EXPERIENCED KROIL EXPERTS DESIRED

[rct269]

I've had a piece soaking for a week---submerged. (The fastener hole is exposed at both ends----two avenues of attack.) The piece has been tapped on, heated---and try, try again. No joy.

It occurred to me the instructions might help----as in: "When all else fails, please read the instructions." I read the entire can. That which is of immediate interest is the fact it contains "petroleum distillates". Gasoline is one such, I believe. Gasoline gets old---and becomes essentially useless----in a matter of months. I've had this (8 oz., dang near full) container of Kroil for (very likely) 20 YEARS.(!!!)

You reckon it might be about time to get a new can, and start over on this little project??

Ralph Tremaine

 

[Inusuit]

I like Kroil for lots of applications. It's cheap. Buy a new can and get on with your life.

 

[walter o]

had a model 1 cylinder center pin that would not turn out(unscrew )
soaked on kroil 1 week ,did not help set it aside for a month and tried it again and low and behold it would Unscrew easily .
patience grass hopper is the word
After being in the same position for 150 years I thought that was rather quick to free it up.

 

[glowe]

20 years might be pushing it. The make-up of Kroil is basically hydrocarbon and the major materials are listed below:

Severely Hydrotreated Petroleum Distillates 30 – 50%
Light Petroleum Distillates 30 – 50%
Diisobutyl Ketone 0 – 15%

Persistence and Degradability:
Light Petroleum distillates have a low vapor pressure and will volatilize (evaporate) over time.

Heavy hydrotreated petroleum distillate is inherently biodegradable based on structurally similar chemicals.

All that means that it will change over time and it would be logical that the material will become less and less effective as the years pass.

As for gasoline stability, I have to say that I have an old chainsaw that was probably filled last a few years ago, but it still starts on the second pull.

 

[JohnRippert]

I use Ed's Red homemade gun cleaner and lube for just about everything. The transmission fluid in it makes a good penetrating oil. I keep a couple of 5 gallon buckets with gamma seal lids mostly full of Ed's Red. One for initial dunking and cleaning and one for final wash. I take of stock/grips and leave the firearm in overnight. Then I use short bursts of air from the compressor to get the big chunks out and clean afterwards like normal. works like a charm. I have not had to pull my Ruger MKII apart for years to clean it out.

I agree with walter o though. Soak it some more.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Ralph, I agree with John. Get some ATF and acetone, mix half and half, then soak the object in that. Or, you could add the other ingredients for Ed's Red and use that.

 

[J. R. WEEMS]

I can only add to the above, when unscrewing ANYTHING, be sure and use the right tools for the job-- If one is not available, consider making one. Kroil Oil?? I bought a couple cases, one of cans, one of spray cans some years ago-- it is good as new. JMHO

 

[ggibson511960]

Low Vapor Pressure??

20 years might be pushing it. The make-up of Kroil is basically hydrocarbon and the major materials are listed below:

Severely Hydrotreated Petroleum Distillates 30 – 50%
Light Petroleum Distillates 30 – 50%
Diisobutyl Ketone 0 – 15%

Persistence and Degradability:
Light Petroleum distillates have a low vapor pressure and will volatilize (evaporate) over time.

Heavy hydrotreated petroleum distillate is inherently biodegradable based on structurally similar chemicals.

All that means that it will change over time and it would be logical that the material will become less and less effective as the years pass.

As for gasoline stability, I have to say that I have an old chainsaw that was probably filled last a few years ago, but it still starts on the second pull.

Low vapor pressure results in lower rates of evaporation, as opposed to high vapor pressure liquids. Perhaps a typo? More important is the closed container of Kroil. All the volatile components in Kroil saturate the vapor space in the can in proportion to their relative vapor pressure then stop evaporating from the liquid surface. It's doubtful that meaningful mass transfer takes place to affect the bulk composition of Kroil in a can. If it had that much light, high vapor pressure liquid it would immediately change upon exiting the can which it clearly doesn't. Long term degradation from de-hydrogenation or polymerization of additives is more likely. The carbon to hydrogen bond in a saturated hydrocarbon is pretty stable to the point of resisting breakage by almost anything short of combustion. The can will likely rust through (externally) before the Kroil goes bad. Penetrating oil service is not that critical anyway.

 

[2hawk]

Here, get some fresher stock if you think that may be an issue:
https://websecure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/orders/order_kroil.shtml

And, just to add, I have used alternating cycles of heat and cold in addition to Kroil to help to free things up. One of my wife's discarded blow dryers, and then bagging the part and putting in the freezer overnight can help unstick things in my experience.