dry firing J frames
- Thread starter Zoner
- Start date
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I would recommend you put "snap caps" in all chambers of the cylinder prior to dry firing, or some empty shells to have something for the firing pin to hit. Occasional dry firing won't hurt the J frames.
I know it's not supposed to make a difference, but I got
some snap-caps, and have peace of mind when dry-firing.
I doubt if I'd have done a thousand dry-fires with a new 442
without them. That's just me, tho. TACC1
some snap-caps, and have peace of mind when dry-firing.
I doubt if I'd have done a thousand dry-fires with a new 442
without them. That's just me, tho. TACC1
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Empties with the primer pocket filled with silicone gel work well. My thinking is an empty with a spent primer probably won't cushion the firing pin/hammer nose very well, since it has already been dented.
dscampbell
Member
I use snap caps to practice reloading as well as trigger control I start out with five in the cylinder. I fire off all five then dump and reload from a speed loader, fire all five dump and reload from a speed strip. I use snap caps made of aluminum colored red from a-zoom.
Erich
Member
Oh good Lord, have we become a bunch of old ladies? 
Zoner, a perfectly reasonable question. I just dry-fire the empty (make sure it's empty!) centerfire J-frame and don't worry about it. I've only been doing it for thirty years (for two of which I managed a gun store), but so far, so good.
Zoner, a perfectly reasonable question. I just dry-fire the empty (make sure it's empty!) centerfire J-frame and don't worry about it. I've only been doing it for thirty years (for two of which I managed a gun store), but so far, so good.
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Texas Star
US Veteran
If anything, the j-frame guns are less likely to be damaged than the larger ones, as they employ coil springs. That is one secret of Ruger's durability, too.
However, I've never seen a broken leaf spring in the larger S&W guns.
You may break a firing pin or elongate the firing pin hole in the frame to an oval shape, but I've never personally seen that happen. The frame issue may have been more likely on older, softer frames? There is a bushing there for the pin, though. I think it's of hardened, tougher steel.
Maybe repeated impacts might affect an Airweight light alloy frame.
I have no experience with firing pins mounted in S&W frames. My guns have always had the pin on the hammer.
However, I've never seen a broken leaf spring in the larger S&W guns.
You may break a firing pin or elongate the firing pin hole in the frame to an oval shape, but I've never personally seen that happen. The frame issue may have been more likely on older, softer frames? There is a bushing there for the pin, though. I think it's of hardened, tougher steel.
Maybe repeated impacts might affect an Airweight light alloy frame.
I have no experience with firing pins mounted in S&W frames. My guns have always had the pin on the hammer.
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roaddog28
Member
That is what I do with my model 36.
Best bet most of us on here realize that we are taking about center fire J frames. For the n00bs i say
''Dry fire on a rim fire J or any frame not a good idea"
FWIW I have hundres of times dry firing all my center fire Smiths.
''Dry fire on a rim fire J or any frame not a good idea"
FWIW I have hundres of times dry firing all my center fire Smiths.
amd6547
Member
I was recently checking out the trigger and lockup on my circa 1957 pre model 10 by dry firing with empty chambers. It makes a distinct "ping" noise that neither my model 15-3, nor my model 19-4 makes. I won't be doing that with the pre model 10.
