Ever had a revolver fail?
- Thread starter tacotime
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Double-O-Dave
US Veteran
Well said, Nyeti. My wife's favorite handgun for me to leave outside of the safe for her when I was traveling was a Model 34-1 (.22LR) as she was afraid of the recoil of any other caliber. This changed once I allowed her to handle my Model 642-1 (.38 Special). She enjoys the reliability and sheer and utter simplicity of the piece - no exposed hammer, no safety, etc., just point and click.
Regards,
Dave
Revolver Malfunctions:
1. S&W Model 36 3"-- Firing pin bushing not fully seated causing cartridge rim to keep cylinder from rotating
2. Colt Agent--Same as #1
3. S&W Model 10 6" cylinder release tip broke off jamming action
4. S&W Model 19 4" Squid round put bullet half in forcing cone and half still in chamber
5. Colt Trooper 6"-mainspring suddenly weaken and began light primer strikes
6. S&W Model 25-2- cylinder suddenly stopped rotating in DA fire (using full moon clips) never found cause
7. Ruger BLK Hawk .45-hammer would not cock--Factory replaced with a new revolver
8. S&W Model 15-cylinder stopped rotating--hand spring broke
9. S&W Model 19 2.5"-cylinder would not close--split forcing cone
1. S&W Model 36 3"-- Firing pin bushing not fully seated causing cartridge rim to keep cylinder from rotating
2. Colt Agent--Same as #1
3. S&W Model 10 6" cylinder release tip broke off jamming action
4. S&W Model 19 4" Squid round put bullet half in forcing cone and half still in chamber
5. Colt Trooper 6"-mainspring suddenly weaken and began light primer strikes
6. S&W Model 25-2- cylinder suddenly stopped rotating in DA fire (using full moon clips) never found cause
7. Ruger BLK Hawk .45-hammer would not cock--Factory replaced with a new revolver
8. S&W Model 15-cylinder stopped rotating--hand spring broke
9. S&W Model 19 2.5"-cylinder would not close--split forcing cone
Last edited:
jeffrey
Member
Reading recent posts, I just remembered one other revolver failure: a spring snapped in my old Python (I don't recall which spring, as I never got up the nerve to take that gun apart), and the action ceased to function.
Two revolvers.
A Modern Colt double action (1990s) failed to correctly rotate the cylinder hanging up and a J-Frame broke an internal part.
I don't believe current revolvers are built to the same Mean Time between Failure standards that Police Auto are today.
In the 1980's they still were, but today revolvers are civilian guns and cost cutting has started to reduce reliability.
If the revolver is not intended for LEO use or heavy competition or hard use I don't think it is as reliable as a polymer Glock or M&P by design and manufacturing.
A Modern Colt double action (1990s) failed to correctly rotate the cylinder hanging up and a J-Frame broke an internal part.
I don't believe current revolvers are built to the same Mean Time between Failure standards that Police Auto are today.
In the 1980's they still were, but today revolvers are civilian guns and cost cutting has started to reduce reliability.
If the revolver is not intended for LEO use or heavy competition or hard use I don't think it is as reliable as a polymer Glock or M&P by design and manufacturing.
I had a Rossi Circuit Judge carbine revolver (45/410) have the cylinder completely lock up after about 8 rounds. Davidson's sent me another within a week, and it was perfect.
My brand new S&W PC 686+ is sitting at S&W right now ...
My brand new S&W PC 686+ is sitting at S&W right now ...
If this happens.....
If this happens there is something wrong with the gun or the primers. Too soft primers have been known to flow around the firing pin and lock the pistol up, especially with hot loads. S&W's 686 and a lot of variations were especially prone to this and they had a recall to fix it with a new hammer nose and bushing.
If this happens there is something wrong with the gun or the primers. Too soft primers have been known to flow around the firing pin and lock the pistol up, especially with hot loads. S&W's 686 and a lot of variations were especially prone to this and they had a recall to fix it with a new hammer nose and bushing.
Doug M.
Member
I had a 649 of the mid-80s era that was a pig. Never worth relying on, and would not fire more than 10 rounds without binding (I think the tolerances were too tight and heat would cause the binding). That was a function of poor build quality, period. I have a 940 that is at a well-known revolver smith's shop now dealing with stuff that is very annoying; less than functional for me, but not "broken". It will be semi-custom when I get it back, but that's my need.
For a really good analysis from someone who has a tremendous level of real world knowledge and has shared the outcome of many years of serious shooting with us, go back and re-read response #45 from Nyeti. He is as qualified as one can be to offer his conclusions and opinions, and most of us would be well off to beat his words into our memories.
