Dry Firing

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Does dry firing a modern S&W revolver (no firing pin on the hammer) hurt it?

How about dry firing a modern S&W revolver with a firing pin on the hammer?

Is this a no-no for both guns? If so, why? Looking for factual responses here, because I have all the opinions anyone could ever ask for.

Thanks-

Rich
 
Can a 22 rimfire(K22) be dry fired with the red plastic snap caps?
 
If you're talking about dry firing as part of a maintenance and function check routine, it should be fine.

If you're talking about dry fire practice, use snap caps. They're cheap insurance.

FYI, I've broken the hammer nose on a K-frame dry firing. I use snap caps. I like A-Zooms.

Also, do a search if you haven't already. This has been discussed many times before.
 
I am in Redcoat's camp on this one. I have read that it is okay to dry fire modern S&W centerfire revolvers. That said, I always use snap caps in everything including revolvers, pistols, rifles and shotguns. I will not allow someone to dry fire my K-22 as I do not have snap caps for it.

This is especially important with firearms of an older design. It does not take a lot of dry firing to break the firing pin on a Winchester Model 12 or an old Marlin. Ask me how I know this.
 
I managed to get through to Herb Belin, a very high level individual in S&W, when they first brought out the 500 Mag in 2003. He said he'd help me get one if I had continued problems finding one. Didn't need it, found one not long afterward.

I did ask him about dry firing. He said not to worry other than saying he didn't endorse some individuals who'd told him they'd sit for hours in front of the TV dry firing.

I use snap caps just to make things easier on the system. Don
 
I have had several 7+ hour road trips with my 686SSR of dry fire both ways with both hands and haven't had an issue. I have done with/without snap caps and have even had snap caps lock up the gun before when the primer thingy came apart on a few of them.
 
I use a snap cap to dry fire my 380. Probably do not need to, but it is, as asomeone said above, a belt with suspenders.

I made my snap cap. I took a 380ACP round and removed the bullet and emptied all the powder. Then I fired it to expend the primer. Nest was to knock out the primer an reinsert the bullet. It never wears out.
 
I don't use any. Never had, don't see any reason to. The "insurance" is not something that can be calculated or quantified. If it breaks 3 trigger pulls sooner so be it

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 
Rich,
I'll let you make up your own mind about snap caps or not. They sure dont hurt anything, but.....

I have personally dry fired multiple thousands of times over the past about 50 years. The revolver I dry fired the most was an early Model 19, which I carried and also fired multiple thousands of times during the late 60's, 70's, and 80's. I also dry fired some Model 10's quite a lot during those years. I was present when Model 10's and Model 15's and other Model 19's and 28's were dry fired during annual Police Academy Trainings during many of those years. As an instructor, I loaded up several sets of 18 dummy rounds with spent primers, no powder, and full wadcutter lead bullets. We carried our spare ammo in 12 loop belt slides, so we had 18 rounds immediately at hand. Loading from the belt slide was the only way we allowed recruits to load during the PPC qualification training. These dummy rounds were discolored so as not to get them mixed up with any live rounds! During training time over a couple weeks during the Academy, individual recruits who were struggling with reloading and firing to meet the required times for qualification would be given some extra tutorial training at night after supper to help them gain the skills they needed. These dummy rounds would allow me and usually another instructor or two to spend some time with three or four students and practice firing and reloading the 12 rounds in the loops under stopwatch times. We had pretty good luck doing this for those who needed the help, but the revolvers we used for this were fired thousands of times with these dummy loads. The spent primers provided little if any resistance to or support for the firing pins.
I also recommended dry firing to other officers who struggled at quarterly qualification times in the District where I worked and was assigned Range Master duty.

I've said all that to say this. I have personally never seen damage to an S&W revolver beyond normal wear and tear that could be traced directly to dry firing. Not saying that it can not or does not happen, but I just never saw it happen. We did sometimes have problems with the highly used revolvers used during training that sometimes required the attention of the Dept. Armorer, but I was never aware of firing pin problems or damage caused by dry firing. Those old guns pretty much went bang when you pulled the trigger unless the low bid contracted practice ammo was not high quality. We had numerous squid loads and lockups at times when primers didn't light up at all or when a round did not had powder in it. It's hard to get a student to stop firing when you are standing next to him or her and that student is pulling the trigger as hard and fast as possible to make time! We had a few times when a couple of bullets would be driven out of a barrel but mostly the bullets didn't get into the forcing cone far enough to allow the cylinder to turn.

