Ejection/extraction problem with .32 Hand Ejector

[HKSmith]

I have a very nice I-frame .32 hand ejector, 2 inch barrel, 1951 vintage. I was shooting it this week at 50 feet with excellent results. These were .32 S&W Long reloads, 83 grain Lapua HBWC bullet over 1.9 grains VV N310. When I tried to eject the empties, the ejector rod would barely move. Using a cleaning rod, the empty cases easily pushed out with no stickiness. I fired 25 rounds like this with normal report and recoil. With loaded rounds in the cylinder, the same thing happened with the ejector, and the loaded rounds dropped out when I inverted the gun. The ejector operates freely and smoothly when the cylinder is unloaded.

When I got home, I loaded the cylinder with resized empty brass and could not operate the ejector. The empty cases just dropped out by inverting the gun, so there was no stickiness in the chambers. Any ideas about this?

 

[chief38]

My first suggestion would be to try different ammo. If everything works smoothly without the bullets inserted, the ammo is the most obvious. Try and get some vintage S&W or Colt 32 Longs from Remington, Winchester or Federal.

If the vintage ammo shows the same results, I'd look at either a bent ejector rod or a poorly fit "star". Actually you can check those out first.

 

[46er]

soak the cylinder/ejector/extractor rod in penetrating oil and see if it loosens up.

 

[HKSmith]

Thanks for your interest and replies. This problem is independent of the brand or type of ammunition, factory or reloads. It occurs with empty resized cases from R-P, W-W, Aguila, or CBC.

In very carefully watching the extractor star disengage from the 2 pins holding it in place while pushing the ejector rod, the extractor star rotates slightly when it rises above the pins. If the extractor is slowly lowered back into place, I can feel it click back into engagement with the 2 retaining pins. Once it's engaged, it appears to fit perfectly so the gun can be easily loaded and unloaded without using the extractor. This explains the jamming of the cartridges in the chambers when I push the ejector rod, but I have no idea what's causing this or what to do about it.

 

[chief38]

Thanks for your interest and replies. This problem is independent of the brand or type of ammunition, factory or reloads. It occurs with empty resized cases from R-P, W-W, Aguila, or CBC.

In very carefully watching the extractor star disengage from the 2 pins holding it in place while pushing the ejector rod, the extractor star rotates slightly when it rises above the pins. If the extractor is slowly lowered back into place, I can feel it click back into engagement with the 2 retaining pins. Once it's engaged, it appears to fit perfectly so the gun can be easily loaded and unloaded without using the extractor. This explains the jamming of the cartridges in the chambers when I push the ejector rod, but I have no idea what's causing this or what to do about it.

The Ejector Rod should have a groove in it that rides on a "key" inside the hole in the cylinder. That is what is supposed to keep the star from rotating when being operated. If the key is broken, bent or worn, or if the machined groove is too wide or worn, then that could explain your issue.

 

[stu1ritter]

Is it possible that the very small locating pins can be slightly bent from someone unscrewing the extractor rod without putting empty cases in the cylinder to prevent it from happening?

Stu

 

[H Richard]

Have you checked the inside of the chambers for residue that the empty cases are "grabbing" onto. Just like any other caliber, the fired round leaves a ring of residue inside the chambers. A good scrubbing with a brush and cleaner after shooting should clean this out. Polishing the interior of the chambers might help to keep clean.

 

[Protocall_Design]

It sounds like the extractor shank may be twisted, causing the extractor to turn as it goes out. That would bind up on the brass, as the brass wants to come straight out.

 

[Green Frog]

I agree with Protocall Design on this. Your problem is in the interaction of extractor star, pins and rod.

If the empties fall out of the chamber by their own weight, then the chambers or swollen brass should not be the problem. If it were me, I'd take the yoke out and then slide out the extractor rod and using proper techniques I would disassemble the cylinder assembly all the way down, and look for problems. It may be as simple as some rust or other contamination, or it may be a bent extractor rod or pins.

Froggie

 

[HKSmith]

Thanks for all the advice. I'll try removing and disassembling the cylinder and see what I find. I've never done this before, but have watched a video of it being done. I do know about putting empty cases in the chambers before unscrewing the ejector rod.

 

[chief38]

It sounds like the extractor shank may be twisted, causing the extractor to turn as it goes out. That would bind up on the brass, as the brass wants to come straight out.

You have a good point! I would not be surprised if someone tried to remove the ER without empties in the cylinder and twisted it the wrong way.

 

[Green Frog]

Also remember that the direction you unscrew is important! A 1951 vintage I frame should probably have right hand threads, but somewhere along in there that changed to left hand, and I’d have to look up just when. Supposedly the e-rod has a ring cut between the knurling and the smooth part of the rod when the change to LH threads was applied. I’ve only had one cup of coffee this morning so I may be off on the date.
Froggie

 

[Protocall_Design]

You can just watch the extractor as you work it in and out, and see if it rotates a little bit. No need to take it apart to do that.

 

[HKSmith]

You can just watch the extractor as you work it in and out, and see if it rotates a little bit. No need to take it apart to do that.

The extractor star does rotate when it clears the pins. I can feel it click back into place if I slowly lower it. I agree that this is certainly causing the problem, but I assume fixing it would require disassembly of the cylinder. You mentioned that the shank of the extractor might be twisted. How would I go about fixing that?

Thanks

 

[Protocall_Design]

Once you get it out, put the part with the ratchets in a 3 or 6 jaw lathe chuck and the end of the shank in a drill chuck in the tailstock and have the groove held by a chuck jaw. It would be best to have the ejector rod screwed in most of the way as a mandrel so the shank doesn't collapse. Then you can turn the lathe chuck to straighten it.