Fast or Slow

TwoPoundPull

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Been using a couple of wheelguns (686 and 627) for plates and pins in a revolver division. Shoot .357 158gn Laser Cast with a 24 BHN. Like to keep my velocity around 1200fps, am I, and more importantly the guns better off close to the "Never Exceed" end of 231, or the "Start Grains" end of 296.
 
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When you load near the top end of a fast powder, you have very little safety margin. Any little thing that causes more powder to end up in one case can cause undesired effects. The same thing but in reverse,can happen when at the bottom end of 296/H110. I would lean toward 2400, Accurate #9 or perhaps another number that allowed me to back off max a little for more safety margin. Now for a small qty of full power hunting ammo that had the podwer individually weighed out, I would not be too worried about the powder charge. Also when using fast podwer, the case will often hold a double charge. This will really ruin your day. Not a real answer to your exact question. Just info to digest.
 
I wouldn't play around with either one using a Lee manual. Too much of a fast powder is a bad thing and too little of 296/H110 is almost as bad.

Look for a powder that will give you the velocity you want with the accuracy you need at the lowest pressure you can get away with and still be safe with the given load densities.
 
Yup, sounds like a powder in between 231 and H110/W296 would fit your load better. 2400 might work, and it's an excellent powder.

That said, Hodgdon isn't shy about their minimum load data for H110/W296. They don't want people downloading this powder, so if you meet the minimum charge listed in their reloading center, I would be fine using that. Reloading manuals tend to give a lower starting load for this powder, so I typically go straight to the source for data.
 
Yup, sounds like a powder in between 231 and H110/W296 would fit your load better. 2400 might work, and it's an excellent powder.


Yep....and so is IMR4227. I use it in my "middle of the road" loads in .357 and it works well. Meters like a dream.
 
I use AA #7 and sometimes VV-350. I am not comfortable stretching slow powder (231) that far, and generally avoid 110-296 except for max loads.
Actually the three VV powders in this range (N340,3N37, & N350) all work very well and give you flexibility from around 1150 to 1350.
 
What you can do is this to determine what gives you the best accuracy with regards to powder weight.
Start at the beginning charge weight loading 5 rounds and increasing your charge weight by .1 grain for every 5 rounds loaded until you get to the maximum charge weight.
Hit the range and shoot off a sand bag or some other solid rest to see which rounds give you the best accuracy. The test I have suggested will tell you what charge weight is working best in your pistol/revolver.
 
Been using a couple of wheelguns (686 and 627) for plates and pins in a revolver division. Shoot .357 158gn Laser Cast with a 24 BHN. Like to keep my velocity around 1200fps, am I, and more importantly the guns better off close to the "Never Exceed" end of 231, or the "Start Grains" end of 296.
Pressure is pressure no matter which powder produces it. If the pressures are the same it doesn't matter which powder you use.
 
Pressure is not pressure. The loading manuals list maximum pressure, and that peak pressure can be a very narrow little spike while having much lower pressure for the duration of the shot.

Slower powders provide higher pressure for a longer time interval--that's how they achieve higher velocities.

For the OP, a middle to slow powder would probably work well, although 1200 fps is getting up there. Blue Dot, HS6, SR4756, AA#7, N340, PB would all probably work OK. Unique would be a lot better than 231.
 
cp1969,
Reread my post and you will see what I said is right. I said, "If the pressures are the same it doesn't matter which powder you use." If you load W231 to 25000 psi and load W296 to 25000 pis the gun doesn't care which powder produced that pressure, it's the SAME! :rolleyes:
 
JellyBean:
I note once again that you mention "LEE Manual". What is it about the Lee loading Book?
Thanks
R
 
R, if you read all of Lee's manual you might notice it's mostly about selling Lee's products. Their data is from other sources but has been doctored to conform to their powder handling equipment. If you look at their data you will see quite a few instances where the "never exceed" load and the "starting" charges are the same or very close. While they list a lot of powders for each bullet they load, not all of those powders will be a good choice. And, since they are getting their data from different sources, The data for one bullet, such as a 230 gr. FMJ in .45acp could have been obtained using several different bullets, with several different seating depths. But since they don't give all that information you're on your own, but I'm sure they have lowered their max loads enough to keep themselves from getting sued.

Their manual, in my own opinion of course, is just like every other product they market. It's not quite as good as most, but it is a lot cheaper. Don't misunderstand me now, I have editions 1 and 2, and if there is ever a third I'll probably own one of those too. But they are only used as a back up reference, or in case someone has a question about Lees powder handling equipment. I do not load directly from them if I can help it.
 
JB:
OK and thanks for that info. I too, have their 2nd edition, and as one might expect from a LEE published book, it pushes their product.
While I check the data in all books I have, my last check before re-loading, is to go to the powder WEB site and plug in the details looking for their info.
OK Just wondering, thanks for your time..

R
 
cp1969,
Reread my post and you will see what I said is right. I said, "If the pressures are the same it doesn't matter which powder you use." If you load W231 to 25000 psi and load W296 to 25000 pis the gun doesn't care which powder produced that pressure, it's the SAME! :rolleyes:
Yeah, you'll get the same peak pressure indication, but you won't get the same velocity. So the powder you choose DOES matter, unless pegging a pressure meter is your goal.
 

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