickly change it to .45 ACP or .44 Mag. when the need ever arises. The 450 came with two powder measures, but both have since broken the "ears" off and now I just transfer the one from the 550 back and forth. I should probably just order a new one.
 
I bought the then new Dillon 450 in 1984. In the 90's upgraded to the 550.

The 450/550 series will load from 32 S&W to 375 H&H lengths without any problems! I mixed & matched conversion parts to be able to load cartridges they don't make conversions for LIKE: 50-70 Gov't. and a bunch of metric military rifle cartridges.

I own 19 shell plates and about 37 powder funnels. The only things I can't load are 45 AR, French 8mm Lebel, and 8 x 52mm Siamese.

No other Dillon will load Magnum Lenth shells, like 8mm Rem Mag, 460 Weatherby Mag. and the other monsters, and yet go as small as 32 ACP. (No plate for 25 ACP)

When they went to the 550 with tool heads I always keep one or two heads for oddball loadings that don't stay that way permanently. I have 9 tool heads with permanently mounted dies. But I only have 4 case mouth powder measurers and the original 450 push bar powder drop.

The key to consistency of ammo is to get a rhythm and no interruptions!

For example on 45 ACP or 45 Colt. I load 10 primer tubes of WLP. have the can of WW 231 right by the press and 1000+ projectiles at hand. I have background music (Never TV or sports). I leave notice I'm not to be disturbed except for "Fire, Blood or Flood" emergencies! This is a two-hour loading marathon! When I'm through the 1000, It's time for a bathroom break or a meal and start again afterwards. I can do 5000 on a Saturday and I'm done with loading that round for about 6 months (unless my sons shoot up my ammo!)

Then move to the next cartridge.

When I first started, I had a full auto 9mm and loaded several 5000 round batches of 9mm over a few month period. Then I loaded a 20,000-round batch of 223 55gr Ball ammo. Large batches require large amounts of brass, It takes quite a while to accumulate 6000 or more 45 Colt brass or 10000 45 ACP brass, but in the long run, it is well worth it!

I use the same projectile on multiple cartridges: 45 ACP, 45 Colt, 45 Schofield (S&W), and 45 Special (Long Colt brass but ACP Length) and on 44's: 44 Mag, 44 Special, and 44 Russian. (44-40 is a smaller diameter but same weight) I buy bullets when I get a good price for around 50,000 bullets of one configuration.

Last idea on any progressive press: Buy all the cartridge conversions you think you will possibly need now! The price will only go up from here!
Look at "Families" of cartridge rims. (AKA Bolt Face), then you only need a new powder funnel to change to a related round (saving up to $75 now days) For example: 10mm, 40 S&W, 357 Sig, 7.62x39 Russian and 6.5 mmx54 Mannlicher and 6.5mmx52 Carcano, all use the same shell plate. Another group is: 45 Colt, 44-40, 44 mag., 44 Special, 44 Russian, 303 British and 444 Marlin (also included 460 S&W and 454 C.) (the 303 B. and 444 M. might need a thickness adjustment) I also use the same shell plate for 9mm Lugar, 9mm Largo, 9mm Styre, 9mm Browning Long, 380 ACP, 223 Rem and that whole family!

USE A PIECE OF MASKING TAPE AND LABEL WHAT CARTRIDGE AND POWDER CHARGE IS ON THE PRESS! Don't ask how I learned that the hard way!

Ivan
 
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afkirby said:
as well as micrometer adjustments for the charge bars. .
Click to expand...

Tell me more about this? How much, where can I find it. This has been one of my pet peeves about the Dillon power drop. Guess work to get it where it needs to be.

Thanks,

Rosewood
 
The only knock against the SDB is it's current cost. Your thought about multiple dedicated SDBs could get pretty expensive, versus 1 or 2 presses that you swap calibers on. I remember back when they came out in the 80s the introductory price was $135, which was cheap even for the time.

Just my opinion
 
Patrick L said:
The only knock against the SDB is it's current cost. Your thought about multiple dedicated SDBs could get pretty expensive, versus 1 or 2 presses that you swap calibers on. I remember back when they came out in the 80s the introductory price was $135, which was cheap even for the time.

Just my opinion
Click to expand...

You're right. They have gone up a lot.
 
Money is not a problem for me anymore, but I still want the best bang for my buck. I inherited a 550, but I load for several different calibers. I bought 3 die plates, and set up one for 9mm and another for .223. the third one is my float and just has a powder die in it. I also have two powder measures. One for rifle and one for pistol. If I want to load .45ACP, I can quickly set up the float die plate with .45 dies and the pistol powder measure. I can do the same thing for .308 Winchester. The press comes with both large and small primer posts, and is pretty simple to change. This gives me the most flexibility without sinking a bunch of money into caliber dedicated die plates and powder measures. Good luck whatever you choose!
 
I started with a 450, then added another 450. The 450 does not have the removable toolhead so a caliber change also involved swapping out each die one at a time. I used one 450 for small primers and one for large. I also had an RCBS Green Machine set up for .38 Special. But this was at a point in life when I had little time.

I got rid of the RCBS Green Machine. It was very finicky. Fast,but when something went wrong it went very wrong. Plus the primer magazine was right at your breast plate.

I converted one of the 450's to a 550 frame and found I didn't really need two so I sold one 450 and even sold the stripped 450 frame I had leftover from the conversion. I've added nothing else to the conversion. I even still use the manual primer feed from the 450.

