Valkyriekl,
You did a bunch of work to educate me. I much appreciate your efforts.
Reflecting on my revolvers that I changed major innard in, it's mostly been replacing triggers with .265" serrated ones which are my favorite for DA. I ordinarilly don't touch hammers while shooting so there hasn't been much motivation to switch them just to get a different thumb piece.
For fast DA work, I'm with you on the standard/service .265" serrated triggers (and also either semi-target .312" or standard/service .265" hammers for less mass and faster lock-time, but still with the ability to cock for SA).
For SA work, I prefer the combat .312" smooth trigger, with the face optionally covered with a piece of non-slip skateboard tape (the eagle-eyed can see the black tape on the trigger and grip backstrap
here). I also like the .312" semi-target hammer as a good compromise between cocking-surface size and faster lock-time (when comparing between the .265" and .500" hammers).
I dunno what it is, but I don't like the wide .400" or .500" triggers for either DA or SA.
Staying on-topic, the triggers will all interchange between all modern K, L, N, and even X-frames.
Changing topic, are you keeping up your bullseye skills with .22s through the winter?
Thanks again,
Gil
Absolutely! Every time I hit the range (every day except Tuesdays, and maybe Sundays), the first thing I'll do is shoot either a National Match Course or double-NMC (same as NMC, but 2x as many shots at each distance/speed) with my 617. I'm finally climbing back up into my 'normal' range of 95-96% after a long six-month funk where I could barely get 90%. Part of that funk was equipment: somehow I shot out the rifling of the original barrel of my 617, and while the gun was back at S&W for a new barrel I was shooting my Model 17 with iron sights and constantly swapping hammers, triggers and grips trying to find something comfortable (that's my excuse, anyways!).
Here's a picture of the forcing cone of my old 617 barrel. You can see a dark spot at 6'o'clock right where the rifling starts:
The barrel has no lead deposits anywhere and the rifling appears to be pretty clean...except for that one spot. Probing it with a bent paperclip, it felt like a divot. I don't think it's a bulge-spot from a squib; I have had a few squibs in this barrel, but I always stopped shooting immediately and tapped them out.
Whatever the case, the gun with this barrel would always shoot to the right for the first shot, and then the shots would settle around the black (but never produce a tight group)
Part of my funk was physiological: after my high point in July, I went on vacation, did not do any dry-fire practice, and did nothing but rode my bicycle up and down the Outer Banks of North Carolina...so my trigger control disappeared, and my arm muscles had atrophied to the point where holding up that heavy 6" red-dot-topped 617 was tough. In slowfire, I would either have to commit to a shooting within the first 10 seconds of hold or I'd have to abort and put the gun down and reset.
The final part (probably most important part) was psychological: after I peaked, mentally I was at the point where I was taking my performance for granted. When it didn't come back after my vacation, I was mentally trying to catch up while trying to readjust...and basically I was out of gas and getting frustrated.
But yes, I'm getting back into it now; my last three league matches I've consistently scored right around 95% (569/600, 570/600, 572/600) and each time feels better than the last.
How about you? Doing any Bullseye stuff over the winter?
.......... Big Cholla
This website surely does force us to learn the details.
