First M&P - Metal Competitor & great customer service

[rbuzz]

The 4 mags (I believe) that come with the Competitor are "Purpose" built with that extra polymer length on the bottom. They are less prone to damage being dropped during a timed mag swap with that extra polymer to absorb some shock. JMHO.

That is a very good possibility. The magazines that come with the Competitor could also be made with the longer baseplate so that it can be easily inserted and still extend past the bottom edge of the magwell, if that is installed.

That's one small criticism I have of the Competitor . If a slightly longer magazine was needed, rather than make a baseplate with that extended hollow section why not put a 2+ basepad on it instead?
I've never heard anyone complaining about having too many bullets in a magazine, except maybe Joe biden, and I don't want to turn this into a political rant.

 

[Maddmax]

That is a very good possibility. The magazines that come with the Competitor could also be made with the longer baseplate so that it can be easily inserted and still extend past the bottom edge of the magwell, if that is installed.

That's one small criticism I have of the Competitor . If a slightly longer magazine was needed, rather than make a baseplate with that extended hollow section why not put a 2+ basepad on it instead?
I've never heard anyone complaining about having too many bullets in a magazine, except maybe Joe biden, and I don't want to turn this into a political rant.

Good question. The (extended) baseplate on the Competitor has an "open" bottom well you can stick your thumb in (from the outside). That sits (holds) the "normal" Floor Plate Catch (that holds the spring bottom) in place. The Floor Plate slides off of that, like a normal M&P magazine does. So, it's interchangeable with other/most M&P FS double stack Mags.

My guess is, it's a "Bumper/Buffer" for mag drops to "save" mag damage while on the run swapping mags.

Here's the "good news" part. IF BY CHANCE, you just happen to have one of the new S&W M&P FPC 9 Foldable Carbines, those 23 round mags that come with that (2-23 round & 1-17 round), WILL also work in the Competitors Magwell Flare, you HAVE to remove the grip adaptor (spacer), just need a good palm slap to make sure it's seated. Better EASIER fit with the Magwell Flare removed, snaps right in has a very small gap, has the distinctive "CLICK" when locked in place and good to go, 23 rounds. Yes, 23 rounds. It does almost double the length sticking out, but it's also 6 more rounds, still all metal mag tube.

The 23 round mag has it's own (different yet) Extended Floor Plate that is taller up the side of the mag, but "normal" thin floor plate. Still swappable with the "Bumper/Buffer" on the Competitor IF you still want that, but makes it even longer in length.

In time, we should be seeing OEM 23 round mags for the M&P FPC 9.

 

[Maddmax]

I have the Metal 4.25" and absolutely love the damn thing. Other than 2 of my 1911's this has been my best (reliability/accuracy) gun out of the box.

My first M&P was the FS 9 with polymer frame when they first came out. I now also have the new all metal FS 9. Also HOT outa the box !!! LOVE IT TOO !!!

Seems I have an M&P collection Everything except the 40's.

 

[rbuzz]

It's good to know that there are options out there for additional magazine capacities. I think I may look into a +2 or maybe bigger base for my magazines even though even the standard Competitor magazines have enough capacity for every day use.

I picked up my new Competitor this afternoon. I am really pleased with it. The two tone IMO is just beautiful. I did carefully check the slide at the FFL for any unwanted slop and am glad to say that it has zero movement when pulling the trigger. I can only assume that the Competitor that another forum member was having trouble with was an isolated incident. I hope S&W takes care of it for him.

Speaking for myself, I am very happy so far with my Competitor. Finish is great, the two tone looks beautiful, and mechanically it seems perfect.

I did take it apart and clean it. I've never seen a pistol that was as dry as this one was. There was a little oil on the barrel lugs, but other than that it was bone dry. I did take care of that and it is much smoother now. I ran a few snap caps through it to check the operation and it passed with flying colors.

One thing I noticed is how smooth the trigger is. It was much smoother than any other M&P trigger I've had in the past. It is a bit heavy at an average of 4 1/2 #, but that should improve with time.