What skill I had at firing well and quickly was the result of many hours at regular times dry firing my carry gun. As you might guess, the action on that old Model 19 was pretty slick and smooth from all that dry firing! I still today say that if you are going to use snap caps, you should incorporate reloading when you have "fired" six (or five) "shots (alla y'all do count your shots, don't you? It's not a bad habit to develop when you are not under real stress!). Reload using whatever method you have chosen to carry your spare ammo. Remember that perfect practice makes perfect. A bad habit is just as easily learned as a good one, but it's mighty hard to break a bad habit that is well learned!

I just relate this story for whatever it might be worth to anyone reading it. Again, I'm not trying to tell you what to do, just relating my own experiences that began back in a day and time when things were not nearly as sophisticated as they are today. After all, we used to stick empty brass or a wad of cotton in our ears to try to keep our ears from ringing all night long after a long day on the range. Sadly, we didn't have much access to good ear protection in those days. What's that you say?
 
Kthom,

I hear ya. Experience counts.

When it comes to guns I know little about them. The Corps trained me how to use them but not about the fine details of how they work. I lwill briefly explain why I use the snap cap made from a dummy 380 round.

The rimless 380 cartridge is tapered to hold it firmly in place when the round is chambered. The breech face does that deed when the slide is engaged to firing position. However, if one looks into the loaded chamber slot of my 380 they can see that the base of the round is not folly chambered and the breech face is pressing the round in place. That sets the foreign oin its the ideal position to mane a proper strike.

I understand that without a round the firing pin is not goofing to strike any thing. But will the breech face being not in its intended position in anyway affect the firing pin spring performance over a long period of dry firing? I do not know. Consequently, I use the dummy cartridge to maintain all spacing intended when a round is chambered.
 
HEY DOC, I KNOW THAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR FACTS, LEARNED FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE. ALL THAT NEEDED TO BE SAID HAS ALREADY BEEN SAID, BUT AT THE RISK OF BEING REDUNDANT, ALLOW ME TO CHIME IN......

I'M A 75 YEAR OLD GEEZER. I BROKE THE FIRING PIN ON MY VERY FIRST FIREARM--A BEAUTIFUL MARLIN LEVER GUN, IN .22LR--WHEN I WAS 15 YEARS OLD. THE GUNSMITH THAT I VISITED, TOLD ME WHAT WAS WRONG, AND HOW I CAUSED IT. HE ADMONISHED ME NEVER TO DRY FIRE A .22 CALIBER WEAPON OF ANY SORT ! ! ! THEN HE TOLD ME HOW MUCH IT WOULD COST, TO MAKE THE REPAIR. BEING A TYPICAL KID WITH LITTLE MONEY, I HAD A GOOD LONG TIME, LOOKING AT MY DISABLED RIFLE, AND ALLOWING THE LESSON TO SINK IN, WHILE I ACCUMULATED THE FUNDS TO HAVE THE REPAIR MADE.....

WHEN I PICKED MY RIFLE UP, THE KINDLY 'SMITH TOOK THE TIME TO SHOW ME THE DIFFERENCE WITH CENTERFIRE CALIBERS, EXPLAINING THAT DRY FIRE WOULD NOT HARM THESE WEAPONS.....

AS A RESULT OF HIS LESSONS, I HAVE DRY FIRED CENTERFIRE WEAPONS, OF VARIOUS TYPES, AND BRANDS, BOTH IN THE MILITARY, AND CIVILIAN LIFE, FOR CLOSE TO 50 YEARS, WITHOUT ANOTHER PROBLEM......
 
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I have had several 7+ hour road trips with my 686SSR of dry fire both ways with both hands and haven't had an issue. I have done with/without snap caps and have even had snap caps lock up the gun before when the primer thingy came apart on a few of them.

As much fun as that sounds, has it ever caused you any trouble during a road trip? I can just imagine having the local Sheriff pull up alongside and see me with a revolver in my hand, finger on the trigger, with my luck he'd only know Glocks and have no idea what I mean when I tell him I'm just trying to smooth out the action.
 
Back in the early ‘80s I read that another way to protect your S&W while dry firing was to remove the primer and force-fit a small piece of leather where a primer resides.

Snap caps were not invented back then, I do not believe, or I would have gotten some for my then newly-acquired pride and joy Model 57.

That came about because reportedly some of the firing pins attached to the hammer - they all were back then - had broken due to dry firing.

I reloaded then, so I made up six dummy rounds and cut small pieces of leather shoelaces to fit in the primer pockets.

