Firing Pin Cleaning and Lube

[Peter_S]

I have an M&P9 that has about 2,500 rounds through it. I do the usual field strip and clean after every range outing, but have never cleaned the firing pin and FP channel.

Is this something that needs to be done regularly? Is it about time I do it now?

If I do clean it now can I just remove the pin and spray it with some Gun Scrubber and spray the same through the channel?

Then, what lube and how much do you all recommend.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

[D Rock]

I didn't do mine until about 10K and didn't really find much build up. No brass shavings just some carbon toward the end.

You do not want to put lube in the channel. It will cause more build up and create the potential for light strikes.

Just use the gun scrubber (polymer safe since the channel liner is plastic) and brush the firing pin. Use q tips to clean the inner channel and pipe cleaner to clean the firing pin hole and the small hole on the inner bottom of the slide.

Dave

 

[Bigpoppa]

D Rock, that is absolutely what I do. Those pipe cleaners work very well getting down in to the nooks & crannies and not expensive at all.

 

[Peter_S]

Thanks D Rock. That's good to know. I guess I'll leave it for a while then.

 

[Zeke2839]

I didn't do mine until about 10K and didn't really find much build up. No brass shavings just some carbon toward the end.

You do not want to put lube in the channel. It will cause more build up and create the potential for light strikes.

Just use the gun scrubber (polymer safe since the channel liner is plastic) and brush the firing pin. Use q tips to clean the inner channel and pipe cleaner to clean the firing pin hole and the small hole on the inner bottom of the slide.

Dave

So I just took my brand new m&p9c apart for the first time to see how difficult this task is, I see that the firing pin and channel is oiled well (pretty wet). You say do not lube the channel?? I did have a missfire (light strike) at the range first time out, was wondering if this could have been the cause. This misfire (winchester amo) I noticed a light dent after firing, reloaded it again then it finally fired. Maybe I should wipe this oil dry from my firing pin and channel or this could happen again. Is this a common thing with M&P's?

 

[D Rock]

Zeke2839, that's interesting. I was just reading a thread on Glock Talk about the same thing. Oil or whatever in the fireing pin channel on new pistols.

I didn't detail my Glock until about 1K rounds and found no oil in the channel then so if it was there it worked it's way out.

The armorer's manuals actually list light strike problems as being caused in part by carbon build up due to oil or cleaning fluid in the firing pin channel. That's where the no oil in the channel rule comes from. I think the manual also tells you not to lube that area too.

On Glock Talk they figured it was either from manufacturing or from an over eager gun shop employee oiling things. I discount the last one since my shops don't break the seal on the box until the sale.

I've got the word out to my friends who buy new Glocks and now M&Ps to check before they fire. I don't think it's a problem but I'm curious. I guess the manufacturers tell you to clean before firing but they don't tell you to detail it.

Dave

 

[Water-Man]

Blow it out with something like 3M High Power Brake Cleaner spray.

 

[Zeke2839]

Zeke2839, that's interesting. I was just reading a thread on Glock Talk about the same thing. Oil or whatever in the fireing pin channel on new pistols.

I didn't detail my Glock until about 1K rounds and found no oil in the channel then so if it was there it worked it's way out.

The armorer's manuals actually list light strike problems as being caused in part by carbon build up due to oil or cleaning fluid in the firing pin channel. That's where the no oil in the channel rule comes from. I think the manual also tells you not to lube that area too.

On Glock Talk they figured it was either from manufacturing or from an over eager gun shop employee oiling things. I discount the last one since my shops don't break the seal on the box until the sale.

I've got the word out to my friends who buy new Glocks and now M&Ps to check before they fire. I don't think it's a problem but I'm curious. I guess the manufacturers tell you to clean before firing but they don't tell you to detail it.

Dave

My new 9c only has about 100 rds through it, so it may be a little dirty... but not much. Now that I know how to completely disassemble it, I think I will completely wipe the firing pin/assembly dry before going to the range again. I guess I was a little disapointed with this gun after this dryfire occured. Everyone on this website pretty much say they have never had a dryfire. But I hoping that your theory of heavy oil might be the cause. Anyways thanks for your response. I will keep you updated.

 

[CALREB]

The firing pin and channel on any smith/glock/ m+p needs to be clean but no lube. Lube by its self would not cause a missfire,unless heavy grease,or dried grease,but it only serves to attract dirt dust lint carbon etc and form a paste,that when it dries out or gets too much slows the pin down,dried breakfree was the worst, for that matter I dont like grease on any pistol,just attracts grit,there are better metal treatments.
but if you lube the F/P channel or over lube the weapon in general and then leave the weapon loaded ,the lube can penetrate the primer and you get a dud or a poof round where the primer doesnt ignite the powder.
Good reason to change the round in the chamber every so often.Good luck. bob

 

[Peter_S]

...I've got the word out to my friends who buy new Glocks and now M&Ps to check before they fire. I don't think it's a problem but I'm curious. I guess the manufacturers tell you to clean before firing but they don't tell you to detail it.

Dave

Dave,

After reading this and other replies, I decided to check mine. Yeah, it was pretty well oiled. I doubt it was from me because I tend to use lube sparingly on the slide rails and other parts noted in the manual. I dab up any excess so there's never any "loose" oil running around my gun.

As soon as I can get some polymer safe gun scrubber I'll clean it all out.

 

[D Rock]

Peter, I was at the range yesterday and talked to someone using Gunscrubber on their Glock. He told me that the formula had been changed a while back and now all of it is polymer safe.

I don't know if that's true but he told me that's why you only see one type on the shelves now.

Dave

You could try some on the inside of your frame and see if it leaves a mark. I did it on my M&P with and didn't see a problem. I would think that a quick spray wouldn't be a problem but try what you have on your frame first just to be safe.

 

[thomasinaz]

These come pretty oily from the factory, I think due to shipping rust prevention measures. I took both of my new M&Ps apart when new and both had some oily stuff present in the fp area. A good cleaning with some solvent and a dry wipe of the fp and channel, and plasic sleeve, is a good idea when the gun is new and then after every 5k rounds or so. It's never good to oil the firing pin/fp channel for the reasons given in other responses to this post.

 

[R1_Demon]

Are any special tools needed to take out the f/p? I've never taken one out of any of my firearms, but now you all are making me think I should check my new 40c, just in case.

I do have the 40FS armors guide, but haven't really looked it over yet. Is it a fairly simple procedure?

 

[D Rock]

It's pretty easy. You need a small punch or dull screw driver to move the striker sleeve forward. That takes the tension off the slide cover plate so you can remove it.

Here's a link to an M&P Armor's Manual. Scroll down 'till you see it and download the PDF. Should help with pics.
http://www.stevespages.com/page7b.htm

Dave

 

[R1_Demon]

Dave - Thanks for the info!