Face blast

maxxpower

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I shot my fairly new 610 today and on three occasions I received a blast of debris on the left side of my face. I felt it go through my hair and I took a couple of nice pieces on my cheek. Blood was drawn.

I was shooting Blazer Brass .40 165gr FMJ

Is this an ammo issue? I assume it's coming back from the forcing cone area but I might but wrong about that as well.

Thoughts welcome.

When one round throws the shrapnel back it REALLY tests your ability to not flinch on the next round!
 
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When a revolver regularly spits bullet jacket material, it is a sign of improper forcing cone dimensions or the timing is off.

With gun empty, slowly cycle the action DA and see if the locking bolt engages the cylinder notches before hammer release.

With gun empty, slowly cycle the action SA and if if the locking bolt engages the cylinder notches before hammer release.

If this jacket spitting continues, the gun needs the attention of a good gunsmith.
 
If that's a new gun, it needs to go back to the mothership and let them finish what they would have done if it was not Friday afternoon the day that one shipped.....

I agree, it has to be a timing problem, forcing cone problem, or cylinder/barrel alignment problem.
 
What kind of "debris", that'll answer whether it needs to be looked at. If it's pieces of copper from the jkt then yes you have a problem, if it's just some unburned powder there's no need to waste a trip to MA. All revolvers spit to one degree or another, you should try a hot loaded 357, they spit ferociously! Spitting isn't necessarily a sign of timing being off.
 
What kind of "debris", that'll answer whether it needs to be looked at. If it's pieces of copper from the jkt then yes you have a problem, if it's just some unburned powder there's no need to waste a trip to MA. All revolvers spit to one degree or another, you should try a hot loaded 357, they spit ferociously! Spitting isn't necessarily a sign of timing being off.

How do I figure out what kind of debris is bouncing off my face?
 
If that's a new gun, it needs to go back to the mothership and let them finish what they would have done if it was not Friday afternoon the day that one shipped.....

I agree, it has to be a timing problem, forcing cone problem, or cylinder/barrel alignment problem.

Okay, I don't mind asking a stupid question.

What timing issues are there when you're shooting SA?

Is it that the cylinder ndidn't seat properly when I was cocking the hammer?
 
How do I figure out what kind of debris is bouncing off my face?

You don't have to. Eventually your expensive eye surgeon will be able to tell you when they try to save your eye.

THE GUN IS DEFECTIVE AS IS . . . walk/don't run . . . but PLEASE send it back to be fixed!

Any revolver that spits lead or whatever like this is dangerous in more ways than designed to be!

T.
 
The staement that all revolvers spit to one degree or another is only partly true.

A revolver can spit unburned powder residue. This is particularly true for slow-burning ball powders used in magnum cartridges.

A revolver can spit powder fouling that has crusted on the face of the barrel breech ('forcing cone") or cylinder.

And lastly, a revolver can spit bullet jacket material or bullet lead that has scraped off the barrel breech from misalignment of the cylinder charge hole and the barrel breech. This is the most hazardous type, and usually caused by timing irregularities or failure of the cylinder to lock before ignition. An excessively large B-C gap will contribute too.

I agree with Tom. Your gun needs to be fixed, and quick!
 
Okay, I don't mind asking a stupid question.

What timing issues are there when you're shooting SA?

Is it that the cylinder ndidn't seat properly when I was cocking the hammer?


Failure to carry up (time) properly in single action, will show itself before it will in double action.

A lot of guys don't know how to check carry up properly. You either need to use EMPTY cases in all of the chambers, or better yet, lay the gun on your left hand, and slowly cock the hammer with your right thumb, while lightly dragging the fingertips of your left hand on the cylinder as it's being rotated during cocking. If you have carry up issues, the cylinder stop bolt won't engage the notch once the hammer is all the way back to the cocked position.

.357's are known for spitting, but any quality gun that is spitting regardless of load, needs to be addressed by a qualified 'smith.
 
Maybe not on your relatively new gun, but on well-used revolvers, especially PPC guns, the cylinder locking notches can get peened, preventing the locking bolt from properly engaging and securing the cylinder during ignition. This often results in "spitting", chamber skipping, and misfires as a result.
 
Regretfully, not all internet advice is of value. If your revolver is drawing blood from the shooter, it needs to go back to the factory or a qualified gunsmith, regardless of what some say.
 
How do I figure out what kind of debris is bouncing off my face?
Well let's see you said it drew blood?? Doesn't sound like it bounced off to me. I've had it happen to me and I can tell if it's bullet material or just powder fragments by simply looking in a mirror, amazing huh?
So many gun experts online it's truly amazing, so any time a firing weapon draws blood it needs to be returned? So I should send my Leupold scope back because it's drawn blood before? I should send my 629's back because the thumb latch some times bites me? It must be defective! Some of you just really don't know as much as you seem to think, but by all means send that gun back to S&W and see if if comes back and doesn't spit at you.
 
