Disabling Internal Locks

[Colonel Dan]

I have a 642 and a 686 with internal locks that I got at a super price—otherwise I would have gotten those same models without the lock.

I want to disable those locks because like everyone on this forum, I’ve also heard the lock up horror stories. I’ve heard of two ways to do it and I would like some ideas on which way I should go.

1. Remove the flag completely

2. Leave the flag in place but file down the nub on the hammer side of the flag so it can't engage the hammer

Seems to me Option #1 is the more fool proof approach but would there be some side effects or unintended consequences that I'm overlooking?


Thanks for the help.

 

[SW357Addict]

The easiest method would be to use a Dremel tool and file down the lug on the flag to that no matter what, it cannot lock.

 

[xrmattaz]

It takes more effort to Dremel the stud on the flag than it does to simply pull the flag out, which I did on three of my S&W revolvers.

The remainder of the lockwork is intact, and in spite of my best efforts to shoot it loose, etc....the lock is still there. And the flag is unmolested, in a little baggie in the gun's case, in case I ever sell the firearm.

 

[Rule3]

Is that all that is needed, take the flag out?? The piece that is right on top when the side plate is removed?

 

[akr]

Do not molest that flag.

 

[USAF385]

Remove the flag, it's simple. I've removed the locks from 3 different 642s, it's a piece of cake. It takes less than 10 minutes.

YouTube - S&W Internal Lock Removal

The inside is just like the 642.

 

[Rule3]

Remove the flag, it's simple. I've removed the locks from 3 different 642s, it's a piece of cake. It takes less than 10 minutes.

YouTube - S&W Internal Lock Removal

The inside is just like the 642.

Excellent. Thanks for the link. Very good video.

 

[cmort666]

Anybody know who the artist in the background music was?

 

[Colonel Dan]

Thanks for the advice folks.

I just finished the project. I fully removed the flag from my 642 and test fired it...believe it or not, she works!

Thanks again for the sound guidance. I very much appreciate it.

I'll tackle the 686 tomorrow....

 

[davel686]

way to go dan, you now have a completely reliable and safe gun.
I watched the same video some time back and did the same thing to my M66-6 2-1/2" and thru the flag/locklug in the parts box.
I know carry my M66 every day with out worry.

 

[NE450No2]

I would prefer to take ALL the IL parts out.

Then there is NO WAY you can have any problems.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

If everything is out, then nothing can jam, but dirt/dust will find it's way under the cover.

The video doesn't show how to completely remove the parts.

Here are my notes:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html

handejector will get this up on a sticky soon.

 

[Rule3]

500 Magnum,

Thanks for the link to the FAQ, lots of very helpful info there.
I have two 642's one with lock one without. I think it's time to attack the lock.

 

[Nick B]

Just a quick question. When you remove the part doesn't it leave an open hole in the side ?

 

[akr]

It does, but you aren't cool unless you want to remove the lock.

 

[Rule3]

It does, but you aren't cool unless you want to remove the lock.

How have your two posts on this subject helped anyone??

Some folks are trying to learn about doing this lock removal and have posted a legitimate question.

I too would like to know about the "hole" I have read some that have actually installed a small screw and ground down the head. That seems a bit involved. I was thinking of perhaps some gray epoxy putty.

 

[shadowrider]

I just filed the "post" down on my 442. I wasn't willing to leave the hole open since I pocket carry a lot. I alway use a pocket holster but it would still be a lint magnet IMO.

 

[Colonel Dan]

I chose to remove the flag totally and leave the turning knob in place for 2 reasons:

1. If I ever sell this gun, I'll be able to reinstall a fully functional lock that is unmolsted/unfiled or give it to the new owner and he can do whatever. If I filed it down, a new flag would have to be purchased to return the gun to factory specs.

2. Since mine is a 642 i.e. hammerless, there is no gap in the frame as there would be with a hammered gun when the flag is removed and with the knob still in place, there's no increased danger of dirt getting into the internals.

Given what I've been able to read, the knob will remain in place with little chance of falling out.

That's my story....

 

[Rule3]

I chose to remove the flag totally and leave the turning knob in place for 2 reasons:

1. If I ever sell this gun, I'll be able to reinstall a fully functional lock that is unmolsted/unfiled or give it to the new owner and he can do whatever. If I filed it down, a new flag would have to be purchased to return the gun to factory specs.

2. Since mine is a 642 i.e. hammerless, there is no gap in the frame as there would be with a hammered gun when the flag is removed and with the knob still in place, there's no increaed danger of dirt getting into the internals.

Given what I've been able to read, the knob will remain in place with little chance of falling out.

That's my story....

That sounds like the best idea to me. I'll have to see when I get in there. So the whole knob that the key attaches to is not part of the lock assembly itself? Must be screwed in or force fit??

 

[davel686]

Removing the flag/lug plate does not loosen any of the works up and only leaves a very narrow slot open on the left side of the hammer.
once you have removed it, you can hardly tell its missing looks wise and its best to leave the key lock mechanism in the gun to plug the hole on the side.
once the plate is removed, the rest of the IL system becomes redundant and will not interfere with the rest of the internals.