It's fast enough. To change from small to large primer takes maybe 5 minutes. Loosen a set screw and replace the primer punch and cup. Unscrew the primer magazine shield and swap feed tubes and replace the shield. That's it.

A caliber change takes a shell plate and a toolhead. Raise the ram , loosen the setscrew, undo the center bolt and remove the shell plate. Replace. Pull two pins and swap the toolhead. You can do a caliber and primer size change in 15 minutes max.

My realistic run-rate is a bit over 300 rounds an hour. On a rainy Sunday morning I'll knock out 1,000 rounds and break for lunch. I only shoot 4,000-5,000 rounds a year so it's all I need.

I can load .380, 9mm Makarov, 9mm Luger, .38/.357, .45 Auto, and .41 Magnum. I'm a couple of toolheads short of being able to do them all on the Dillon. I have the shell plates. I usually use my single stage for .380 and 9mm Makarov because I don't shoot them much.

Really it's about matching your equipment to your needs. If you're not having a problem, don't fix it.

With speed comes complexity, and it has diminishing returns. You get to the point where you're adding more complexity with very little return in speed. From a Lee Loader to a Dillon 1100 they can all produce equally accurate ammo. Only the production speed changes.
 
jem102 said:
So, how difficult is it to learn to operate a Dillon?



I have a new 550B that has never been out of the box. They were all the rage at the time and it appears they still are the reigning champ of progressives in a reasonable price range. After reading tons of info about using them, which I should have done before buying, it just seemed to be too much trouble for a dyed - in - the wool single stage user to fathom. Now at 73 I don't know I could even operate it if I wanted to...
Click to expand...

Iffen you ever try it......You single stage will gather cobwebs.
 
I have 2 550s and 2 Lyman T2s. I also use Dillon 450/550 measures on the T2s. [ .45colt, .455, 45schofield, lots of 45acp, a little 38spcl ]I enjoy using either brand. I also run a Bair Kodiak single stage for my 30 cal rifle reloading. Either move the work to the tool [dillon] or the tool to the work [lyman turret] either way you end up with a complete load.
 
I too use two 550 presses. One vintage 1988 for LP and one 1994 for SP.
I started with an RCBS Rockchucker. My first progressive press was a Posiness Warren P-200 Metallic. It had removable die heads that would hold 2 calibers. It used std RCBS shell holders, priming was still one at a time.
They used a swinging shell holder to move from die to die. It really took you thru all the single stage steps and you had a completed round in your hand when done. Today's turrent presses allow you to do the same thing. But I digress, this is about Dillon 550's
I do all the things the previous posters have mentioned. I have a great selection of shell plates, Brass Buttons and powder funnels. Just install the combination that works for the caliber you are loading. I only have 2 powder throws, but I have many labeled powder bars already pre-adjusted. I swap in what I need, check the throw and I am good to go.
The 550's are the most versatile of all the Dillon Presses.
The only issues I have had in 36 years of running the is a broken bell crank (part between the handle and the ram), when it cracks you get high primers that cause miss fires. Dillon's warranty has replaced 5 of them for me. This was at the point I was shooting 50-60 thousand rounds a year.
 
The Dillon 550 is the most versatile Dillon press as it can be used for handgun cartridges as well as for rifle rounds up to and including magnum rounds.

As a manually indexed press it can be operated as a single stage press, as a turret press or as a progressive.

It can be used with a Dillon powder measure, with a manually operated measure using the 3/4” adapter or with an off press powder measure.

The Dillon measures are more accurate if you invest in xtra small and extra large power change bars as well as the standard large and small, and then use the smallest charge bar that will accommodate the load. Also adjust the charge bar so that you are always making the final adjustment by moving the bar in so it’s being pushed in by the adjustment screw so it won’t have any slack in the thread.

Changing the primer system for small to large takes 5-10 minutes depending on how often you do it.

I have 9 tool heads with powder measures attached sitting on stands ready to go with the does and powder measures adjusted for my most common loads (.38-55, .308 Win. .45 ACP, 9mm, .380 ACP, .357 Mag, .38 Special and .32 ACP) with one powder measure in reserve to put on whatever tool head with a less used cartridge that I want to reload (.45-70, .30-06, .243 Win, .223 Rem, .22 Hornet, .45 Colt, 7.62 Nagant, and .30 carbine).

I load precision rifle rounds on Whidden floating tool heads and run out on the completed rounds is normally around .001” or less. I correct any that exceed .0015”.
 
rockquarry said:
That makes much sense. Along the same lines are the settings for the measures repeatable or would you be better off having a dedicated measure for each cartridge you load for? I realize this would be another significant expense.
Click to expand...

Impractical to own a bunch of pre-set measures. I have dozens of good loads, using dozens of powders, developed over the years.

By whatever shortcut measure one uses, to return a Dillon powder measure to a previous grain drop of a particular powder, there is no substitute for checking the charge dropped with an accurate, calibrated scale*.

My particular "cheat" method to return is to measure the bar opening after removing the previous powder back into its container. I understand fully that a return to that setting is an approximation and that I must throw 10 or more powder charges, out of a full and powder-settled measure, before I weigh the 10. That number, divided by 10, better be my desired powder weight. Next I double confirm in my manual or loading notes that is the desired powder weight.

*There is no sense trying to take the "cheat" by itself as definitive; the risks are too high.
 
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