Flitz

[redlevel]

Does it work good on blued guns? I'm laid up with cellulitis in my leg again. Feeling better, but still can't get out. Cabin fever setting in. Got a can of Flitz and some revolvers and a 1911 to work on. Will it be as satisfactory on blued guns as it is on nickel?

 

[mac2]

that's the metal polish right? ISTR (1997!) it was just for "silver" (stainless, nickel) guns - it would make blue guns silver...

 

[Alpo]

I've used it on many blue guns, with no problems. Never a "can", though. Comes in a tube.

Put a little dab of blue gunk on a paper towel and rub it up and down on your blue gun barrel, then look at the paper towel, and it's orange, as it removed rust you couldn't even see.

 

[Out West]

Use it on blue, and you will regret.

I did. And I regret it. It will remove depth of the blue finish. I had a pristine 422 that I used Flitz on. After the application it looked like it had been holstered since manufature. Be very careful.

Out
West

 

[Cooter Brown]

I agree with Out West. I used it--once.

Took the bluing off a spot on a shotgun barrel I was trying to clean up.

 

[5BeansintheWheel]

They do make a gun wax, just don't confuse it with the polish.


Flitz Rifle, Gun & Knife Wax

 

[Andy Griffith]

I've used it on blue, with very good success.

The trick is- never to allow it to dry- and only three or four passes which will take the nasty "dirty" rust off of the blue and make it high gloss again. To tell if your gun has "dirty" rust in the bluing, take a white cleaning patch, put a drop of oil on it and rub it several times across the finish- if it has traces of rust on it, use a little flitz to get it off.

I don't see how it can take off the finish if used correctly- I've used it on my guns for years, and they look better than factory.

 

[Rule3]

Flitz is safe on factory blued guns. There is much debate on this, I have used it many times on many guns.

The 442 is a alloy gun with a clear coat and not like a regular blued gun. It can be used on the cylinder.

 

[Out West]

Flitz is safe on factory blued guns. There is much debate on this, I have used it many times on many guns.

The 442 is a alloy gun with a clear coat and not like a regular blued gun. It can be used on the cylinder.

The slide is steel. The slide was blued. Not so blue now.

Maybe I used it incorrectly. Maybe not. My point: use with caution. Better yet, use something else.

Out
West

 

[ogilvyspecial]

I recondition vintage drums, primariy Ludwig's, and have used gallons of Flitz on all types of surfaces over the years.

Be aware that the paste version, which comes in either cans or tubes is the full strength stuff and the liquid version is diluted down. While I do use the paste for certain items the bulk of my work is done with the liquid Flitz since it's easier to control. The paste tends to get squished into nooks & crannies where I don't want it to go and makes removal more difficult.

One other thing, the paste is supposed to protect similar to a wax and since I apply wax after Flitzing I usually will run the liquid version over the parts that I used the paste on just to remove the protective residue left from the paste.

Flitz is kind of funny in that it takes about 30 to 40 seconds before things start happening, why that is I don't know.
Maybe some sort of chemical reaction?

If working tough oxidation, staining etc. I've found that the bulk of your results are generated when removing the polish and not while actually working it on the part. When up against the "tough stuff" I make sure to get the Flitz doing it's thing by getting it on the areas I am working as soon as possible to get that 30-40 second window going, at least on the first pass, then repeatedly removing & re-applying as needed.

The key thing here is to work under good lighting conditions and pay attention to what's actually happening, which is why I never use mechanical polishing tools. Things can get away from you very fast when you add friction generated heat to the equasion......

If you have any doubts you should use the liquid version and always, and I mean always, never overwork your surfaces. I've seen lot's of damage done by people who thought they were improving on their work by continuing to polish when they had actually moved into the damaging phase. Sometimes less is better.......

Since I already had these photos hosted here is what even the liquid version can do by hand.

Early 70's Ludwig double tom stand base after washing, prior to Flitz.

After being Flitzed, re-washed & waxed........

 

[oldman45]

It is good stuff for what it was made for. Do NOT use it on blued guns.

 

[HAWKEYE10]

I will put my 2 cents worth of advice in on this subject. Be very careful and go slow. If unsure just don't do it. If you get to bored play X's and O's. Don

 

[Onomea]

...I recondition vintage drums, primariy Ludwig's...

Nice job, too!

That's interesting. Do your clients play the reconditioned drums in bands, or are they collectors of drum sets...?

I am always amazed, and, well, pleased, to discover these little market niches, niches of interest to a passionate few, who are out there having a great time involved in something I have never even thought about!

 

[Thuer]

It works well on stainless revolvers and revolvers with no finish at all.
I saw this product on the IWA the Nurnberg Germany.
I tryed it on my second generation SAA Colt from 1973.

The result is very dissapointing. The depth of the bleu is gone. Never felt that sick. I have ruined my great SAA.
Thanks Flits for the good info. NOT

 

[mac2]

It is good stuff for what it was made for. Do NOT use it on blued guns.

It DID say somewhere when I bought it - might have been the gunshop ad where I bought it from. I think its some kind of abrasive or acts in the same way (if that makes sense).

 

[handejector]

Flitz does have a very mild abrasive in it.
Simichrome is said to be have a finer abrasive in it.

I have used Simichrome on blue to remove discoloration in a small area.
Use it LIGHTLY. I do not use a rag, just my fingertip, with LIGHT pressure. I can hardly see the dab I put on my finger. I take it off with old, soft cotton flannel.
Both brands will REMOVE cold blue.

 

[redlevel]

Thanks for all the advice. It appears that one should proceed carefully, especially with a blued gun.

I have a tube of the paste product, but what I'm using is the liquid in the plastic container. On the back of the can is written "Contains NO ammonia or abrasives. Safely cleans, polishes, and protects: Brass, Copper, Nickel, Silverplate, Gold, Bronze, Chrome, Sterling, Stainless Steel, Aluminum, Anodized Aluminum, Pewter, Factory Gun Bluing, Painted Surfaces. Removes: Tarnish, Rust, Water Stains, Oxidation, Finger Prints & Graffiti. Not For: Electroplate.

I don't have the tube of paste handy, but I'll bet it is more abrasive than the liquid.

I think I might try it (the liquid) on a dull-finished shooter-grade Combat Masterpiece I have. I have always thought that some kind of cleaner would help the finish on that gun.

It also says on the can to add one ounce of flitz per pound of cleaning media when tumbling brass. I'll probably give that a try next time I crank up the cleaner.

 

[LoadedRound]

I've had good results with Flitz on blued guns. Always used very carefully. I also try it on a spot under the stocks before I proceed.

 

[handejector]

Duh....
I unrolled my old tube, which is so old it was made in WEST Germany.

It says Non-Abrasive. However, I'm not sure that means exactly that. I THINK that particles below a certain size are considered "polish" by some countries, and not "abrasives".
In other words, a super fine abrasive is merely polishing compound to some countries.
I honestly don't know for sure.
BUT, if you use lots and bear down, blue goes away.

 

[Rule3]

OK folks when in doubt go to the MSDS.

Flitz does contain a mild abrasive (aluminum oxide) and chemicals.

http://www.flitz.com/images/document/MSDS_Flitz Polish_PASTE.pdf

It also states safe for factory hot bluing.

Flitz Metal, Plastic, & Fiberglass Polish

Try a test. Find a a old Blued Magazine. try it with a soft cloth on one side. Now try Hoppes #9 on the other side. I tried this on a new mag that had been sitting in a box for year and had light surface crud on it, the #9 actually got the white patch dirtier.

After cleaning the side with #9 and redid it with Flits and nothing came off.