Those were what I used when dry firing while practicing drawing and acquiring targets quickly in my bedroom. I lived at home back then and my mom and dad would have frowned on drawing, aiming and firing over and over again. They would have thought I was crazy.

That all ended when I went to college in “the big city” and shortly thereafter my beloved Model 57 was stolen while I was at class. That was one of the worst days of my young life, believe me.

Having recently gotten back into handguns in a big way, and reloading again, I was just about to make some of those up once more for my newly-acquired .41 and .44 Magnums.

I could find Snap Caps for the .44 I’m sure, but the .41 is probably another matter. So making up my own again for both guns is probably what I’ll do, and for very low cost.

Based upon what S&W and the above former range instructor above say, they are not needed, but just for peace of mind.
 
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My 29 - 5 had to go back for a firing pin and firing pin bushing R & R.
I always thought the previous owner dry fired it a lot and did that damage.
 
I just make my own snap caps. If you reload, you should have all the supplies needed.

What I did, was load up 6rds of ammo without powder or primers, then filled the primer pockets in with silicone. I made the silicone flush with the case but with an ever so slight "dome". You can't make the dome too high or you will have problems due to headspace, but it's possible to do this and have good functioning snap caps. The reason why you want a slight dome is because silicone "gives" and that little extra will get you the firing pin cushioning you want.

Other options are to use another material for the primer pocket, such as pencil eraser pieces, a hard plastic/rubber, or even leather. These would probably need glued or somehow affixed though. The silicone just enters the hole and anchors it naturally. All you have to do is look at an A-Zoom snap cap for an idea of design.
 
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"Back in the early ‘80s I read that another way to protect your S&W while dry firing was to remove the primer and force-fit a small piece of leather where a primer resides."

A suggestion here if you wish to use a piece of leather to fill the primer pocket. Most any leather shop or boot shop will have scrap pieces of leather. You can buy an inexpensive hole punching kit with about five or six different sizes of punches that screw into a single handle that is struck by a hammer to punch holes. I'm sure you know what I mean. Different kinds and types of these punches can be found several places, such as a Tandy Store front or online there, maybe even Harbor Freight.
Once you discover the punch that will produce a small "donut" of leather that will press fit into your primer pocket, you are in business. A dab of silicone adhesive in the bottom of the primer pocket will keep your leather primer in place. Just make sure you buy a piece of leather that is of the right thickness to completely fill the primer pocket to at least flush or maybe very slightly more than the face of the brass. These punches will usually collect several of these donuts as you punch the holes and they can be pushed out of the punch easily. This stuff won't cost a lot of money and with a generous sized scrap of leather, you should be able to make up lots of dummy rounds that should last a good long while. One other suggestion ... use a plastic cutting board or the grain end of a piece of 2X4 to drive the punch into. Those thin edges of the punch can be broken if the punch is driven into the wood against the grain. When you wiggle it back and forth to remove it, the cutting edge can be broken!

I confess that I have not dry fired the revolvers with a frame mounted firing pin nearly as much as I have those with the firing pin attached to the hammer. But I have also fired these a great many times. My only concern when I dry fire any center fire handgun or rifle is making triple certain there is no ammo in the chamber or anywhere in sight!!! And I do NOT dry fire any kind of rimfire firearm without a snap cap. Doing so is asking for serious trouble, as has been mentioned. The correct size of plastic screw anchors work about as well as anything for rimfire guns, but they need to be rotated after a dry fire or two or three and changed out after there is no "new" plastic rim to buffer the pin. I have not tried the method mentioned of filling the primer pocket with silicone, but I can't see why that would not work also.

Just remember that dry firing is only safe when the chamber(s) is dry!! And even then, only point the weapon in a direction that nothing can be shot and damaged (or worse) so as to double down on your safety practice! And if you wish to check your steady hold and trigger press, place a coin on the barrel rib or sight track and dry fire as smoothly as you can to see if you can complete that action to follow through (trigger fully to the rear) without having the coin fall off!
 
I am a firm believer in the right snap caps. There's two brands out there, that have a brass 'primer' button cushioned against an internal spring. One is Pachmayr, and I can't recall the other right now, but I got mine at Bass Pro.

I've broken a hammer nose once. I've also seen a firing-pin bushing get swaged outward at the 6 o'clock from repeated DF. I picked up a used 642 in a display case recently to wonder WHY I couldn't open the cylinder. The firing pin was jammed forward! Probably from DF....
 

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