I have a 28 no dash I bought used that was aftermarket nickel plated. Whoever plated it got some plating on the yoke bearing surface the cylinder rides upon. I have removed most of the plating, but cylinder still has a drag on 2 charge holes and the extractor also sticks in this area. I am afraid if I try to remove any more plating/underlying metal, I am going to end up changing the bearing surface geometry and make the problem worse. Also, the nickel plating has flaked at the front of the yoke, so a new yoke would also improve the look. Only flaking of the whole gun. Another thing I think is strange is that if the extractor rod is only finger tight, the cylinder rotates freely with no drag. Once it's tightened drag rears its ugly head. Checked concentricy of the extractor rod and it only had a .001 runout.
I have seen for sale an aftermarket plated cylinder and yoke for a 28 for $100. The original 28 has a flat groove with a flat tip yoke screw in frame unlike the more recent V groove with a screw with a cone tip.
How hard is it to fit a yoke-don't need the cylinder. Any special tools needed? The gun shoots fine as is and if it's too big a job for me, I probably won't pay a smith to do it. I have a 627 8 shot and tried to move the yoke on that to see the fit and it looks like it would need some metal removed at the front of yoke to close in the 28 frame.
I have seen for sale an aftermarket plated cylinder and yoke for a 28 for $100. The original 28 has a flat groove with a flat tip yoke screw in frame unlike the more recent V groove with a screw with a cone tip.
How hard is it to fit a yoke-don't need the cylinder. Any special tools needed? The gun shoots fine as is and if it's too big a job for me, I probably won't pay a smith to do it. I have a 627 8 shot and tried to move the yoke on that to see the fit and it looks like it would need some metal removed at the front of yoke to close in the 28 frame.