Over all I'm really impressed with the Competitor. Just saying, the last new firearm I got was a Dan Wesson DWX, and the Competitor is a grade or two down from it, but then it cost half as much. For the price the Competitor definitely holds its own and seems like a very well built pistol.

There were a few minor things that could be better. For one, the tool holding the magwell and the palm grips on is a cheap plastic. I tried to be careful in removing it when changing the grip to a larger size, even applying a little oil to it to loosen it up, but I still wound up rounding out the hex head of the tool. I'll call S&W and see if they will send a replacement. Second, the textured part of the grip in the front is slightly loose. Not a big deal, but sometimes I can feel it shift. I think I can apply just a dab of some sort of filler from the inside that will stop that from happening. It's a little disappointing, but really a minor thing. I did install a red dot and was a little concerned about the plastic adaptor plates being plastic. But since no screws actually screw into the plates and they are simply spacers, I don't expect any problems. My DWX at twice the price didn't even come cut for an optic.

Other than that I'm well pleased so far. I hope to take it out to shoot it by this weekend.

 

[Maddmax]

I did take it apart and clean it. I've never seen a pistol that was as dry as this one was.

There were a few minor things that could be better. For one, the tool holding the magwell and the palm grips on is a cheap plastic. I tried to be careful in removing it when changing the grip to a larger size, even applying a little oil to it to loosen it up, but I still wound up rounding out the hex head of the tool. Second, the textured part of the grip in the front is slightly loose.

Other than that I'm well pleased so far. I hope to take it out to shoot it by this weekend.

Mine was on the dry side too. I'm wondering if S&W went to a dry storage lube. My Carbine was like that, but had some kind of dry storage lube. When I rubbed my finger on it, it had a dry whitish film. Little oil on a rag made it disappear. Both got a good scrubbing to eliminate that, then lubed.

My palm grip tool was tight too. It took a little extra push and wobble to get the 5/32nd hex wrench set deep enough to turn it out. But did with no problem. Nice they had a side tab if needed, needle nose would have worked too.

My textured front grip has very little if any play. Not enough to bother with anyway (yet).

Been breaking mine in now shooting. No issues.

 

[rbuzz]

I did read the owners manual to see what S&W recommended for lubrication. First, I have to say I think a firearm need a bit more lubrication than their recommendations. It's not that I think I know more than the manufacturer that built the firearm, but going on my past experience I think that this is not enough to ensure a good functioning handgun and to help eliminate wear.

S&W recommends a total of 8 drops of oil, strategically applied to specified points, to completely lubricate a M&P, stating that over lubrication can be harmful because it can cause dirt and debris to accumulate and hurt the function of the firearm. I agree, but come on, 8 drops of oil?

The included picture is from my owner's manual, just in case no one here has read theirs. It shows S&W's recommendations and the specified one drop per specified spot. I understand that a striker fired pistol doesn't require a lot of lubrication as compared to other styles such as a 1911, but just 8 drops seems like not enough to me.

Maybe I overdo it, but what I do is to apply a very thin bead of a firearm grease (I use Mill-Comm TW25B) to locations 1, 2, 4, and 5, and a drop of oil to the other frame locations shown with arrows. On the barrel I probably use 5 -6 drops of oil and then spread it out to coat the entire barrel using a clean patch. On the slide I like to use Mil-Comm MC3000, which is basically a slightly heavier viscosity oil, and apply a thin bead to the entire length of both slide channels. This slightly thicker oil tends to stick a little better and doesn't just disappear. I don't see any recommendation for lubricating the slide at all in the manual. I usually wind up by wiping the entire slide with a clean, oily patch. The idea is to get a coating of oil on everything, but not so much that the firearm is dripping wet. A thin coating will suffice.

I realize this is a personal thing and everyone has their own ideas on how much and what brand to use, but I have never had problem with any of my firearms due to over or under lubrication.

I didn't mean to get into a long drawn out discussion about this, but I was just surprised to see how dry my M&P was and after seeing S&Ws recommendations in the owners manual, I see why it was so dry.

Again, this is just my way of doing things. Everyone has to decide what works best for them.

