First "action job"

[Black_Sheep]

Carefully following the instructions in the Kuhnhausen manual I stoned the appropriate places on the rebound slide, sear and top of the trigger bevel. After reassembly it felt better but still not quite as smooth as I had hoped for. A Wilson Combat j frame spring kit and rebound spring tool from Brownell's showed up today so after dinner I swapped the 8lb hammer spring and 14lb rebound spring into my Model 60. The action is noticeably smoother with a slick double action trigger pull. I know it's a fairly simple job but it was a fun learning experience that took much of the mystery out of Smith&Wesson revolver lock work.

My 642 and 625-2 will be getting the same treatment. Is "push off" a concern on the 642? If so, how is it checked?

 

[HEADKNOCKER]

Being a 642 is DAO & can't be cocked for Single Action there is no "Push Off" ..
You'll also notice that the Centennial design doesn't use the hammer block like your M60 has..
Makes you feel good doing the work yourself & knowing what you did & what an improvement it made in the action..
Don't forget to test that M60 with your current carry ammo before puting it into service just in case it has light primer strikes..
Enjoy!!
Gary/Hk

 

[Black_Sheep]

Good advice Gary, I planned to try some different hand loads with CCI and Winchester primers as well as the Remington +P 158 gr. lswchp rounds I use for CC...

 

[butchkent]

Good report. I may need to try that on my Mdl 60 some time. But since I almost always shoot early series 19's, 24's and 29's, such action jobs are not needed.

 

[ref441]

I have installed Wolff/Lee's Red Ramp/Bullseye spring kits in 150-175 various S&W revolvers over the past 25 years. Some turn out better than others; but all are better than the trigger pull from the factory...in my experience.

 

[CTPete]

Carefully following the instructions in the Kuhnhausen manual I stoned the appropriate places on the rebound slide, sear and top of the trigger bevel. After reassembly it felt better but still not quite as smooth as I had hoped for. A Wilson Combat j frame spring kit and rebound spring tool from Brownell's showed up today so after dinner I swapped the 8lb hammer spring and 14lb rebound spring into my Model 60. The action is noticeably smoother with a slick double action trigger pull. I know it's a fairly simple job but it was a fun learning experience that took much of the mystery out of Smith&Wesson revolver lock work.

My 642 and 625-2 will be getting the same treatment. Is "push off" a concern on the 642? If so, how is it checked?

After reading your post, I am now motivated to do my 686.

I have one question...how IS single action push-off checked after installing the spring kit?

 

[Black_Sheep]

Checking push-off:

1. make sure firearm is unloaded!
2. single action cock the hammer
3. place the revolver muzzle down on a bathroom scale, using moderate pressure on the hammer spur push down to a reading of about 16 pounds
4. if the sear does not release there is no push off

Since my previous post I have also swapped the hammer and recoil springs in my 642. Even with the softest rebound spring (13#) in the kit the 642 trigger is harder to squeeze than the Model 60 is with a 14# spring.

Today was range day and both revolvers functioned flawlessly. The firing pin strikes on the primers were as sharp and deep as those fired in my Model 12 with the firing pin on the hammer. I fired 100 rounds through each revolver with no misfires. I plan to fire another 100 or so rounds through each gun to make sure they're 100% reliable but so far, so good...

 

[bmcgilvray]

Not important to the way a Model 642 operates but the hammer on my circa 1998 Model 642-1 has a fully functional single action sear that, with the side plate removed, may be manipulated to full cock. It gives quite a nice "single action" trigger pull too.

 

[NautclRltr]

Thanks for the report. It motivated me to to finally install that Wilson Combat Custom-Tune spring kit that I bought two years ago for my Model 60! First time for me as well and I never would have done it had I not seen this thread. I polished the rebound slide and frame area and made this 30 year old J-Frame the best that it can be. What a difference! I'll buy a couple of boxes and test it in the next month or so. Thanks BlackSheep!