Filthy ammo!

[reerc]

Holy dirty ammo, Batman! This is what the stainless cylinder of an SP101 looks like after only 25 rounds of some "store bought reloads":

Its actually blacker than this, the light reflecting on it makes it look sort of silvery / grey.

Whatever, I love the smell of cleaning guns ... and it'll keep me out of the pool hall to boot!

 

[reerc]

Holy dirty ammo, Batman! This is what the stainless cylinder of an SP101 looks like after only 25 rounds of some "store bought reloads":

Its actually blacker than this, the light reflecting on it makes it look sort of silvery / grey.

Whatever, I love the smell of cleaning guns ... and it'll keep me out of the pool hall to boot!

 

[Spotteddog]

Well REERC,
Our Dad's did tell us to "wash your hands after you use it"?
Seems it applies to using anything!
What do you figure they were cutting the propellant with, "baby laxative"?

 

[reerc]

Oh, I fully expected to "clean it after using it", always do ... just never seen it quite this black before.

 

[RON in PA]

Looks normal to me, but then I shoot swaged lead bullets. Also I just wipe the residue off the cylinder face and leave the carbon rings as they don't affect function. There seem to be a lot of OCD people who freak out with the carbon rings and insist on scrubbing them off, I've better things to do with my time.

 

[reerc]

Originally posted by RON in PA:
There seem to be a lot of OCD people ...

You should see my sock drawer!

 

[Spotteddog]

Aw,
A few dozen passes with a mill file across the cylinders face, then 10 or 15 minutes on the bench grinders wire wheel, and she'll look good as new!

 

[gatorhugger]

Don't use a file. And only used a wire brush in extreme cases.
Just get some lead away cloths. They remove 95% of burn rings in stainless.

 

[Gatofeo]

Looks normal to me, for using lead bullets.
I use lead bullets almost exclusively. A few passes with a copper or brass scrubbing brush will remove the toughest lead deposits, if solvent on a rag doesn't get it.
So many complain about lead deposits. I think removing copper deposits is even tougher.
And another thing: Don't judge a lead bullet load until you've removed ALL of the copper fouling from the bore and chambers.
Now, have fun removing all the copper fouling. The hardest area to remote it from is the "corner" where the groove meets the land.
Not even a bore brush can get down in there. Only thing I've found that works is multiple, overnight treatment with a layer of Hoppes No. 9.
Copper jacketed bullets? Bah! Why would I want to subject my revolvers to such a mechanical cruelty?

 

[Spotteddog]

I hoped you knew I was kidding Gator! (JOKE)
Fact is, I couldn't care less what scorching or staining happens to the front of the cylinder. No one, except possibly somebody who won't be recalling it for long is ever going to see it? And, as long as it doesn't start closing up the cylinder/forcing cone dimensions, again I'm ambivalent.

 

[reerc]

Originally posted by Spotteddog:
Aw,
A few dozen passes with a mill file across the cylinders face, then 10 or 15 minutes on the bench grinders wire wheel, and she'll look good as new!

Well, if the line about the file wasn't a tip off, the line about the bench grinder certainly was; I knew you were joking. Nothing rougher than a brass brush dipped in good ol' Hoppes numba nine, then what that doesn't get off, a polishing cloth will.

 

[n4zov]

From your photo I don't see a problem. I usually just leave that kind of fouling alone until I do a really thorough cleaning once in a blue moon.

 

[tac803]

Believe it or not, I have used Flitz to cut worse than that on my stainless Ruger.