 

[Maddmax]

rbuzz. I NEVER use grease on ANY of my weapons.

Discovered Frog Lube when it first came out and never looked back. I use it per the instructions to the letter. Use their cleaner and their lube, along with the heat treatment to open the metals pours. It does stay put, activates itself when heated from firing the weapon. Works in subzero temps to desert heat, wipes down clean. "Might" do a drop on S&W said wear points after wiping down. No harmful odors, safe around kids & pets. Made by Disabled Vets and proceeds go back to help Disabled Vets.

Anyone that complains about Frog Lube ISN'T following the directions to the letter and cutting corners causes problems. It is a slightly lengthy process doing it right the first time.

 

[rbuzz]

I used to be a fan of Frog Lube. In the beginning I heard of so many people who used it and liked it that I decided to give it a try. I followed the instructions religiously and for a while it seemed to work out fine.

I have a M&P 40 that I started having problems with, jamming, misfires. I couldn't even fire more than a couple of rounds without some sort of problem. In all fairness, the pistol did sit for some months after applying Frog Lube and storing it.

After trying to determine what the problem was, it appeared that the Frog Lube had solidified in areas that I had never even applied it. I don't know if it liquified (I would use a hair dryer to heat the metal parts before applying it) and then accumulate in some areas, or what. When all else failed I completely disassembled the firearm and meticulously removed every bit of the hardened Frog Lube. Using a dab of grease on sliding parts and oil on rotating parts, I reassembled it and have never had another problem with it.

Since then I have heard so many people who have had problems with Frog Lube that I have completely abandoned it for my firearms. Like you said, perhaps they weren't following the instructions accurately. I sometimes put a light coating on the polymer grips to give it a shine, but that's it.

In my experience, Frog Lube worked OK on a firearm that was used frequently, but if the firearm sat unused for months, it would harden and even appear to have some sort of brownish substance on it that looked like mold. Maybe I applied a little too much, or failed to wipe all of it off, but I don't think so.

Like I said, I never use it now. I have completely switched to Mill-Comm products although there are many others that would work too. Mill-Comm products are advertised to be derived from lubricants especially formulated for use by the military. I have never had a problem with any of their products.

So that is how I lubricate my firearms. The normal rule that I follow is a grease for sliding parts and oil for rotating parts, and it has served me well.

But everyone has their own way of maintaining their firearms. I guess that's why there are so many different brands and products available. Oil and lubricant technology is like everything else and keeps advancing all the time.

 

[Maddmax]

rbuzz. That was the "trick", getting everything wiped down clean in every nook and cranny after the heat application... I did/do use compressed air (an industrial compressor not "rattle" can) for the final "make sure" nooks and crannies were free of anything.

Also, nothing sits in my collection even close to that. I shoot as much as time allows, my Wife shoots fairly regular too (as her own, but shoots mine too), Kids (3) and their Wife's (total 6) shoot (Mine & their own), Grandkids shoot according to age limitations with adult supervision. I still stand-in now and then for Training & Safety classes. New shooters looking or some would like to test fire something (if I have it), they buy the ammo and do the cleaning, I keep the empties and rarely any unfired rounds.

I did compete over the years, but have backed away from some of that due to Military disabilities and age sneaking up. No longer "High Speed Low Drag", but can still hit what I'm shooting at and teach others better handgun & rifle shooting technics.

As for lube. What ever works best. Shoot it, clean it.

Enjoy and stay safe.

 

[sotexas]

Hope to pick up my gun today. CLP, Pro Sot 1 Step,and Lucas Heavy Duty Oil are my main products the majority of the time.

 

[rbuzz]

Hope to pick up my gun today. CLP, Pro Sot 1 Step,and Lucas Heavy Duty Oil are my main products the majority of the time.

Congratulations on your new Competitor. I think you're gonna like it.
I just took mine out for the first time and put a little over 100 rounds through it. It ran perfectly and is a great shooter. It was a little snappier than I thought it would be, but then I've been shooting all steel guns lately that weigh 40 oz+ compared to the 29 oz lightweight Competitor.