Dillon Square Deal B issues

[Kiwi cop]

After some 2 1/2 years and approx 5,000 loaded .45ACP rounds, my Dillon Square Deal B has developed two issues that are driving me to distraction.

Firstly the primer arm will not return forward all the time. I have stripped the primer system down, given it a good clean and installed a new return spring, still about every third time the primer arm sticks about half way forward.

Also, the shell plate bolt keeps tightening up about every 25-30 rounds, to the point that the shell plate will not auto advance. Having to stop, clear the shell plate and then loosen the bolt with an allen key is getting tiresome.

I have removed the press from my bench and checked the bolt at the rear of the press (which us usually hidden by the edge of my bench). It was tight but I loosened it to the point when the auto index ceased to operate then tightened it up again. It has reached the point where I am contemplating seeing if a little judicial application of blue loctite on the bolt will prevent it tightening, but before doing that thought I'd see if anyone here has some solutions?

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

Good Morning, Evening or whatever day it is there!

I have no knowledge of the Square Deal B presses, I'm a 550 guy. I do know the Dillon customer service is great. Even if you bought the press used it is still covered by their warranty.

Because of time difference your best bet will be an E-mail instead of a middle of the night overseas toll call!

Over the decades I've had a number of small springs "Give-out" and lose their "springiness". I don't know about your import permits on a factory parts kit, but the one for the 550 has kept me running when I broke or lost something in the middle of the night, and I had a match tomorrow or the day after.

email address: dillonprecision.com
US toll free number 800-223-4570

wish I could give you more.

Ivan

 

[max503]

They've always got on the phone and walked me through any problem. Any chance you can call them? (I've only had to do it once or twice in 30 years.)

 

[socal s&w]

Hello!
Your primer problem might be that the top knurled threaded 'cap' is too tight and forcing the plastic end too far down, or the plastic end is misshapen and isn't functioning properly. A replacement may be in order?
The shell plate hold-down screw, should have some grease on the shoulder of the step and under the top to allow the plate to move easily without unthreading. It also may be binding if the ball bearing, or the spring that holds it up, is missing or damaged. This is the indexing ball bearing that is under the shell plate towards the front of the machine.
While you have the shell plate in hand, you should put a very light coating of grease where you see the worn area in line with the ball bearing to keep it running smoothly across the bottom of the plate.
Something to try/check anyway.

 

[Skeet 028]

Is there a set screw(brass?) that you tighten up on the bolt to keep it from tightening or loosening? I am pretty certain the 550 has one. 750 too??

 

[TM44]

My Xl750 definitely has a locking set screw that keeps the shell plate bolt from moving. It has a brass tip as to not damage the threads on the bolt. OP are you sure you don't have something similar? ***Edit: Apparently the SBD doesn't use a set screw. The manual just says to tighten the bolt snugly. It would seem that should not bind the shell plate. It does mention be sure the wire bail isn't dragging on the plate. I'd email Dillon and see what they suggest.

 

[dillonhelp]

The Square Deal B does not use a set screw to secure the position of the shellplate bolt. The SDB shellplate bolt just screws down until it stops. If the shellplate is binding, look for a burr or debris that is preventing the shellplate from turning.
Regarding the primer slide, it sounds like a burr or rough spot on the white delrin primer slide bearing. Remove the primer feed from the machine. Push the primer slide in by hand. Does it push in easily, and come out smoothly? Another possibility is that the cup and punch on the end of the primer slide are too tall. Refer to the manual for the correct height of these parts in the primer slide.

 

[Kp321]

I realize shipping would be very expensive, but Dillon will totally rebuild your machine if returned to them.
Otherwise, the suggestion to loosen the knurled hold down on the primer tube might fix that issue.
Two ways to approach the tight plate if a good cleaning does not help. A set screw could be added like the bigger machines have. This would involve drilling and tapping the housing. Since the hold down screw is supposed to be tightened, maybe a shim on the bolt shoulder would give some clearance.

 

[Kiwi cop]

The official Dillon verdict

So I have received a reply from Dillon on my query. The verdict is that both issues are maintenance related.

Spilled powder can bind the shell plate. I removed the shell plate and sure enough there was a buildup of “crud” (spilled powder mixed with the smear of grease I had earlier applied?) on the bottom of the plate. I cleaned it off and brushed out the light coat of spilled powder under the plate. Unfortunately I ended up dropping the detent ball and couldn’t find it again . A maintenance kit arrived from a Kiwi supplier yesterday, the day after I ordered it online, but I will visit an engineering supply today to pick up a couple of more balls as spares. (I looked at getting a 3 pack of Derlin balls, but they don’t ship here. (Incidentally, while trying to find the ball size online I ran across a fix to reduce the spilled powder, clip 2/3 of a coil off the detent ball spring to eliminate the “snap” that sometimes occurs. With a spare spring I will try this too).

I also found another fix online. Blue locktight applied lightly to the bolt and allowed to dry. Apparently it tightens up the threads preventing the bolt turning down under use.

As for the primer arm, some good suggestions above, and once more Dillon suggest cleaning it out.

The primer feed tube knob is turned down until it is “snug” but not tightened. The red plastic tip is starting to get a little out of shape, they don’t seem to last too long. I recall reading somewhere about a brass one? I usually remove the primer magazine when reloading ammo I have stripped down to components (primed brass, powder and projectiles) after changing loads to reduce any wear caused by running the press without primers in the tube to reduce damage.

I did pull the priming arm out and clean it a few weeks ago, but maybe not enough. I will get to this over the weekend and make sure that I get right inside the housing. The primer arm has been reduced to the minimum height to reduce damage to the tip, but I’ll recheck the height. I’m also thinking of a bit of powdered graphite as a lubricant instead of the dry lubricant I occasionally apply.