For a really good analysis from someone who has a tremendous level of real world knowledge and has shared the outcome of many years of serious shooting with us, go back and re-read response #45 from Nyeti. He is as qualified as one can be to offer his conclusions and opinions, and most of us would be well off to beat his words into our memories.
Freischütz
Member
I've had several revolver failures over the years:
- Percussion caps falling into the action
- Broken mainspring on a Colt M1917
- Cylinder didn't always turn when a H&R 999 was cocked
- Broken trigger pin on a S&W 22-4
- Percussion caps falling into the action
- Broken mainspring on a Colt M1917
- Cylinder didn't always turn when a H&R 999 was cocked
- Broken trigger pin on a S&W 22-4
Florida J Frame
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I had a TRR8 start giving me light strikes (FTF) on double action shooting. I quick trip to the mother ship and a new firing pin made it good as new. I've not had any stoppages on my bottom feeders that were not ammo or operator caused.
LennyLames
Member
My only revolver is a 460 XVR. It has failed me twice:
1. Once, up north, I shot at a deer and the animal kept running.
2. Another time, I was sighting it in at 100 yards in preparation for deer hunting season. This was after several months of shooting smallbore and air rifle. My revolver jumped and the scope cut a semicircular incision on my forehead. Based on that amount of recoil, it should not have hit the X on the target but it did, making me question its accuracy.
I blame both incidents on the internal lock.
Seriously, I use my 1911s for concealed carry and I've found them to be extremely reliable as long as I use the correct ammunition, specific magazines (not just brand or type but actual units), and proper lubrication.
I've considered buying a 686 as a carry gun but that has been delayed indefinitely by budget priorities.
Based on what I've read in this thread, and on what I've been told in the past, a revolver malfunction, while improbable, could be difficult to resolve in the field. A semiautomatic malfunction can usually be cleared in seconds (depending on training and the type of malfunction, e.g., Type 1, 2, 3.).
1. Once, up north, I shot at a deer and the animal kept running.
2. Another time, I was sighting it in at 100 yards in preparation for deer hunting season. This was after several months of shooting smallbore and air rifle. My revolver jumped and the scope cut a semicircular incision on my forehead. Based on that amount of recoil, it should not have hit the X on the target but it did, making me question its accuracy.
I blame both incidents on the internal lock.
Seriously, I use my 1911s for concealed carry and I've found them to be extremely reliable as long as I use the correct ammunition, specific magazines (not just brand or type but actual units), and proper lubrication.
I've considered buying a 686 as a carry gun but that has been delayed indefinitely by budget priorities.
Based on what I've read in this thread, and on what I've been told in the past, a revolver malfunction, while improbable, could be difficult to resolve in the field. A semiautomatic malfunction can usually be cleared in seconds (depending on training and the type of malfunction, e.g., Type 1, 2, 3.).
jscott
Member
Detroit 1974, myself and two partners in toe to toe shootout with armed kidnapper. My SW19 worked fine as did one partners Python. Other partners SW 2 1/2 19 locked up and I recall him shaking the gun to get it to fire. Can't recall if that occurred before or after he made a head shot and can't recall what was the problem with the gun. All ended well for the good guys.
Been shooting S&W revolvers over 40 years & shot 10's of thousands of rounds. Personally never had a "mechanical failure" that didn't involve a used gun that had a "home gun-smithing job". Of those, 2 come to mind, a 686 hunter that the previous owner had ground the sear notch down to nothing and a 586 that had a "trigger job' where the return spring was cut way to short & the strain screw backed off. Both were fairly easy fixes and became good guns. As for semi auto, I don't shoot many but my Sig & Rugers are very reliably... unless you let someone try to shoot them that limp wrist, then of course they can jam. One thing about a revolver, that don't happen.
Invictus357
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This thread has me puzzled.
I was under the impression that anything pre-MIM/lock was godlike perfection and never failed.
For the record, I have never experienced revolver failure.
I've had the odd dud cartridge but that's about it.
I was under the impression that anything pre-MIM/lock was godlike perfection and never failed.
For the record, I have never experienced revolver failure.
I've had the odd dud cartridge but that's about it.
This thread has me puzzled.
I was under the impression that anything pre-MIM/lock was godlike perfection and never failed.
For the record, I have never experienced revolver failure.
I've had the odd dud cartridge but that's about it.
All of my revolver function issues have been shooter or ammunition induced.
