Ejector rod issues. a few ???s

[shotguntom]

The action on my model 60 38 special will "lockup" when firing. More so as the range session goes on. I disassembled the entire gun. Nothing appears wrong, but I did attempt to tighten the ejector rod.
I used fired cases in the chambers, snugged the cylinder in a padded vise, and taped the knurled end of the ejector rod, prior to tightening.
Finally my question. How tight is too tight on the ejector rod.
P.S. The rod is not bent.I am firing speer 38 cal. 125gr lawman ammo
Need to trust this gun.
Any input?
Thanks,
Tom

 

[Alk8944]

You're doing it backwards. Use a piece of belt leather and wrap that around the extractor rod and hold the rod in your vise. You then hold the cylinder in your hand and turn it to tighten/loosen the rod. Just to clarify, just fold the leather over the rod and insert in the vise, not several turns around the rod. Put as much of the rod as you can in the vise so there is as much area as possible to grip. It is friction that holds the rod from turning, not mechanical engagement of the leather with the knurling on the rod.

How tight? Not very scientific, but a little tighter than the factory installs them! Turning until the threads are snug plus another3-5 degrees is usually in the ball park.

About the original problem, "Locks up" really isn't too informative a description and could mean a lot of things depending on, specifically, how the gun is "locking". You will have to be a little more specific. If what you refer to is the gun can't be opened because the extractor rod unscrews merely tightening it adequately should fix that problem.

 

[shotguntom]

When I say "lock up" I mean I cant squeze the trigger in double action, or cock it to single action. The hammer will travel an1/8" or so and then the action wont go any further. Perhaps binding is a better way of putting it.
I have no problem opening the cylinder. I do notice, even when I'm able to fire a full 5 rounds double action, without incident, there are 2 chambers that, for lack of a better word, resist the cycling.
Tom

 

[haggis]

Three potential problems:

1. If you have appreciable endshake, the cylinder face may be contacting the barrel.

2. The spring on the cylinder stop may be weak allowing it to slip off the trigger extension early. The stop then pops back into the cylinder stop slot before the cylinder moves, locking up the gun.

3. If the two holes with the harder pull are adjacent to each other, a slightly bent ejector rod may be causing the harder pull. TIR for the rod needs to be below 0.006" (preferably below 0.003"). You won't be able to detect 0.020"-0.025" TIR with just your eyes - you need a dial indicator.

Buck

 

[Alk8944]

This last sounds like there is a trigger recovery issue. Next time this happens try making sure the trigger travels fully forward. Try pushing the trigger forward and then see if it will pull double-action.

It could be the gun is dirty internally, there is a small piece of debris inside the action which can block the trigger, a too weak rebound spring either from being changed to a lighter one or cutting the original, or you are simply not fully allowing the trigger to go forward all the way.

It, literally, can be a matter of only a few thousandths of an inch that the trigger does not go fully forward that causes this. What happens is the trigger, with the hand, will recover enough to allow the hand to re-set on the ratchet, but not enough to catch the hook on the cylinder stop. When you pull the trigger the hand tries to turn the cylinder but can't because the cylinder stop isn't being pulled down out of engagement with the cylinder to allow it to rotate. The trigger will move just about 1/8" before it looks solid.

Has a "trigger job" been done on the gun, or did you buy it used? Often attempts to lighten the trigger pull result in failure to recover because a too light rebound spring has been used to help accomplish this. Call S&W and order a new factory rebound spring and install it and I will bet this problem goes away.

 

[shotguntom]

Where to begin? The gun is used , and definitely been beat a bit. I picked it up for $180 Did a total tear down, a cleaning and I installed a 14lb rebound spring, along with an 8lb hammer spring. Trigger pull was horrific before this. Never encountered a gun with such a heavy pull. Hence the spring changes.
The binding does occur on two chambers next to each other, lending credence to the bent ejector rod theory.
I suppose I could put a factory rebound spring in and see if it goes away.
Does installing a new ejector rod require fitting a new hand to ensure timing/carry up?
Dont mind spending a little on the gun, as I didnt pay alot for it. On the other hand, I already have a nice 60, so I dont want to keep chasing my tail.
Thanks for all the replies,
Tom

 

[Alk8944]

The fact that two charge holes exhibit the problem can be nothing more than the stop notches for those holes (on the opposite side of the cylinder) are burred and the cylinder stop is catching on those burrs. If the problem didn't occur until after the spring changes it lends support to the problem being related to the trigger not recovering fully being the real problem. If you do want to replace the ejector rod this has nothing to do with timing as that is controlled by the extractor itself. If the extractor rod doesn't exhibit any runout I have no idea why you would want to change it, unless the knurling has been damaged by someone using pliers on it in the past.

Where to start? Start by putting the standard rebound spring back in the gun and see if the locking problem goes away. If it does you have your answer. Very basically, anytime any mechanical device exhibits behavior it did not have until you did something to it, it is most likely something you did that caused the problem.

 

[shotguntom]

The fact that two charge holes exhibit the problem can be nothing more than the stop notches for those holes (on the opposite side of the cylinder) are burred and the cylinder stop is catching on those burrs. If the problem didn't occur until after the spring changes it lends support to the problem being related to the trigger not recovering fully being the real problem. If you do want to replace the ejector rod this has nothing to do with timing as that is controlled by the extractor itself. If the extractor rod doesn't exhibit any runout I have no idea why you would want to change it, unless the knurling has been damaged by someone using pliers on it in the past.

Where to start? Start by putting the standard rebound spring back in the gun and see if the locking problem goes away. If it does you have your answer. Very basically, anytime any mechanical device exhibits behavior it did not have until you did something to it, it is most likely something you did that caused the problem.

I guess I did fail to mention that I never fired the gun prior to the spring change, as the trigger was ungodly heavy. Didnt ever consider not changing it. I really dont know if it would exhibit the same problem. I could simply do that, as you stated.. If it fixes the issue, I'll be dumping the gun with a clear head. I really dont need a 2nd model 60 with a brutal trigger. I wouldnt be inclined to use it. Spring change and a range trip in order.
Tom