Does your MP 15-22 like running Wet?

kilo6echo

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I have experimented with just a light coat of oil, enough to be considered lubricated and ready to fire. I have also tried running it very wet.

I have noticed that running it "wet", with a significant amount of oil tends to cycle better. But with one cautionary detail to be considered, more carbon fouling/lead build up.

A light coat runs good too, less build up, but not as smooth as running it wet.
 
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I run the bolt/rail assembly very wet. After each shooting session, I detail strip the said assembly. Having applied a good amount of M-Pro7 gun oil LPX prior to the shooting session, the bolt cleans up quite easily by wiping it down with a paper towel and a tooth pick to get into the rail channels.
 
I have experimented with just a light coat of oil, enough to be considered lubricated and ready to fire. I have also tried running it very wet.

I have noticed that running it "wet", with a significant amount of oil tends to cycle better. But with one cautionary detail to be considered, more carbon fouling/lead build up.

A light coat runs good too, less build up, but not as smooth as running it wet.

:) Seems like you answered your own question. I run all my guns wet. I was told once by a very good gunsmith that the only oil wasted on a gun is what drips off the end of your elbow. Don
 
:) Seems like you answered your own question. I run all my guns wet. I was told once by a very good gunsmith that the only oil wasted on a gun is what drips off the end of your elbow. Don

I just wondering if anyone has had any issues with running too wet and causing to much build up from all the oil causing malfunctions.
 
I have experimented with just a light coat of oil, enough to be considered lubricated and ready to fire. I have also tried running it very wet.

I have noticed that running it "wet", with a significant amount of oil tends to cycle better. But with one cautionary detail to be considered, more carbon fouling/lead build up.

A light coat runs good too, less build up, but not as smooth as running it wet.

Leading occurs in the barrel. You're saying that you are getting increased leading because you have a high quantity of oil in the receiver?
 
i think he just means crap in the reciever not leading... my rails are polished so a very light coat is more than enough.. to much oil just leave a stick place for trash to build up but these guns are easy to clean so put as much or as little as you want and dont worry about it.. i think you guys get way to excited when it comes time to clean your gun ... strip it hose it down with wd40 and blow it out with an air hose put a couple drops of oil back in it and wipe it down... its not that criticle if it takes more than 5 min for you to clean your m&p you may need to get some help... cause you may have issues you need to work out :D
 
i think he just means crap in the reciever not leading... my rails are polished so a very light coat is more than enough.. to much oil just leave a stick place for trash to build up but these guns are easy to clean so put as much or as little as you want and dont worry about it.. i think you guys get way to excited when it comes time to clean your gun ... strip it hose it down with wd40 and blow it out with an air hose put a couple drops of oil back in it and wipe it down... its not that criticle if it takes more than 5 min for you to clean your m&p you may need to get some help... cause you may have issues you need to work out :D

LOL, I better go get help. Just kidding. But yes, I do mean crap in the receiver. Not lead.

Belt, do you use WD40 for all of your guns? How long have you been doing this for? Just curious as I am always trying to find ways to make things more efficient. I have been using various gun solvents which are sometimes expensive and they all seem to do the same thing.
 
I use Break Free normally, and I run the gun fairly wet.

Mine runs great.
 
LOL, I better go get help. Just kidding. But yes, I do mean crap in the receiver. Not lead.

Belt, do you use WD40 for all of your guns? How long have you been doing this for? Just curious as I am always trying to find ways to make things more efficient. I have been using various gun solvents which are sometimes expensive and they all seem to do the same thing.

On rimfires ive been doing this for years.. Rimfires dont burn as hot as centerfires so carbon is usually not that big of a problem. But grit and grim is a huge problem with these guns and wd-40 is a cheap cleaner/lube so using it to lossen the grit and grim is a cheap way of doing this that wont hurt anything like some of the gun scrubes will.. you can use a old tooth brush or what ever to help those areas that have been packed like th bolt face and breech... but the air hose will remove 95% of it... then relube with clp or whatever you like and enjoy... guns are a hobby its not right to make it unenjoyable by having to spend the rest of the weekend cleaning it:D
 
i think he just means crap in the reciever not leading... my rails are polished so a very light coat is more than enough.. to much oil just leave a stick place for trash to build up but these guns are easy to clean so put as much or as little as you want and dont worry about it.. i think you guys get way to excited when it comes time to clean your gun ... strip it hose it down with wd40 and blow it out with an air hose put a couple drops of oil back in it and wipe it down... its not that criticle if it takes more than 5 min for you to clean your m&p you may need to get some help... cause you may have issues you need to work out :D

I second that :D
 
Thanks, guys, I had that question as well. Looks like I'm going to run my M&P 15/22 in the middle, semi-wet. True, not so bad with hot gases but more so with grit and powder flakes. After a good cleaning I have been using for years now, Tetra Gun Lube, it is great stuff and I run all my 5.56, 45 cal., 9mm and 40mm and they run clean and error free.
 
