Last week I ordered a DPM recoil system for my Springfield 1911 A1. It is fitted with a 5” bull barrel and a reverse recoil spring plug so that was the kit that I ordered.
This afternoon I got a call from the courier company. As it was sent to the local station, which is not always manned, I was asked to pick it up. I was just passing through the city where the depot is based so I dropped in on my way home.
It appears to be well made with clear instructions. Made for .45, .40 and 9mm 1911/2011’s, but I could find nothing either in the packing or online to indicate which ring (soft, hard or medium) to use with which spring (also hard, soft or medium) for the different power levels of ammunition. (My main competition load is a 200 gn PFP projectile at a 175-180 PF). There was a card which gave various spring tensions while the slide was both closed and open but nothing to say High should be used for what caliber or PF.
As I have been running a 15Ib recoil spring I had a choice of ring #1, which with all three springs has a 14.5Ib closed force on the slide, so that was where I started.
A search on YouTube came up with a video showing how the heavier the recoil spring the more the muzzle dropped as the slide closed. I have had some issues when the pistol is a bit dirty at the end of a days shooting in pulling back the slide to check a round has been chambered, so I decided to go with the “soft”, lifestyle recoil spring to start with.
Installing the kit I came upon a problem. The new reverse spring plug was too wide on the collar to go into the slide housing. I was able to use my old spring plug but the assembled rod and assembler was too long. It jammed half way in on the barrel link. Removing the screw on assembler and placing the ring on the end of the spring I was able to get the new recoil guide rod and springs in, but getting them out is difficult. I need to use a screwdriver to pry it up slightly after turning the end of the rod 180 degrees so the “legs” of the half moon cut out that usually rest against the bottom of the barrel do not jam on the barrel link block.
So my questions to those with knowledge of this system are:
- Is it usual for the rod assembly to be so long or is it just my particular pistol?
- Is my choice of spring the right one or should I go a little heavier.
Hopefully I’ll get some spare t8me tomorrow to drop in at the range and function test it.
This afternoon I got a call from the courier company. As it was sent to the local station, which is not always manned, I was asked to pick it up. I was just passing through the city where the depot is based so I dropped in on my way home.
It appears to be well made with clear instructions. Made for .45, .40 and 9mm 1911/2011’s, but I could find nothing either in the packing or online to indicate which ring (soft, hard or medium) to use with which spring (also hard, soft or medium) for the different power levels of ammunition. (My main competition load is a 200 gn PFP projectile at a 175-180 PF). There was a card which gave various spring tensions while the slide was both closed and open but nothing to say High should be used for what caliber or PF.
As I have been running a 15Ib recoil spring I had a choice of ring #1, which with all three springs has a 14.5Ib closed force on the slide, so that was where I started.
A search on YouTube came up with a video showing how the heavier the recoil spring the more the muzzle dropped as the slide closed. I have had some issues when the pistol is a bit dirty at the end of a days shooting in pulling back the slide to check a round has been chambered, so I decided to go with the “soft”, lifestyle recoil spring to start with.
Installing the kit I came upon a problem. The new reverse spring plug was too wide on the collar to go into the slide housing. I was able to use my old spring plug but the assembled rod and assembler was too long. It jammed half way in on the barrel link. Removing the screw on assembler and placing the ring on the end of the spring I was able to get the new recoil guide rod and springs in, but getting them out is difficult. I need to use a screwdriver to pry it up slightly after turning the end of the rod 180 degrees so the “legs” of the half moon cut out that usually rest against the bottom of the barrel do not jam on the barrel link block.
So my questions to those with knowledge of this system are:
- Is it usual for the rod assembly to be so long or is it just my particular pistol?
- Is my choice of spring the right one or should I go a little heavier.
Hopefully I’ll get some spare t8me tomorrow to drop in at the range and function test it.
