Erfurt Luger advice needed

runscott

Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2018
Messages
496
Reaction score
791
Location
PacNW
I just picked up a 1918 Erfurt Luger. It appears to be in nice condition; however, it has an after-market magazine. When I put the mag in and try to lock the toggle, it won't stay. Is that because the spring in the magazine isn't strong enough?

Or could there be another problem?

Also, I can't get the lever on the left to go down so that I can break down the gun. Thanks!
 
Register to hide this ad
It's probably the spring or follower on the aftermarket magazine causing the toggle not to stay back.

Are you pushing back on the barrel while you're trying to move the takedown lever? you need to do that before the lever will move freely.
 
It's probably the spring or follower on the aftermarket magazine causing the toggle not to stay back.

Are you pushing back on the barrel while you're trying to move the takedown lever? you need to do that before the lever will move freely.

Thanks. I'll look for another magazine.

Yes, pushing back on the barrel - no movement. There are hints of recent lubrication, so I'm guessing it's been broken down recently, and this is just me not knowing the gun.
 
I have one of the nickel plated Mec-Gar mags that I use in my 1935 Mauser Luger and it works perfectly. They have a good reputation for reliability, what brand is the after market mag ?
 
Last edited:
I have one of the nickel plated Mec-Gar mags that I use in my 1935 Mauser Luger and it works perfectly. They have a good reputation for reliability, what brand is the after market mag ?

I can't find any labeling on it. I will look into whether or not the Men-Gar mag you mention will work with this gun. Thank you.

BTW - I did get the take-down lever to go down, so the field stripping has begun!
 
The hold-open/spring or both may be missing, or a bad mag. As was mentioned above, Mec-Gars are the go to mags.
 
Erfurt guns are interesting. I have one pretty much just like yours. Erfurt did only brand new military production or rebuilds of their own or other manufacturer's guns for the military. Their new guns were what is often called functionally ugly, they do not have nearly the finish the commercial production guns did, however they work just fine.
 
If it IS the magazine, I don't want to shoot it until I have a properly-functioning one, so I ordered a mec-gar. I'll finish learning the complete break-down process and clean it today. Thanks for all the input.
 
Take the magazine out of the pistol.
Now hold the pistol Upsidedown.
Then retract the toggle all the way to rear and shake the pistol a bit.
At that point release the toggle and see if the toggle is locked to the rear.

If the 'holdopen' is present and not stuck in the down position by rust, old oil, ect,,simple gravity will often let it drop in front of the breech block when the pistol is upside down and lock the pistol open.

Putting the pistol right side up,,the holdopen will then drop back down (disengage) eitherby gravity again,,or preferably by the holdopen return spring pressing on it. Simply pull the toggle back just a bit and let it forward to disengage theholdopen and close the breech.

You should be able to see the holdopen itself in the frame when you pull the toggle all the way open.
It's an L shaped part that sits in a reverse L position. The lower leg of the L is accross the base of the breech block. The longer stem is along the right side of the magazine well.

The 'button' on the side of the Luger magazine is what activates the holdopen.
The holdopen is held down (disengaged) by it's holdopen spring. A lightweight narrow flat spring that sits over the top of the holdopen and engages the holdopen pivot pin to it's rear in the frame.

As the magazine button rises along the side of the magazine as shots are fired and new rounds fed into the pistol, the button climbs higher and higher along the side of the mag till on the last shot fed from the magazine that button engages the holdopen and pushes it upwards against it's flat spring pressure.
That upward movement makes it pop up in front of the breechblock as it travels to the rear and then holds it there, breech open on the last shot.

Sometimes aftermarket magazines don't quite fit right. The button may be too big around to slide freely, or too small around to engage the holdopen. Too thin to engage the holdopen is also a problem sometimes.

Hold open can just plainly be missing, but it should work even if the holdopen spring is not there.
If the spring is there, be careful removeing. It comes out w/o much of any bending to remove. It slips out from under that pin. Much bending to remove it and you'll have a two piece holdopen spring,,not an uncommon thing. Repro's are available .
 
I just came back to report success, and saw your post. I think what you described is probably pretty much what I did. I followed the instructions for take-down in this video: [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-RL98gXKTQ"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-RL98gXKTQ[/ame]

...and when I put the gun back together, everything worked perfectly. Strangely, I had broken it down a few times yesterday with no change - the toggle was very difficult to pull up, and then it snapped right back down. The only thing I did differently from the video was holding the gun upside-down to put the barrel assembly back on.

Now I pull it up smoothly, it locks, and I can repeat easily.

I'm dying to take it to the range and shoot it - any suggestions for pre-range items to check?
 
Take 125 grain ammo. Leave the 115 gr stuff at home. I shoot 125 gr American eagle in mine and it is accurate.

Thanks, Since I'm only experienced with revolvers and non-Luger semi-autos, I'm just wondering if there are safety concerns.
 
Take 125 grain ammo. Leave the 115 gr stuff at home. I shoot 125 gr American eagle in mine and it is accurate.

I have been firing 124 out of my semi-autos. This is the first I've heard of 125 - I had to google it to find where I had lost that extra grain.
 
I have a double dated 1917 DWM. It was originally an Artillery Luger, converted in 1920. It has several police agency proofs on it, so its been around the block a few times.

I have been shooting 124 and 125 lead RN bullets thru it for 20+ years. My P38 likes 124 CN bullets best, and they work fine in the Luger as well.

A few years ago I found some cheap bulk 115 FMJ and they work very well too.

The mag I got with it was a WWII aluminum base, and i retired it at the onset, replacing it with a generic black plastic base mag. I don't remember where i got it, but it works well.
 
Take 125 grain ammo. Leave the 115 gr stuff at home. I shoot 125 gr American eagle in mine and it is accurate.

115 grs shoots good for me in a Luger. To each his own.:rolleyes:

[ame="https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=B1EPN5CBB_M"]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=B1EPN5CBB_M[/ame]
 
I would replace the recoil spring, just to be sure.
, Warning: There will be blood.
Replace the firing pin spring.
A spare locking bolt spring wouldn't be a bad idea.
 
Last edited:
The old civilian manual "Die Selbstlade-Pistole "PARABELLUM" " from DWM states an 8 gram (123.4 grains) projectile at 310 m/s (1017 fps) for the 9mm.

It also points out to have the pistol upside down when reassembling upper and lower.
 
Back
Top