No disrespect intended, but I shoot eleventy bugjillion rounds with my stainless revolvers, then give them a brass brushing with solvent. They look like new. However, I do clean my blued revolvers every half eleventy bugjillion rounds. Mine are tools, not jewels. My tools are shiny after cleaning!With the couple of stainless revolvers I have (S&W 65-5 and 638-3) I have avoided using strong solvents to clean after shooting. I think Hoppes and other strongel solvents tend to leave the finish dark, especially on the front of the cylinder and around the forcing cone/barrel. Now I'm using Ballistol and water or Break Free CLP and it seems to help between range sessions.
I hear you. The biggest discussion we can all get into is how to clean guns and everybody has their own method. The one stainless revolver in which I have expended thousands of rounds of .38 Special, the 65-5, is a bear to keep clean, especially with the front of the cylinder and forcing cone. But you know, like you said, the guns are tools and it would seem that I'm giving it the best care I can with the tools I have. Sounds like you are doing the same.No disrespect intended, but I shoot eleventy bugjillion rounds with my stainless revolvers, then give them a brass brushing with solvent. They look like new. However, I do clean my blued revolvers every half eleventy bugjillion rounds. Mine are tools, not jewels. My tools are shiny after cleaning!
Plenty, but never nickel plated.That looks perfectly normal. You shoot guns they get dirty! Why the question, did you think there is something wrong with that gun because it is dirty? Haven't you ever shot a revolver before?
It also depends a a lot on what ammo is shot.Thanks for all your comments,
Many seem to think that is a stainless revolver but it is a 1953 S&W 357 with a nickel re-finish.
I guess the soot just shows more.