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Well let's see you said it drew blood?? Doesn't sound like it bounced off to me. I've had it happen to me and I can tell if it's bullet material or just powder fragments by simply looking in a mirror, amazing huh?
So many gun experts online it's truly amazing, so any time a firing weapon draws blood it needs to be returned? So I should send my Leupold scope back because it's drawn blood before? I should send my 629's back because the thumb latch some times bites me? It must be defective! Some of you just really don't know as much as you seem to think, but by all means send that gun back to S&W and see if if comes back and doesn't spit at you.


Bro, lighten up!

You are offering no useful advice here. Your Leupold scope?
You got your thumb bloodied by your thumb latch? Ain't the same thing dude.:(

I may not be an "expert", and yea, this is the internet. So what? We are trying to help out a fellow shooter who asked a question on that very same internet.

If your scope cut you, then you need to learn where to place your face on the stock. If your thumblatch took off some hide, then re-adjust your grip to a position that won't do that.:rolleyes:

A gun spitting anything isn't in proper working order, period. Now we are talking about debris being pushed out a tiny gap at up to 36,000 PSI. I believe there's a huge difference in the ability to injure here. The two problems you cited were your fault. Getting hit by flying debris fom your gun, isn't. It is a mechanical defect and needs to be addressed by someone who knows what they are doing.
 
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I bought my first Model 29-2, a blue 8-3/8" gun, NIB in 1977. It spit a lot of crap out of the barrel/clyinder gap. I thought it was probably just unburnt powder but the problem bothered me. It bothered other shooters on the line. I made a small plywood box about 14" X 14" with no top or bottom and took it to the range. I would lay it on it's side on the shooting bench and insert my gripped M-29 deep enough into the box that the barrel/cylinder cap was about half-way down the box. After a couple of rounds, I could see brass bullet jacket fragments as well as un-burned H-2400 powder granuals embedded in the surface of the wood interior of the box.

We then tried it using a cardboard box and it tore the box apart, debris and gas being ejected with power enough to tear the cardboard!

About then, early 1978 I think, S&W send an advisory to Model 29 owners encouraging them to return the guns to S&W and the service department would recut the barrel forcing cones to a different angle to help deminish the problem. I did, they did, and it did. I was happy.

My best buddy and I each had bought new Model 28 Highway Patrolmen, both 6 inches, probably not made too far apart, same era. The timing seemed okay, but both would blow little shreds of brass bullet jacketing out the sides and back towards us. I got a chunk almost 1/4" long embedded in my plastic lens shooting glasses, and buddy Dewey got a shorter but thicker brass fragment embedded into his cheek, which drew blood. We both suspected we were also getting peppered a bit by unburned powder as well, but it didn't stick into you like a little brass spears!

We returned both guns with an explanation and a bit of shredded bullet jacket each gun had sent into our facial regions, taped with Scotch tape to a 3x5 card. Both guns came back with the forcing cones recut, with much more of a bevel at the rear edges of the forcing cone. One of them had a new hand installed, as well. The problem ceased.
 
I bought my first Model 29-2, a blue 8-3/8" gun, NIB in 1977. It spit a lot of crap out of the barrel/clyinder gap. I thought it was probably just unburnt powder but the problem bothered me. It bothered other shooters on the line. I made a small plywood box about 14" X 14" with no top or bottom and took it to the range. I would lay it on it's side on the shooting bench and insert my gripped M-29 deep enough into the box that the barrel/cylinder cap was about half-way down the box. After a couple of rounds, I could see brass bullet jacket fragments as well as un-burned H-2400 powder granuals embedded in the surface of the wood interior of the box.

We then tried it using a cardboard box and it tore the box apart, debris and gas being ejected with power enough to tear the cardboard!

About then, early 1978 I think, S&W send an advisory to Model 29 owners encouraging them to return the guns to S&W and the service department would recut the barrel forcing cones to a different angle to help deminish the problem. I did, they did, and it did. I was happy.

My best buddy and I each had bought new Model 28 Highway Patrolmen, both 6 inches, probably not made too far apart, same era. The timing seemed okay, but both would blow little shreds of brass bullet jacketing out the sides and back towards us. I got a chunk almost 1/4" long embedded in my plastic lens shooting glasses, and buddy Dewey got a shorter but thicker brass fragment embedded into his cheek, which drew blood. We both suspected we were also getting peppered a bit by unburned powder as well, but it didn't stick into you like a little brass spears!

We returned both guns with an explanation and a bit of shredded bullet jacket each gun had sent into our facial regions, taped with Scotch tape to a 3x5 card. Both guns came back with the forcing cones recut, with much more of a bevel at the rear edges of the forcing cone. One of them had a new hand installed, as well. The problem ceased.

Buff- Thanks for that lucid and friendly bit of information and everyone else as well. This is really a great place for info. Sounds like a trip home for my 610.

It's also interesting that not every gun made "way back when" was perfect either.
 
I've noticed the new batch of CCI Blazer ammunition has a very thin jacket compared with the oldest ammunition...You can easily peel the jacket with a knife but it won't be easy on the old ammo.
I'm not using this ammo because last 2 times I used it on my GLOCK 22,I found a lot of "golden" debris inside of the gun and a friend of mine was shooting 45acp ammo and we found pieces of the jacket on the cardboard target...so to me,I'd check the gun and stay away from this CCI Blazer..regards
 
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