HCH
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Are the Dry Teflon lubricants suitable for internal part lubrication?
Dry Teflon lubricant?
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gwpercle
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After gumming up the lockworks of a couple S&W revolvers several years ago with Shooters Choice CLP (FP-10) ...the stuff hardened inside to the point where I had to use brake cleaner to dissolve it .
I tried some Dry Lube on both but to be honest it just didn't seem to be slippery enough so I tried Rem-Oil , basically micro fine teflon suspended in mineral oil . Works better I think. The Rem-Oil doesn't congeal or harden ...the mineral oil will dissipate over time but leaves a thin micro-teflon film that works well on metal parts , you do have to apply a little shot of Rem-Oil into the insides two or three times a year for max. lubrication effect , it seems to stick better and last longer than with just dry lube by itself .
The combination of Micro-Teflon and light oil seemed to be the best combination and works for me .
If you live in dusty or sandy location then dry lube would be the way to go...just apply it every few weeks to keep the Teflon on the metal .
I think the dry lube which is Teflon particles suspended in an alcohol base don't adhere to the metal parts as well as oil and Teflon ..just ny guess.
Gary
I tried some Dry Lube on both but to be honest it just didn't seem to be slippery enough so I tried Rem-Oil , basically micro fine teflon suspended in mineral oil . Works better I think. The Rem-Oil doesn't congeal or harden ...the mineral oil will dissipate over time but leaves a thin micro-teflon film that works well on metal parts , you do have to apply a little shot of Rem-Oil into the insides two or three times a year for max. lubrication effect , it seems to stick better and last longer than with just dry lube by itself .
The combination of Micro-Teflon and light oil seemed to be the best combination and works for me .
If you live in dusty or sandy location then dry lube would be the way to go...just apply it every few weeks to keep the Teflon on the metal .
I think the dry lube which is Teflon particles suspended in an alcohol base don't adhere to the metal parts as well as oil and Teflon ..just ny guess.
Gary
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I use Super Lube Dri-Film, and Tetra Cleaner and Light Lubricant spray on the interior parts of my service guns (carry). These lubricants have volitile carriers, and leave no residue, so they are great for cleaning and lubricating internals, particularly in winter, when temperatures are colder.
(warning: previous comments are purely personal opinion from a police armorer, based on 30+ years service, which coincidentally, included cleaning thousands of other people's filthy guns. As many of you know, police officers are "very conscientious" about gun maintenance.)
Please remember to use caution with all of these products, and follow the directions on the container. Most of them are flammable, due to the type of carrier and propellant that is used.
(warning: previous comments are purely personal opinion from a police armorer, based on 30+ years service, which coincidentally, included cleaning thousands of other people's filthy guns. As many of you know, police officers are "very conscientious" about gun maintenance.)
Please remember to use caution with all of these products, and follow the directions on the container. Most of them are flammable, due to the type of carrier and propellant that is used.
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Rig #2 Oil OR Remoil are perfect for the inside of a revolver and Rig #2 is all I use in one. They are both quite thin, evaporate the carrier and leave lubrication and rust resistance behind. It has worked for me for 40 years. 
Regular oil or grease NEVER sees the inside of one of my revolvers! They simply attract too much debris and will eventually harden up.
Regular oil or grease NEVER sees the inside of one of my revolvers! They simply attract too much debris and will eventually harden up.
dfariswheel
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For various reasons dry lubricants just don't work well in most firearms applications.
About the only place they may work is inside magazines.
Firearms just work better with liquid oils and greases, which is why the military won't use dry lubes in service weapons.
Modern CLP's like CLP Breakfree and G96 CLP will not dry out or evaporate inside a firearm.
The old, original CLP Breakfree could dry out over time, but that's been fixed.
For a dry lubricant I've had good luck with WD-40 Dry Lubricant with Teflon, but I've only used it in the magazines of shotguns. I simply haven't had call to try it in pistol or rifle mags yet.
For many years I lubricated the actions of customer revolvers with Synco Super Lube grease and oil.
The oil is a thick oil-thin grease consistency, and the grease is a stiff grease.
Both are clear-white synthetic Teflon lubricants good from -45 to +450.
I've opened up customer revolvers as much as 10 years after I serviced them and the Super Lube was still present and working.
It does not dry out, gum up, evaporate, or migrate away.
