Excellent Product Report: Lead Remover

novalty

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I'm not one to generally throw out a random review, but after trying it this past weekend I was extremely impressed. Birchwood's Casey's Lead Remover Cloth--it does an excellent job. I tried out some old 158gr cast RN fodder through my Ruger SP101 this past weekend, and when I was trying to clean the carbon fouling from the end of the cylinder nothing seemed to touch it--well at least Hoppes #9 or BreakFree CLP. So looking through my bin of cleaning stuff I found an old package with the Lead Remover Cloth. Cut off a small patch and with minimal effort was able to clean all the fouling rings around the end of the cylinder--now it is the same color as the rest of the cylinder. I had cleaned the barrel with Hoppes #9 and even run a brush through it a couple times--tried a patch of the Lead Remover cloth through and removed even more. In searching for replacements for when I used up that last of what I have it looks like KleenBore and MidWayUSA also offer similar clothes which have gotten good reviews as well.

Hope this helps someone else out. This is the best thing I have had to rave about since the Maglula Uplula.
 
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Mothers Mag Wheel Polish or Flitz on a toothbrush or cloth.
The cloth does work well but much less expensive for a jar of the Mag polish in the long run.

Don't go near a Blued Gun with it!!
 
Good report on the lead remover cloths.

Please do not use the lead remover cloths on blued or nickeled firearms, it can remove finishes. On stainless they work great.

On the "blast-rings" found after shooting I use a good solvent and a toothbrush which has been "cropped" to give it stiff bristles. If that fails I'll try a copper brush LIGHTLY. Anything left is too minute too retard cylinder rotation and even if the rings are still there I do not care about the appearance as I am not selling the gun soon.

I use the Lewis Laead Remover kit, copper "Chore Boy" scrub pads (or a replacement), and lead remover cloths to clean my leaded firearms.

First: The bore leading gets a brushing with a copper bore diameter brush wrapped with strands from the Chore Boy until it is a tight fit. This generally removes all, or almost all leading. If there is still stubborn "chunks" in there I use the Lewis tools.

Second: I will use the Lewis tool to clean the forcing cone.

Thirdly: If there are traces of lead in the corners of the lands, left over after Chore Boy and Lewis tool, I use the lead remover cloths in the manner of cleaning patches on a jag.

Lastly: I go after the cylinder face as posted above.

I have seen more than one report here and on the MidwayUSA site that the liquid lead remover solvents are not reliable, but I have not used them myself.
 
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