Ford’s Refinishing Result

Just beautiful! I have a pre-Model 29 that I have owned for 45 years that is about 75% blue. I am thinking about sending it to them for rebluing. Like you I'm going to let the drop in re-sale go to my heirs. I also have a M-57 8 3/8 and a M-58 that will be with me to the end. Thanks for the tip and for sharing your experience!
 
Man, they did a beautiful job on your model 57. And you are making me have a hard decision to make too.

I have a model 27-2 I bought a few years ago as a shooter and it has a non-factory nickel job done on it. And the nickel plating is flaking at the end of the barrel, so I've been thinking hard on sending it out to get refinished back in nickel. I've been thinking of sending it back to S&W for the job, but looking at that job Ford's did on yours, they look to be a viable choice too. I might go the S&W route and see how their nickel finish compares to the Ford's finish you got done.
 
Shark Bait said:
I'm wondering if they could bring "Frankenstein's Mistress" back from the dead.
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Yes. That said, the cost rises above that for refinishing. They brought a friend's pre-war Magnum back from VERY DEAD (structural damage) to simply gorgeous. That likely cost in excess of $1,000 (and took a looooooooong time), and I think the refinish charge at that time was considerably less than half that. I know they told him they hoped he wouldn't send another one like that.

Ralph Tremaine
 
jmclfrsh said:
BTW, before we go there, I'm not worried one iota about resale value. This is a pinned and recessed Model 57, shipped the year I graduated high school, 1978. I feel fortunate to have it.

This baby is going nowhere, until it goes to my nephew in the future. I won't miss it, either...only because I'll be pushing up daisies!
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That's the right attitude to have when you're doing something like this. You're looking at the future of the gun, itself, in a non-monetary way...plus you've had the work done with a specific purpose in mind.

I'm sure the gun will be a source of pride and memories for generations to come.
 
rct269 said:
Fords "Master Blue" is superior to the factory finish---superior in that the preparation (polishing) is done by hand, and to a higher degree (shinier). You can see the difference in the final product across a good sized room. The color is typically a bit darker---also noticeable from afar.

Ralph Tremaine
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In the car show game, this is known as "overrestored."
So what do you ask Ford's for if you just want it to look like new?
They have "deluxe," "Ford," and "master" blue, so is "Ford" blue comparable to S&W blue?
Looks like the only choices for plating are brush or matte or way shiny like the OP's.

Colt has the same problem. Ask them for a Royal Blue and you get something a lot shinier than my 1970s Python was when new.
 
That is a beautiful 57 to say the least. I understand your not be concerned with resale value. My 2 Pythons are the same. Both also made in 1978 the year I graduated high school. My Pythons stay with me and will be passed to my brother when I check out.
 
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THAT'S A GOOD QUESTION!!

Jim Watson said:
In the car show game, this is known as "overrestored."
So what do you ask Ford's for if you just want it to look like new?
They have "deluxe," "Ford," and "master" blue, so is "Ford" blue comparable to S&W blue?
Looks like the only choices for plating are brush or matte or way shiny like the OP's.

Colt has the same problem. Ask them for a Royal Blue and you get something a lot shinier than my 1970s Python was when new.
Click to expand...

You may already have the answer---never mind you don't know what you know. If the terms "deluxe", "Ford", and "master" all came from them, then you're ahead of me already. I haven't paid any attention to Fords for years---having had no need. (Their term "master" is the only one I know/recall.) "Shinier" comes from the degree of polish---the grit used. If this terminology comes from them, then they know not only what those grits are, e.g. 400, 600, 800---whatever; but more importantly, also what they translate to in terms of more shiny/less shiny.

In years past when I've been asked essentially this same question---"How do I get something that looks more like factory and less like a piece of jewelry?", I've simply told them to tell Fords to stop polishing sooner. Now, when "sooner" is is a question for Fords. They'll know what degree of grit/polish is going to match/come closest to matching S&W's finish---and accordingly, when to stop polishing. Or possibly in this case, which choice you should make------"deluxe", "Ford", or "Master".

Ralph Tremaine

I've only had two guns refinished in my lifetime. Both were what I call S&W's matte blue when they left Springfield---and I wanted "Bright Blue". I could have had "Bright Blue" at the outset, but that was a special order----and I was told it would take six months. I didn't want to wait. I bought what was in front of me, and shipped it back for refinishing. I had "Bright Blue" in a couple of weeks.
 
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As already stated in numerous previous posts, that is stunning! I'm a big fan of the 41 Mag, but not so much of nickel, but oh my, is that nice. As I'm in the final stages of getting ready to ship one out for a reblue and looking for recommendations, I appreciate your sharing this quality work! Thanks again and best of luck with it! Bill in MA
 
I don't usually like nickel guns, I've been changing my mind as of late. I think my next purchase is gonna be nickel.
 
Looks awesome! I have a 28-2 with them right now. It was nickled at somepoint after it left S&W, but it was cloudy and chipping off at the muzzle. Ford's is redoing it in the proper matte blue. They have had it since June. I really can't wait to get it back! Helps that the only money I have in it is about half of the cost at Ford's (a friend got me a gift certificate to get me to have it reblued). Thinking about getting a set of those Altamont cokes for it.
 