No lubricant can "attract" fouling or dirt. If you get an action dirty it may foul the lubricant, but it can't attract it.
A liquid or grease lubricant will allow moving parts to sweep fouling out of the way and allow the action to continue to function.
A dry lubricant can't do this, which again, is why the military won't use dry lubes.
Bottom line on lubricants.....Try one. If it works for you...you're done looking.
About the only place they may work is inside magazines.
Firearms just work better with liquid oils and greases, which is why the military won't use dry lubes in service weapons.
Modern CLP's like CLP Breakfree and G96 CLP will not dry out or evaporate inside a firearm.
The old, original CLP Breakfree could dry out over time, but that's been fixed.
For a dry lubricant I've had good luck with WD-40 Dry Lubricant with Teflon, but I've only used it in the magazines of shotguns. I simply haven't had call to try it in pistol or rifle mags yet.
For many years I lubricated the actions of customer revolvers with Synco Super Lube grease and oil.
The oil is a thick oil-thin grease consistency, and the grease is a stiff grease.
Both are clear-white synthetic Teflon lubricants good from -45 to +450.
I've opened up customer revolvers as much as 10 years after I serviced them and the Super Lube was still present and working.
It does not dry out, gum up, evaporate, or migrate away.
No lubricant can "attract" fouling or dirt. If you get an action dirty it may foul the lubricant, but it can't attract it.
A liquid or grease lubricant will allow moving parts to sweep fouling out of the way and allow the action to continue to function.
A dry lubricant can't do this, which again, is why the military won't use dry lubes.
Bottom line on lubricants.....Try one. If it works for you...you're done looking.
THE PILGRIM
Member
Rem Oil guy here.
Started using it long ago, seem to like it better and use it for more things as time rolls by.
Started using it long ago, seem to like it better and use it for more things as time rolls by.
I've used Rem Oil for many years, but lately I've been using Lucas Extreme Gun Oil. My father was a mechanic all his life and was a true believer in Lucas products. When I say they had a gun oil I had to give it a try and so far I like it as well if not better than Rem Oil. It seems to be a little thinner so it gets into pivot holes better and the 1oz bottle with the needle applicator is really handy. How it holds up long term compared to Rem Oil is yet to be seen.
I use Liquid Wrench dry lube spray on my rimfire bolts, trigger assemblies and all my metal magazines, including centerfire pistols.
It uses both PTFE AND boron nitride. Boron nitride is slicker and harder than graphite, and is sometimes called white graphite. The carrier evaporates, and boron and PTFE is left behind. Works beautifully on rimfires as they are dirty burning and really have a lot of gritty blowback.
AR triggers and bolts are frequently factory coated with boron nitride.
I use Eezox to clean, but sometimes I leave everything alone after and let the Eezox residue as the lube, especially on trigger components.
It uses both PTFE AND boron nitride. Boron nitride is slicker and harder than graphite, and is sometimes called white graphite. The carrier evaporates, and boron and PTFE is left behind. Works beautifully on rimfires as they are dirty burning and really have a lot of gritty blowback.
AR triggers and bolts are frequently factory coated with boron nitride.
I use Eezox to clean, but sometimes I leave everything alone after and let the Eezox residue as the lube, especially on trigger components.
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CCantu357
Member
I always heard good things about FP-10, and I am surprised to hear it gummed up. That being said, I find that revolvers do seem to work best fine, simple oils. Also, I have never had a firearm malfunction with standard Hoppe's 9 oil. Will it stand up to extreme temperatures and high round counts like the newer oils? Probably not. With rigorous cleaning and application does it work? Yes.
Been using Breakfree CLP for years. Never had a problem w/ any firearm ... revolvers, semi-automatics, all rifles and shotguns. YMMV. Sincerely. bruce.
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Breakfree is an excellent product - I use it myself, just not on the inside of a Revolver. The inside rarely gets taken apart for a thorough cleaning and I would be afraid that the BF would thicken and get laced with unburnt powder, residue, and dirt. That in turn can become a "cutting agent".
I do use BF on most of my semi autos, rifles and SG's that have easy to and often exposed parts and lock works. If anything gets dirty - I clean and re-apply. Revolvers are a different scenario - to me.
I do use BF on most of my semi autos, rifles and SG's that have easy to and often exposed parts and lock works. If anything gets dirty - I clean and re-apply. Revolvers are a different scenario - to me.
