Do I have a Problem?!! Flame cutting? Worse? Help!

[andyo5]

It is NOT flame cutting and it is not a problem.
You have a normal .22 revolver. Scrape the lead off with a brass scraper or even a stout toothpick and clean the residue up with Hoppe's or whatever bore cleaner you are using.
Relax.
Breathe in, breathe out.

 

[DAinTX]

Agree with several others. Your not going to get any appreciable 'flame cutting' with a puny .22LR. It's powder residue, probably with a little lead and grease. Scrub it off...the gun's fine.

 

[Delos]

You bought it new?

You bought it new, and have only fired 100 rounds......?

If it had never been fired before, then first oil a cutip (cotton swab) and wipe it across. If any of it is powder simple gun oil will emulsify it and remove it quickly.

Do not srape it with steel screwdriver or such. Us a softer metal to scrape a harder metal. The recomendation to flatten a 22 shell was good.

If it is lead you need to check the timing and lockup. When it is empty work the action lowering the hammer gently. Does the cylinder lock up with each pull of the trigger, on every chamber? Look carefully at the cylinder gap to barrel. If it is locking up fine then check the gap between cylinder and barrel with a feeler gauge (that they use to check valves in cars - buy at auto parts store).

Basically if I was you I would put copper plated 22 shells in it and see if you get any copper in there.

I would unscientifically hold a piece of paper beside it (not your hand) when fireing it.

Then I would check with the gunsmith site here (scrolling down on Forum site).

(I would not be conerned if it is not spitting lead sideways, and does not spit copper up on the top strap. But I am not a gunsmith).

In other words try normal .22 - 40 grain bullets, preferably copper dipped or plated. If you have been shooting hot lightweight bullets then this might be normal? I have never shot any of them. This is a good site to get more input.

I just bought this S&W Model 43C .22lr last weekend. New. Two trips to the range and only 100 rounds through it and this is what's happening! I cleaned the gun before and after.

I have heard of flame cutting the top strap but this looks far beyond anything I have seen. Ran only high quality CCI rounds. We are only talking about .22 here!

Does this look normal? Any help greatly appreciated!

 

[Delos]

So far I like the advice about scraping it with a 22 shell.

I like the advice about opening the cylinder and sticking a 22 cartridge in the barrel forcing cone to see it goes all the way to the shell.

when scraping off lead you want to use a metal softer than steel and harder than lead. It is why brass bore brushes are used to remove lead from barrel.

I would never use any grinding compounds.

 

[Jayhawkhuntclub]

Do not srape it with steel screwdriver or such. Us a softer metal to scrape a harder metal. The recomendation to flatten a 22 shell was good.

Why not use a screwdriver? Does a 43 have an alumninum frame? It's not like you're scraping the bore. I'm just curious as I've heard this before. But I've never came up with any good reason why a small screwdriver wouldn't work just fine. In fact, I've done in more than once. Never found issues with it. Not wanting an argument; I'm just curious. Thanks.

 

[5Wire]

Sometimes top strap scratches near the forcing cone are left by the edge of a worker's file dressing the end.

 

[kaaskop49]

Let me add to my earlier post that those folks talking about the forcing cone being improperly cut may have the deeper answer. My 317 was spitting so much that it was singe-ing my hand. My 'smith deepened the cone properly and the spitting stopped.
We've all ID'd the lead issue on the top strap. I would have the forcing cone checked by a 'smith or sent back to S&W if change-of-ammo doesn't help and excess leading continues.

 

[Jayhawkhuntclub]

This type of leading is common with Smith 22s. My 617 does it, but shoots 1.5" 20 yard groups. I don't plan to lose any sleep over it. Assuming it functions well and has good accuracy, I would just carry on if I were the OP.

 

[Delos]

Why not use a screwdriver? Does a 43 have an alumninum frame? It's not like you're scraping the bore. I'm just curious as I've heard this before. But I've never came up with any good reason why a small screwdriver wouldn't work just fine. In fact, I've done in more than once. Never found issues with it. Not wanting an argument; I'm just curious. Thanks.

Hard rocks or metals scratch softer rocks or metals.

With steel the hardness is determined by the carbon content of the steel and how it was heated and quenched (tempered). Long ago I recall reading about quenching in water or oil. Different temperatures give different results. I am not into metallurgy - just have read a few basics.

Someone engraving a pistol needs a very sharp and very hard and very small bladed chisel. Hack saws have very hard teeth often carbide perhaps.

