First Revolver is a 642-2

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It's my 3rd S&W, and 1st revolver of any kind. Gonna be a CCW when I get good at shooting it. Bought it brand new Friday evening, so haven't even cleaned it yet. Trying to watch videos with tips on the initial cleaning and oiling. Already see that I need to take the cylinder off and clean and oil the things it spins on (can't remember the name of them). Anyway, my son happened to be at the house when I brought it home and tried to take possession of it as it fit perfect in a remora holster and his pocket. No way Jose. Don't like the lock, but my LGS only had one with it. No biggie.
 
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Just curious why you need to clean and oil the yoke on a new revolver? Is it binding? If not don't worry about it. Just shoot the snot out of it.
Then get a good pocket holster and a bunch of +Ps and you're good to go.:cool:
Jim
 
Just curious why you need to clean and oil the yoke on a new revolver? Is it binding? If not don't worry about it. Just shoot the snot out of it.
Then get a good pocket holster and a bunch of +Ps and you're good to go.:cool:
Jim

Well, need might be too strong of a word, but I am ocd that way. I want to put corrosion x on it instead of whatever S&W put on it. Anyway, I am tempted to take off the side plate and do the same inside. I already bought some +Ps and am going to the range tomorrow and Monday. I can buy some more there at a discount as long as I buy them going in. I buy some .22 every time I go as well. I have a remora it fits in, thought about another cheapo one like uncle mikes or something like that. Also will change the grips as I need some a little bigger, if possible. But I won't change them until I at least shoot it to see how I shoot with them.
 
Glad I took the yoke out and cleaned it as it was filthy. The hollow part took several q tips that were coming out very black. Now I am wondering if I shouldn't go ahead and take the whole front plate off, the hammer, etc, and clean and lube it very good. Then I shouldn't have to take the plate off for another year, I guess. Also, I may learn something about how the gun works. One thing stopping me is I keep getting this vision of some spring I wasn't ready for shooting across the garage and I never find it. Maybe I'll flip a coin. One thing that I'm finding different from the semi autos I have bought is that this revolver has hardly any oil on it whatsoever. Did find some on the inside of the grips when I took them off, but that's about it. That's another reason I want to go inside the plate.
 
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Plenty of videos on youtube about taking apart j-frames. Do yourself a favor and watch them first and you won't have to chase springs across your garage!

Good luck with the new J frame. Just picked up a 638-2 no-dash myself and couldn't be happier.
 
I bought a 642-2 a little over a year ago. Great little gun, but the trigger was heavy. I fixed that with an Apex spring kit. Shoots very well now. Enjoy!
 
Plenty of videos on youtube about taking apart j-frames. Do yourself a favor and watch them first and you won't have to chase springs across your garage!

Good luck with the new J frame. Just picked up a 638-2 no-dash myself and couldn't be happier.

I found some, thanks. It always looks so easy on there, even when they have problems. Congrats on your purchase and good luck to you as well.
 
I bought a 642-2 a little over a year ago. Great little gun, but the trigger was heavy. I fixed that with an Apex spring kit. Shoots very well now. Enjoy!

Did you DIY? Easy to do? May have to look in to it, but I am gonna shoot several hundred rounds first and dry fire it like crazy. I am already practicing staging it to shoot like a single action. Two clicks, and bang.
 
642 grips and springs

Thanks for the Apex spring kit tip. I just bought my wife a new 642 unlocked. The trigger pull is tough and the recoil beat up her hand pretty good after 50 rds. I am wondering if some aftermarket grips might help. The spring kit sounds like it too will help. The revolver is beautiful, and is only 15 oz. I carried it tonight and I never knew it was there. But my normal carry is a .357 sig Glock so big difference. I would appreciate any tips on grips and/or spring kits:) Thanx
 
I think some bigger grips would help, not sure. Ditto the thanks for the Apex kit tips. Saw the videos, looks pretty straightforward. And it will give me a chance to clean and oil some inside.
 
Thanks for the Apex spring kit tip. I just bought my wife a new 642 unlocked. The trigger pull is tough and the recoil beat up her hand pretty good after 50 rds. I am wondering if some aftermarket grips might help. The spring kit sounds like it too will help. The revolver is beautiful, and is only 15 oz. I carried it tonight and I never knew it was there. But my normal carry is a .357 sig Glock so big difference. I would appreciate any tips on grips and/or spring kits:) Thanx[/QUOTE

I'm still looking for the ideal set of J-frame grips, but have found that the Hogue Bantams provide the best balance of concealment, recoil absorption, and control of any grips yet. Ideally, someone should manufacture a set that also cover the backstrap and some down slightly below the butt, but are not much larger than the boot grips.

My best suggestion for the trigger is to first dry fire it a lot. Master the trigger by being able to press to the rear and drop the hammer without disturbing the front sight. Learn to do it against a timer. Unfortunately, the alloy framed revolvers are going to recoil more than a steel frame, even with standard pressure loads, so it is smart to build as much confidence in dry fire as possible and shop for whatever easy shooting training load you can find. I like wadcutters, but understand they're really hard to find anymore without seeking a bulk order or reloading.
 
Walkin trails, thanks for the tip on the Hogue Bantams. I looked at them and saw the Round Butt Rubber, which looks promising to me as it rounds back some in the palm instead of so straight down. Both are only $15, so looks like I might have to drop some hints for my birthday coming up at the end of March. Let's see, in case anyone's interested, my list includes grips, ammo, brand new S&W Clint Eastwood special. A guy can dream, can't he? :)
 
As this is your first revolver I'll offer my take on removing the cylinder and sideplate, FWIW. First, I'm all thumbs so never attempt anything like this. That said I've been carrying & shooting revolvers for well over 40 yrs., never took one apart and never had any problems w/them. Two of my guns date back to the early 1960's and still go to the range.
 
Thanks, Old Cop. So you're saying don't go looking for trouble. That thought crossed my mind. Nothing like experience.
 
If you DO decide to take the side plate off, watch a video, but its pretty easy to do without parts flying out or becoming disrupted.
1) remove the grips
2) with a hollow ground set of gunsmithing screwdrivers, remove the screws from the side plate. The frontmost screw is different than the others, it retains the yoke. put it back in same hole when done.
3) hold the gun in your left hand with your finger over the sideplate and lightly tap the grip frame with a screwdriver handle. the side plate will come loose and pop out, but your finger will hold it in place.
4) gently remove and peek inside, do whatever it is you gotta do.
6) when reinserting the side plate, look for the locking tab at the top, that slides under the recolver frame. Start there, then gently press the bottom back in place.
 

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I put the Apex Duty/Carry kit in my 642-2 less than a week ago. It was easy to do as mentioned above. It has made a significant difference in lowering the pull weight, but more importantly smoothing out the trigger pull.
 
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