disassembly .. idiot scratch , & guide rod info

[rock n roll kid]

in the next few days , when work gets slack & the rain stays away for a day or 2 , i will fire , for the first time , my new pc s&w 45 acp.

simply DO NOT want to put that dumb mark on my gun ! yes , i will admit i have been guilty of doing so in the past .... as a number of others i am sure have also done .
give me ur best expertise/method of a " clean " take down. i will wakl the line to avoid this silly mistake.

ALSO i know this gun has the full length guide rod . am thinking of replacing this with a standard length one . is there any real & justified ! , reason NOT to put in the standard length rod ? ! will i lose some " preformance edge " by ditching the full length rod ? simply do not like the complicated take down that the full length one presents .
your enlightenment greatly appreciated

 

[824tsv]

I can't help you with the guide rod, but I have experience with avoiding the "idiot scratch". I cut a laminated card (an old video store members card) to fit in the notch between the stocks and around the cut out for the slide release. The card is thin enough to make reassembly easy and thick enough to prevent a possible scratch. Works like a charm every time.

 

[Big Cholla]

It is Technique!

The 1911 idiot scratch can be avoided by using the proper technique when re-installing the slide stop. Place the handgun on a bench pad with the muzzle end pointed towards your left. Insert the slide stop almost home and place the bevel end on the spring lock stud and very slightly lower than the 'going home' position. With both thumbs push down and away from you on a 45deg. angle. The beveled end of the slide stop will depress the lock stud and the slide stop will follow the hole into the home position. It will NOT put a scratch on anything. You don't need any fancy cards or tools, just the proper technique. ..................... Big Cholla

 

[arjay]

Avoiding the scratch is all about feel and really hard to explain.Put a piece of duct tape on there until you are sure you can do it without slipping.

 

[MichiganScott]

I use masking tape. I've tried every method to get the slide stop to just snap in place, but they sometimes just get away from you and scratch the frame, particularly if it's slippery with oil. Luckily, you can usually buff it off stainless steel.

I don't use full length guide rods on my 1911's. The tunnel that the spring rides in is tight enough that the spring really can't bind other than a little friction from tool marks.

Most Novak style sights do not have a large enough lip on the front to easily cock the pistol one handed if needed. If you remove the full length guide rod, you can push-cock the pistol one handed. Push-cocking a 1911 is much easier than using the lip on a sight anyway.

 

[rock n roll kid]

great info ...

on the slide stop procedure .

...... anyone else on the the full length guide opinion ? !

 

[arjay]

I really can't tell any difference in performance or accuracy between my gun that has one and my guns that don't.It does make assembly and disassembly a little bit trickier.

 

[wproct]

As far as the slide stop installation, I use the technique exactly as described by Big Cholla. I do not like full length guide rods. If I purchase a pistol that has one installed, I always change it back to the short one.

 

[eveled]

I push the lever out straight, rather than pivot it. I removed the FLGR on my 1911pd w/ wilson parts. No problems yet, and trimmed about an ounce and a half of weight. A no brainer imho. ED

 

[rock n roll kid]

the full lgth. guide rod....

glanced thru the inst. manual that s&w provided with the gun . procedure didnt look a whole lot different than a standard lgth. rod. but it did picture using the barrel bushing wrench that is provided .... is that a key to break down on the full length guide rod ?
recall someone using a paper clip ? in the dissambly but cant recall just what was said or demonstrated

 

[WhitleyStu]

There is no reason to have the spring under pressure when reassembling the gun (inserting the slide stop). I leave the thumb safety slightly out and the spring/plunger extending out behind it. The slide stop will drop in easily since there is no spring pressure on it. Then go in behind the thumb safety and compress the spring and push the safety all the way back against the frame.

 

[tomfrey]

I dont find it a big hassle to have a full length guide rod and it is nice to be able to take off the upper without springs flying but I never saw any distinct advantage in having a full length rod- I understand the theory behind it, but have shot enough of both types to say I dont see any difference.

 

[AveragEd]

My 1911s all have full-length rods and I have no problem with them. I figure that if "better" gunmakers use them instead of the other types, there probably is a good reason.

As far as the slide stop release installation, I think you'll find no concerns with your S&W 1911. I have two Kimbers that are absolute bears to get the stop back in place. One of them got scratched so I use a card-like piece of plastic on them but the stops on my two S&Ws pop right in with no drama.

I have found that aftermarket slide stops will not work in S&W 1911s - the slide is locked in place as soon as you insert the stop. I like extended ones due to arthritis in my fingers but S&W confirmed that their guns won't function anything but their part. I'm going to have a gunsmith look at the two parts and see if the Wilson extended stops can be altered to work.

Ed

 

[MichiganScott]

I figure that if "better" gunmakers use them instead of the other types, there probably is a good reason.

"Better" gunmakers use them because their customers demand them on the premise that they make the pistol both more accurate and reliable.

Neither premise has ever been proven to be true.