Geologists have a test kit for determining what the hardness of the sample is. Harder rocks always scratch softer rocks. Armature geologists toss together cheap items (I have forgotten) known soft rocks, copper coin, nail, broken window glass, pocket knife, file, whatever.
Hardness Collection with Test Kit - Amateur Geologist, Inc

Screwdrivers are pretty hard. You might notice that they often damage screws, not screws damaging screwdrivers.

I would never scrape a gun with anything except brass. (Copper often leaves a mark of copper on the steel). You can check the surface hardness of a knife blade by which knife blade will scratch the other. I first use the point of one against the side of the others blade. Then the edge to edge near the handle to see which will put a notch in the other. It is very easy to over sharpen a knife blade past the surface hardness. A good axe has a very hard center sandwiched between softer steels. You can always sharpen a good axe, as long as you do not overheat it on motor grinder or whatever belt.

You could check soft annealed steel or iron by taking the grips off your gun and scratching somewhere not obvious. Try heating a cheap screwdriver and letting it cool slowly perhaps? It is possible you might find the perfect lead scraper?

Longer subject than what most want to read about.

 

[Jayhawkhuntclub]

Delos: I appreciate your input. I guess I just don't care if I were to get a scratch on the bottom of the topstrap of a working pistol. I don't see it as making a difference. I might feel differently if I were into collector grade guns. But I'm not into guns I can't shoot and I don't care about scratches that don't show (of impact on function).

 

[Delos]

The future is what it is

Delos: I appreciate your input. I guess I just don't care if I were to get a scratch on the bottom of the topstrap of a working pistol. I don't see it as making a difference. I might feel differently if I were into collector grade guns. But I'm not into guns I can't shoot and I don't care about scratches that don't show (of impact on function).

And when one of your grandkids inherits that nice revolver he might think bad thoughts.

Yup, grandpa just did not care about scratches. Could not just leave the lead buildup alone. He cost me a lot of money on that gun. You have any idea what I could have sold it for.

 

[FloridaFlier]

On a personal note, I don't even like to think of scratching my revolvers. A thin brass brush will do the job, especially with any of a dozen lead remover products available from all the better gun shops.
S&W revolvers all have a finish on them. Scratch the finish, and the scratch becomes the collection point for grit and possibly even rust.
There are people who can and do successfully use hardened steel tools on their guns. I'm just not one of them. From your original post, it sounds like you're not either.
Your gun is not just a tool, it's art. Treat it gently, and it will last forever.

 

[jdh]

The 43C Says AirLite on the side plate. Does that answer the question about what the frame is made of?

 

[Invictus357]

Some guys use a shoelace like floss.

I had never even considered a shoelace to floss around the forcing cone.

What a great idea.

Thanks

 

[Warren Sear]

Just make a scraper from a fired cartridge case that has been flattened and then some Hoppe's and a brush.

Don't even think of using any kind of abrasive or polish! What are some of you guys thinking, anyway???

NO STEEL WOOL EITHER! EVER!!!

 

[relic]

Pipe cleaners with the included plastic bristles also work well.

 

[ralph7]

A Dremel tool with a pumice bit will take that right off. You may have to run it up and down the bore, too, since it's probably in the same conditon. Then get some .22 shotshells and you'll be good to go.

Do What???

 

[Harry58]

Normally, I only use Hoppes #9. But this morning, I spent a couple of hours cleaning my 63 with lead solvent. Scraped off the bulk of the deoposits on the top strap with a brass 9 mm casing. Then, used lead solvent with a bronze brush. It cleaned up well. Also, cleaned the bore with lead solvent & a bronze bore brush, then patches. Had to repeat this procedure several times to remove all leading. Did the same procedure on the charge holes, but used a .243 bore brush for this.

 

[cyberiad]

They were expensive but I bought a set of brass picks specifically to clean around the forcing cone and other areas. Scratches don't bother me as the revolver gets used over time but I don't like the idea of scratching it on purpose if I can avoid it.

Given enough time, Hoppes will eventually soften all the carbon or lead build up enough to remove it with a pick. I bought a used stainless revolver that was so dirty I had to soak parts of it for weeks but it was clean in the end. I don't have any experience with them but the stronger solvents don't appeal to me.

 

[Peter M. Eick]

This is flame cutting. See how yours is built up? Mine is cut right into the steel. This is a mild case as I have been very careful about it.

Don't confuse flame cutting with a fouling cup either. That is shown below.