Flash Hiding a Non-Threaded Barrel?

redrock35

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I recently purchased a SKU#811310 - Model M&P10 Compliant without the flash hider, Threading a barrel for a compensator or in this case a flash hider is likely a relatively simple operation that can be accomplished by any competent machinist( I say with high hopes) any recommendations from someone that found another way or that has had or seen this dealt with? Are the complications I haven't foreseen with the M&P 10? Cost even? I don't live in a overbearing Compliant area, so no concerns there.
 
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You're looking at $100+. It involves removal of the barrel from the upper, mounting it in a lathe between centers, turning the end of the barrel to 0.625 for the proper length and then cutting the threads and reinstalling the barrel. It does help to have the dimensions of the length of the cut necessary.

If the barrel is the right diameter, it might be possible to use hand dies to cut the threads. I'd go with the lathe method.

BTW, installing a recoil compensator generally increases both muzzle flash and blast.
 
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The lathe method is the best route to go. Try and research the muzzle brake or flash hider you want. There are a few comparison reviews out there to check out.

Some brake better than others and some also have some flash hider qualities to them.

Conversely, some flash hiders have some muzzle brake qualities to them as well. The OEM M&P10 flash hider is like that.

Keep in mind, a muzzle brake will be primarily a muzzle brake and will not hide the muzzle flash as well as a flash suppressor will. And a flash hider will primarily hide flash but not brake as well as a dedicated muzzle brake.

Another consideration (maybe) is that your neighboring shooters won't like you as well since most of the blast and noise is redirected to the sides unless you get a linear brake. I'm not exactly sure how they work but they still direct the blast and the noise to the front and provide a braking action.


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This is not a DIY home project. Get it done right.

ADCO will thread the barrel for $65 plus shipping. If you don't want to disassemble the upper they will do it for a fee.
 
These guys make clamp on muzzle brakes: Witt Machine I have used one and they work fantastically. I know they are slightly different than a flash hider, but most brakes work well with reducing the flash.

It's just one way to keep from machining the barrel.

Also, a muzzle brake is a good thing on an M&P10.
 
Turned out well...

I bought the same gun and had it threaded for a brake. Paid about 150 and he timed it and didn't use washers or jam nut.
I wouldn't try to do it yourself. You do it wrong and explode your barrel 150 don't seem like much.Postimage.org / gallery - image, image, image

Looks good, how does it perform? I agree, I'll leave it to someone who has the proper tools and qualifications for sure. Did they include tear down and re-assembling, or did you just bring the upper in?
 
That's great!

This is not a DIY home project. Get it done right.

ADCO will thread the barrel for $65 plus shipping. If you don't want to disassemble the upper they will do it for a fee.

Any idea what the shipping run and what the turnaround time would be?
 
Spot On, Their Guarantee is Amazing

These guys make clamp on muzzle brakes: Witt Machine I have used one and they work fantastically. I know they are slightly different than a flash hider, but most brakes work well with reducing the flash.

It's just one way to keep from machining the barrel.

Also, a muzzle brake is a good thing on an M&P10.

If indeed I do go with a clamp muzzle brake, these look like the guys to go with.... that guarantee sounds great. I'll be researching them more. Thanks.
 
I could be wrong, but S&W doesn't sell em

Is it not cost effective to just buy another barrel

I kind of suspected this going in, as part research into the acquisition process , wish I'd been as diligent on the purchase as well (one with a flash hider vs not)
I don't even see parts being available and have seen others have problems trying to bypass this due to S&W being proprietary.
Someone please point me in the right direction if I am wrong on this. There are exceptions, but some sound like a frankenstein creation when done due to things done to accommodate to interchangeability.
Again, I would 100% love to be mistaken about that.
Thanks for your input.
 
They slip on and are held in place with 2 set screws.
Some people drill a divot where the set screws go for a positive lock.
Don't forget a quality muzzle brake.
 

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