Final coating on 1986 S&W Combat Grips?

RogerA

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Redoing the original 1986 goncalo alves combat grips on my 629-1. Soaked in acetone to remove old finish. Soaked in hydrogen peroxide to remove everything else. Sanded with 400 and 800 paper. One rubbing of light oak stain to add a little color. Very happy with results so far. I want a glossy, hard finish, like what they had on them before 37 years of service. Which one would be best, gloss polyurethane or Casey Tru-oil?
 

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Gloss poly would be easier.
If you thin a little you can spray on the last coat for a very smooth finish.
In any case, thin poly for better brushing.

You might also like a semi-gloss poly. Not as "hard" a look as full gloss.
 
I clean with Acetone, 0000 steel wool, Tru-Oil, 2-3 coats, then 0000 steel wool to knock the gloss down. I like the hand rubbed finish. Tru-Oil or Tung Oil, I like these finishes. If you don’t do the final 0000 steel wool process you have a very deep gloss like you’re looking for.
 
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Stock refinishing

I agree with all the above information.I also use Acetone,0000 steel wool and 400,800 and finally 1500 grit.Sometimes a little stain and sometimes nothing depending on grain.Tru-oil is a nice hand rubbed look.I also use matte finish poly which is also a very nice look.When I use high gloss I thin high gloss poly 70/30 with mineral spirits.One dab on your finger is all you need and can apply it evenly without runs.I apply 8-10 coats but only 1 on the checkering.The gloss is outstanding.Yes,pictures would help as I have examples of each.I'll see what I can do.
 
........There's a rub on version from Min-Wax that does a really nice job.

Agree, the current Minwax oil based wipe on poly in satin or semigloss is an easy to use, durable and handsome finish. I’ve never been a fan of the gloss factory finish on combat grips mysel.

Lou
 
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