Just lightly oiled for me. My buddy's was fully lubed and it seemed to attract more gunk from the notoriously dirty .22lr round.

...and there's nothing wrong with having a beer and leisurely cleaning your guns, even if it takes more than five minutes.
 
I've been shooting mine, about 1,500 rounds so far without lubing or cleaning. Shoots fine.
My Ruger 10/22 was purchased in 1973 and only cleaned and lubed twice.
Probably about 10,000 to 15,000 rounds over the years and still a tack driver.
Thats the beauty of 22 rimfires.
 
I've been shooting mine, about 1,500 rounds so far without lubing or cleaning. Shoots fine.
My Ruger 10/22 was purchased in 1973 and only cleaned and lubed twice.
Probably about 10,000 to 15,000 rounds over the years and still a tack driver.
Thats the beauty of 22 rimfires.

i also tend to run my rimfires on the dry side. remmy dry lube (wax) like the 22 rounds goes on most internals. every now an then ill use a little oil on the recoil springs.

i ran my 15/22 wet one time, and had a ton of malfunctions.
 
I like just a little bit of oil on the rails the bolt rides in.
 
On rimfires ive been doing this for years.. Rimfires dont burn as hot as centerfires so carbon is usually not that big of a problem. But grit and grim is a huge problem with these guns and wd-40 is a cheap cleaner/lube so using it to lossen the grit and grim is a cheap way of doing this that wont hurt anything like some of the gun scrubes will.. you can use a old tooth brush or what ever to help those areas that have been packed like th bolt face and breech... but the air hose will remove 95% of it... then relube with clp or whatever you like and enjoy... guns are a hobby its not right to make it unenjoyable by having to spend the rest of the weekend cleaning it:D

People talk junk about W-D 40.
A little History:
Fascinating Facts You Never Learned in School
In 1953, a fledgling company called Rocket Chemical Company and its staff of three set out to create a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry, in a small lab in San Diego, California.

It took them 40 attempts to get the water displacing formula worked out. But they must have been really good, because the original secret formula for WD-40®—which stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try—is still in use today.

Convair, an aerospace contractor, first used WD-40 to protect the outer skin of the Atlas Missile from rust and corrosion. The product actually worked so well that several employees snuck some WD-40 cans out of the plant to use at home.
A few years following WD-40's first industrial use, Rocket Chemical Company founder Norm Larsen experimented with putting WD-40 into aerosol cans, reasoning that consumers might find a use for the product at home as some of the employees had. The product made its first appearance on store shelves in San Diego in 1958.

In 1960 the company nearly doubled in size, growing to seven people, who sold an average of 45 cases per day from the trunk of their cars to hardware and sporting goods stores in the San Diego area.

In 1961 the first full truckload order for WD-40 was filled when employees came in on a Saturday to produce additional concentrate to meet the disaster needs of the victims of Hurricane Carla along the U.S. Gulf coast. WD-40 was used to recondition flood and rain damaged vehicles and equipment.

In 1969 the company was renamed after its only product,
WD-40 Company, Inc.

In 1973, WD-40 Company, Inc., went public and was listed Over-The-Counter. The stock price increased by 61% on the first day of listing.

Since that time, WD-40 has grown by leaps and bounds, and is now virtually a household name, used in numerous consumer and industrial markets such as automotive, manufacturing, sporting goods, aviation, hardware and home improvement, construction, and farming.

In 1993, WD-40 was found to be in 4 out of 5 American households (it seems everyone has a can or two) and was used by 81 percent of professionals at work. Sales had grown to more than one million cans each week.

OVER THE YEARS...

The most interesting piece of WD-40's history is the uses for the product, now numbering in the thousands. Over the years, thousands of WD-40 users have written testimonial letters to the company sharing their often unique, if sometimes just plain weird, uses for the product—many of which are shared in other parts of this Web site.

The uses include everything from silencing squeaky hinges and removing road tar from automobiles to protecting tools from rust and removing adhesive labels. But they get a lot crazier than that. Some of the more interesting stories include the bus driver in Asia who used WD-40 to remove a python snake, which had coiled itself around the undercarriage of his bus, or when police officers used WD-40 to remove a naked burglar trapped in an air conditioning vent.

Think those are crazy? Check out the Official List of 2,000+ Uses here, and more Myths, Legends & Fun Facts.

The most interesting piece of WD-40's history is the uses for the product, now numbering in the thousands. Over the years, thousands of WD-40 users have written testimonial letters to the company sharing their often unique, if sometimes just plain weird, uses for the product—many of which are shared in other parts of this Web site.

WD-40 Facts & Myths | WD-40 Ingredients

I use W-D 40 mainly as a cleaner. I also use 3in1 oil. 3-IN-ONE Oil Corrosion Protection | Stop Rust, Lubricate & Protect where needed. I have also found that Slick 50 works good where heat is the problem.
I am sure there are better products out there.

But being older I just use what I know works.

Guy22
 
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