Dumb questions I think on metal targets

[Grimjaws]

I bought a M&P 9 fs for Christmas and with the weather getting nicer I want to update my range to shoot some metal targets. Most of the ammo I have it FMJ so here come the dumb questions:
can you use FMJ on metal targets?
is there a type of metal target to get to avoid ricochets and such?

My indoor range has a metal back rest but we are restricted to lead rounds but not sure about what to use outdoors.

Thanks

 

[7shooter]

I and most of the USPSA shooters I shoot with routinely shoot steel with full metal jacket ammo. The only times I have been hit by ricochets were when I was shooting lead bullets and there were imperfections on the steel which apparently caused the problem. USPSA requires the steel to be at least 23 feet from the shooter's position.

 

[Alpo]

I used to shoot steel plates and those "falling men" targets (pepper poppers) with 45 hardball. Never a problem.

Only ricochet I ever got was a hot 32 Long, 115 lead, at about 8 feet. Took the plate down, but came back and hit me in the elbow. I decided not to shoot that close any more.

 

[Autococker07]

If you buy, buy AR500 steel... this "hard steel" is what we use for rifle targets, and will take 30 cal at 200 yds and 50 BMG at 600yd without damage.... needless to say, normal (non-penetrator) handgun rounds do nothing to it, even point blank. Once steel gets divots in it, you will see an increase in ricochets. AR500 is overkill, but you will only buy it once... also make sure you get laser cut.... heat cutting it can ruin the heat treatment.

Also, obviously ALWAYS wear eye pro!!! I tend to get more 'splash' from lead, but more cuts/serious injuries from FMJ (that copper comes off like a razor blade). I have never had a nick farther than 20 feet or so. We typically shoot up to 3 ft on steel, and the last ten feet you see a HUGE increase in splash.... most of us try to angle the steel a bit to attempt deflection.

 

[Doug M.]

Make sure you are wearing first class eye protection. I'd wear body armor, but I already have 3 sets. Do some research on the distance at which the risk is reduced. (It is never eliminated.)

 

[gm272gs]

Most indoor ranges (and some outdoor ranges) don't allow steel targets, in my neck of the woods.

My club allows steel targets, but only for the action pistol matches, run by the club. Our average club members are not allowed to set up and/or use metal targets.

That said, hardball is fine. I don't shoot pistols closer than 10 yards and rifle closer than 100 yards (unless it's .22LR "swingers", which I will shoot at 25 yards.)

 

[1coyote]

I haven't had any issues using 9mm FMJ on my steel plates. I think its best if the steel plates are free hanging. That way they have some give on impact, and helps direct most of the splatter toward the ground. I always have my plates at least 40' away, but that's just my preference. For 9mm and 45, AR500 is definitely overkill. I would never shoot at steel with craters / divots.

 

[DR505]

My agency restricts steel targets to 10 yards away or farther. We use FMJ as practice ammo all the time.

 

[G-Mac]

If you buy, buy AR500 steel... this "hard steel" is what we use for rifle targets, and will take 30 cal at 200 yds and 50 BMG at 600yd without damage.... needless to say, normal (non-penetrator) handgun rounds do nothing to it, even point blank. Once steel gets divots in it, you will see an increase in ricochets. AR500 is overkill, but you will only buy it once... also make sure you get laser cut.... heat cutting it can ruin the heat treatment.

What about water-jet cutting? Is that OK?

 

[coltle6920]

What about water-jet cutting? Is that OK?

G-Mac this might answer your question.

Cutting AR500

Shootsteel is where I've bought my targets.I use 1/4" for handguns and 3/8" for the AR-15.You definitely have to match the thickness of the target to the caliber you are shooting and also the proper distance to shoot from.This will ensure your targets last you a lifetime.

I don't shoot at any target under 10yds unless it is freely hanging or angled down to deflect the fragments.

 

[Autococker07]

What about water-jet cutting? Is that OK?

Thats probably what I am thinking..... I know when i talked to the owner of the range I shoot steel at, he told me that he tried some of the cheaper stuff but the plasma cutting (or maybe it was laser, I am foggy) ruined the temper at the edges, which created divots, which makes them unusable.... I bet you are right, and the water jet is what he called "the good stuff"



while the heavy steel is overkill for pistols, it is hard enough to not deform, thereby giving you longer life and a bit more safety margin. Of course, if you are never going to be "close", you can get by with cheaper steel. ymmv

Dents are BAD when shooting steel targets.... shooting dented steel is what can get someone seriously hurt. We have the luxury of a very limited membership with mainly LE/military/retired military that make sure our equipment is top notch, and owners that do not pinch pennies for quality.

 

[SW CQB 45]

Weidners has some unfinished steel targets for cheap.....just need to make a stand of some sort.

3/8" is perfect for handgun. Avoid damaged steel at close ranges.

Slightly angle your steel to deflect the slug downward.

Don't stand directly in a straight line with the target. I always stand either right or left of the target that way any possible ricochet will hopefully be angled away.

Hit the target in any other location other than the flat will be anyone's guess where it will be deflected. (Had a buddy shooting a angled down steel at 7 yds hit the very top edge of the steel. The ricochet came and stuck in his hand)

I have investigated several injuries on a police range related to ricochets. One slug hit the corner of a piece of steel hidden in the tall grass (probably was there for years) on the dirt berm. it tore apart and bounced back and lodged into the arm of an officer approx 7yds away causing injury. Officers were side stepping away from the paper target and shooting at an angle….and thats when the hidden steel was struck.

 

[H Richard]

When you set the targets, keep the targets at an angle to deflect the bullet towards the ground. Probably 10 degrees is sufficient, but still stay at least 25+ ft. back from the targets, further is better.

 

[rwsmith]

Hanging them loosely......

If they aren't too big they can be hung loosely so that when the bullet hits, the plate tips and the bullet goes down.

 

[gordon21]

Everyone is right about trying to angle the target 5-15 degrees. Just make sure the TOP is closer to you and the target BOTTOM is an inch or more farther away. This will naturally direct the bullet down into the dirt.

Spinners that swing back or forth front to back or completely tip over are OK. Just beware of those that spin left right. You COULD hit one and the bullet ricochet 90 degrees to the right. Probably not likely, but just be aware that it might suddenly go left or right.

With .22LR shot at 30-70' away, I find a lot of flattened bullets about 6-15" from the target towards me. These are all swinging or movable targets, not solidly fixed.

 

[O2Guy]

If you buy, buy AR500 steel... this "hard steel" is what we use for rifle targets, and will take 30 cal at 200 yds and 50 BMG at 600yd without damage.... needless to say, normal (non-penetrator) handgun rounds do nothing to it, even point blank.

I have a friend that has a range at his home and I'm able to shoot there when I want. This must be the steel that he has for targets. We have shot these targets from 7 yards to 50 yards with everything from rimfire to .500 S&W handguns. All that happens is the paint is chipped off the target, no damage to the steel, at all. We do not shoot these with anything but handguns.

 

[Cyrano]

When I was shooting at steel plates in competition, we were not allowed to be closer than 25 yards from the target. We had no trouble with richochets at that range.

 

[Muss Muggins]

The jacket will fly back, occasionally right at the shooter