Ok, being charitable, I'm uncouth. ;) I looked through their website. Approximate cost to reblue a 17-2?
 
Jim NNN said:
Oldster, is your problem that some shippers - like UPS or Fedex - tell you that you HAVE to ship the gun overnight air, for no other reason than it's a handgun? UPS did that with me on a Heritage single action revolver warranty repair to Florida. Cost me like $85 to send it. I was mad, because most of my gunbroker purchases come to me by 3rd day or ground and cost anywhere from $35 on down to $15, depending on where they come from. It's a racket of some sort.

Nobody can tell me why the double standard. Maybe FFL's get a lower rate. In that case, sending the gun to the refinishing facility might be more thrifty if going out through a local FFL. They shouldn't have a fee for that because there may not be any paperwork, but you might have to give them five bucks for their trouble. According to my FFL, however, anytime an FFL takes possession of a gun, paperwork is required, even if they aren't buying the gun (eg, consignment). This MIGHT mean you have to hang out in his store until the UPS guy comes. I don't know. Just speculating.
Click to expand...
UPS and FedEx charge you for a gun because they can! Fed regs state ONLY an FFL can ship a firearm via USPS! Therefore a private party must ship via FedEx or UPS and the Fed Regs state you must tell the shipper what he is shipping! Deep in the fine print of the FedEx and UPS regs there is a clause that a firearm must ship by Overnight shipment, so they charge what ever they feel like charging that day!
jcelect
 
Ford Blue or S&W High Bright?

rct269 said:
You may already have the answer---never mind you don't know what you know. If the terms "deluxe", "Ford", and "master" all came from them, then you're ahead of me already. I haven't paid any attention to Fords for years---having had no need. (Their term "master" is the only one I know/recall.) "Shinier" comes from the degree of polish---the grit used. If this terminology comes from them, then they know not only what those grits are, e.g. 400, 600, 800---whatever; but more importantly, also what they translate to in terms of more shiny/less shiny.

In years past when I've been asked essentially this same question---"How do I get something that looks more like factory and less like a piece of jewelry?", I've simply told them to tell Fords to stop polishing sooner. Now, when "sooner" is is a question for Fords. They'll know what degree of grit/polish is going to match/come closest to matching S&W's finish---and accordingly, when to stop polishing. Or possibly in this case, which choice you should make------"deluxe", "Ford", or "Master".

Ralph Tremaine

I've only had two guns refinished in my lifetime. Both were what I call S&W's matte blue when they left Springfield---and I wanted "Bright Blue". I could have had "Bright Blue" at the outset, but that was a special order----and I was told it would take six months. I didn't want to wait. I bought what was in front of me, and shipped it back for refinishing. I had "Bright Blue" in a couple of weeks.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Ralph! If I followed this correctly, you shipped the the factory guns back to S&W for the refinish. Did I get that right? Do you, or does anybody else out there have any experience with S&W's refinishing of an abused gun? I just picked up a Model 49 (no dash) with a J-prefix serial number in the low 200K range. The gun appears sound in all mechanics, but like most of the breed, it spent most of its life in a holster or pocket and has some rust and what I'd describe as light pitting on the top strap and upper frame. I'm planning on using it as a carry gun, but I'd like to clean up the cosmetics a bit. It looks as if it started with the S&W Bright Blue. S&W's website quotes $275 for "High Bright Polish," exactly the same as Ford's "Ford" blue. Any recommendations?
BTW, Ralph, I did finish one set of replica grips for the Straight Line, not perfect, didn't exactly reproduce the reverse teardrop profile, but close. I got busy with work and moving, but I'm about 10 days retired and relocated to Prescott, AZ now, so I'll have time for a second try, as soon as I get my shop set up. Thanks again!

Jim Rickett
 
JGR_LV said:
Thanks, Ralph! If I followed this correctly, you shipped the the factory guns back to S&W for the refinish. Did I get that right? Do you, or does anybody else out there have any experience with S&W's refinishing of an abused gun? I just picked up a Model 49 (no dash) with a J-prefix serial number in the low 200K range. The gun appears sound in all mechanics, but like most of the breed, it spent most of its life in a holster or pocket and has some rust and what I'd describe as light pitting on the top strap and upper frame. I'm planning on using it as a carry gun, but I'd like to clean up the cosmetics a bit. It looks as if it started with the S&W Bright Blue. S&W's website quotes $275 for "High Bright Polish," exactly the same as Ford's "Ford" blue. Any recommendations?
BTW, Ralph, I did finish one set of replica grips for the Straight Line, not perfect, didn't exactly reproduce the reverse teardrop profile, but close. I got busy with work and moving, but I'm about 10 days retired and relocated to Prescott, AZ now, so I'll have time for a second try, as soon as I get my shop set up. Thanks again!

Jim Rickett
Click to expand...
Three years ago my friend sent in a rusted and pitted 29-5, which also had major mechanical issues.The factory repaired and re blued in their standard finish.The gun came back looking new.The only drawback is the jet black blue they currently use is known to be a little delicate against certain solvents.
 
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