Do you use brake parts from the local auto parts stores?

[nsl]

I'm planning on replacing pads and rotors soon and wonder what the quality is like on parts from Napa, Advance, etc.
I was recommended to order online and certain brands, but my concern is getting in the middle of the job and finding out that the wrong parts were shipped.

 

[Maddog 521]

I've used parts from NAPA many times without problems. Once I bought an oil filter that wasn't threaded. I returned it for another one. NAPA is good around here and I buy right from the store.

 

[JH1951]

I have used NAPA for years without incident. Have also recently used Advance, but when given options, choose the upper tier offerings. Going on line, Rock Auto has been a very good option too. Buy the better quality stuff with hopes you will be safe longer.

 

[Mercury]

I hear where you coming from, I've bought replacement parts across the counter and then learned that the clerk gave me the wrong part when I was in the middle of the job. A return trip to the store is faster than having to wait for the correct part to get delivered.
You don't have to rely on the store's line of parts. Usually you can purchase name brand pads from the store, they'll just cost more than from an online vendor.

 

[muddocktor]

I recently bought some front rotors and front pads from Advance Auto online instead of at their store and saved a good bit of money doing so. Ordering the rotors and pads online netted me a 15-20% savings and they were shipped to my door. The rotors were of good quality, as well as the pads.

 

[lkabug]

I used NAPA when I did my own work.
The garage I now use for service and repair uses NAPA exclusively.

 

[WTN1271]

I have had good experience with NAPA parts. They usually offer a few grades so you can chose from daily driver to heavy duty to high performance level. As with most things, quality cost more due to higher grade materials and assembly techniques. Rockauto has been great as they offer a large selection and usually are the best price. You do have to wait for shipping so not the best solution for emergency repairs but great for scheduled maintenance. Either way it is always good to check the parts for defects and compatibility before starting.

 

[bagga]

the auto manufactures don't make any brake parts. they buy the parts from whoever makes them for the assembly line. ford, chevy and chrysler buy the same parts you are buying. the only difference is the logo on the package the parts come in.

 

[4barrel]

You didn't say what you were working on. Lots of cars take special tools. Napa is one of the better stores in my area. Most parts stores have two or three grades to chose from if you ask. I bought a new AC Delco distributor part instead of a cheap one. When I went to install it had Made In China stamped on the bottom.

 

[nsl]

You didn't say what you were working on. Lots of cars take special tools. Napa is one of the better stores in my area. Most parts stores have two or three grades to chose from if you ask. I bought a new AC Delco distributor part instead of a cheap one. When I went to install it had Made In China stamped on the bottom.

2007 Civic Si.
Wish I knew who made the factory pads and rotors, as they have about 137K on them, and don't grind or make noise yet.
Just changing them to be safe.

 

[muddocktor]

If you haven't worn the pads down to where they are cutting the rotor and you don't feel a pulsing brake pedal indicating out of round rotors, why change them? Just change your pads. If the rotors don't have problems, just reuse them and save a nice chunk of change.

 

[oldman10mm]

'out of round'/warped/pulsating brakes on typically blamed on a 'warped' rotor. Definition of warped is 'to become bent or twisted out of shape'. I have yet to encounter a warped rotor. Every rotor that was supposedly warped I would put on a large bearing and spin it to watch its' 'trueness'. None ever seen to be warped. The pulsating is caused by heat. The applying of brakes is the friction between the pads and rotor. The energy of the moving car is converted to heat at the pads and rotors. A hard stop will create more than normal heat and if a hot spot of the rotors' surface is created,that hot spot will become heat treated/ carburized. That carburized area/spot ( even though it's only on the molecular surface) will have a different coefficient of friction compared to the other areas thus creating a pulsing. Turning the rotor(s) by only a few thousands will remove the spots but because of a drivers' braking characteristics,they'll soon re-appear. If you got 137K on your brakes,you've been very good/exceptional in your brake applying pattern.

 

[Grayfox]

Brake pads are pretty much brake pads regardless of who sells them. Any of the well known parts stores will have what you need. As has been said, there are different levels to pick from. Definitely go with the better grades. The cheaper ones won't last, make noise and just eat up rotors.
As far as rotors: if they're smooth, true and within specs, don't worry about it. Be sure to measure the thickness. The minimum spec will be marked on it. Worn rotors can be turned if needed for a lot cheaper than replacing, provided they are still within specs.
I have no idea who makes the original factory brake pads. I think the car manufacturers have these special made to higher than normal specs just for them. But the originals always do last much longer than any replacements I've ever seen. Even from the dealer.

 

[LoboGunLeather]

Brake pads are not all equal. The auto parts stores usually offer a bargain brand and an upgrade or two. I always spend a few bucks more for the better pads.

I have purchased rotors a couple of times for common US-made vehicles. Had no problems with those. If your old rotors have been turned a time or two, or if you have a warped rotor, it is usually best to buy new rotors. Also, rotors should be replace as pairs (front or rear) because changing only one will invariably lead to uneven braking capacities and accelerated wear.

 

[Golddollar]

'out of round'/warped/pulsating brakes on typically blamed on a 'warped' rotor. Definition of warped is 'to become bent or twisted out of shape'. I have yet to encounter a warped rotor. Every rotor that was supposedly warped I would put on a large bearing and spin it to watch its' 'trueness'. None ever seen to be warped. The pulsating is caused by heat. The applying of brakes is the friction between the pads and rotor. The energy of the moving car is converted to heat at the pads and rotors. A hard stop will create more than normal heat and if a hot spot of the rotors' surface is created,that hot spot will become heat treated/ carburized. That carburized area/spot ( even though it's only on the molecular surface) will have a different coefficient of friction compared to the other areas thus creating a pulsing. Turning the rotor(s) by only a few thousands will remove the spots but because of a drivers' braking characteristics,they'll soon re-appear. If you got 137K on your brakes,you've been very good/exceptional in your brake applying pattern.

Thank you for the complete but succinct explanation of the braking system.

 

[amazingflapjack]

Napa is one of the places that has "brand new" calipers-and they are guaranteed "life time."

 

[4barrel]

2007 Civic Si.
Wish I knew who made the factory pads and rotors, as they have about 137K on them, and don't grind or make noise yet.
Just changing them to be safe.

I have a 1995 Maxima I bought new with about 250000 that I installed pads twice but I drive mostly on flat ground. No need to replace rotors if no vibration when you hit the brakes. Some stores will loan the special tools to replace parts if you buy from them. They may charge a deposit but They will refund when you return the tools. They do in my town. Brakes are easy to inspect when your tires are rotated. A good set of pads have a layer of different material that will make a squeaky sound when they get thin. If the rotors have a rough surface replace them. If the rotor has been hot turning will only last a short while. Most rotors are fairly cheap. 70% stopping is in the front. It is normal to see thicker pads on the rear.

 

[SC_Mike]

I buy good brake components and tires, oil and filters. The rest I may cut some corners on.

Do some research on the suppliers/companies of parts they sell.

 

[WTN1271]

My orginal brake pads for my 2003 Acura are Akebono, possibly the same for your Honda as they are sister companies. I have had very good service from these pads and have used them on other vehicles as well, a quality product in my experience. Low dust, no squeaks, pad kits usually include hardware too. I usually change rotors ever other time I change pads, had good service from Centric high carbon rotors.

 

[LVSteve]

This is an unwelcome reminder that I need to get the brakes checked on my SUV. What frosts my chops is that every dealership and shop wants to replace the disks whenever they look at you brakes. Unless you are a brake jumper, disks will outlast at least two sets of pads if not three.