Found another Model 1 1/2 single action, is it worth the price ? ))Edited with pics((

F75gunslinger

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So the LGS had a guy in there today with a different model 1 1/2 than the last one I looked at . Also a .32 S&W, also nickel, 4 " barrel ( ? ) in very good shape ( I'd say 80-90% ). Locks up very tight, minor marks in a couple spots where the nickel is wearing. From what the owner said, the gun has not been refinished. Bore and cylinder are clean . All markings are very sharp, hammer,extractor and trigger are dark, not nickeled. Serial number in the 3900 range. He is looking to get $350 out of it. Add to that the transfer fee and it'll be $390 out the door. Owner also told me he'd give me a full box of shells he has for it.

Am I wrong to think that this is roughly what it's worth ? I am interested, but want to make sure it isn't priced higher than what the gun is worth.
 
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Look at it this way: Regardless of today's price, tomorrow's price will be higher. If the same thought expressed with more words becomes more convincing----------------"It is not possible to pay too much for a good gun. It is only possible to pay whatever the price too soon." Given that you buy a good gun too soon, the remedy is to do nothing----just sit and wait.

Ralph Tremaine
 
I don't fully agree with RCT in the idea that the value will always go up.(80-90% isn't prime collector condition and I see less interest in general for antiques by the younger generations)
To me, the question is; What is it worth to you?Would you rather have $390 or the gun? Some might not want it for 200, others would be happy to pay 400.There is no firm buy and ask price for this stuff like the stock market. And if you like it and supposedly pay $50 more than the consensus here,or lose $50 on it one day, is that a big issue for the enjoyment that you received?
I know of no other hobby where there is so much concern about possibly paying too much, yet it's one where if you have just a decent amount condition appraising capability, it's one of the safest. I'm also of the opinion that most dealers know what they have, and price it fairly.They need to turn a buck,and they're not running a museum.
 
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I don't believe there should be any transfer fee on an antique gun.

I'm in NY, same as the OP. For me there is no transfer fee for a LGS purchase. A big part of the 40 is sales tax.He might have to pay a fee to have it put on his license,as I do.
 
Is this a Mod 1 1/2 (old model) 32 Rimfire, or a Mod 1 1/2 (Mew Model) .32 Centerfire?

I'm taking a guess this is a (new mod) centerfire. If you look in the SCSW4 you will see an Exc+=$700, and an Exc=$500, and an (antique) Fine = $375, and a VG = $300. If I understand correctly it is at least 80% it would be (antique) Fine and valued at about 375.

Sounds like the dealer has it priced very accurately.
 
MY "INVESTMENTS"

I don't fully agree with RCT in the idea that the value will always go up.(80-90% isn't prime collector condition and I see less interest in general for antiques by the younger generations)
To me, the question is; What is it worth to you?Would you rather have $390 or the gun? Some might not want it for 200, others would be happy to pay 400.There is no firm buy and ask price for this stuff like the stock market. And if you like it and supposedly pay $50 more than the consensus here,or lose $50 on it one day, is that a big issue for the enjoyment that you received?
I know of no other hobby where there is so much concern about possibly paying too much, yet it's one where if you have just a decent amount condition appraising capability, it's one of the safest. I'm also of the opinion that most dealers know what they have, and price it fairly.They need to turn a buck,and they're not running a museum.

When the whole REMLIN thing got going I bought 2 JM Marlin 336's in 35 Rem, hoping the value would go up somewhat like the Winchester levers. :o I didn't lose $, but didn't make much either.
 
The gun is a .32 centerfire.

I'm in NY, same as the OP. For me there is no transfer fee for a LGS purchase. A big part of the 40 is sales tax.He might have to pay a fee to have it put on his license,as I do.

This would be a private sale between 2 individuals, so the dealer has to do a background check and a transfer . If I was buying it from the shop there wouldn't be a transfer fee. To add it to my permit it's $5.
The nice thing here (Livingston County ) is that I can buy purchase coupons for $3 to keep with me. So I go, find a gun I want, buy it,do the NICS check, then go to the county clerks office within 10 days to add the gun to my permit. In many counties you have to buy the gun, take the receipt to the clerks office, get the gun put on your permit, get the purchase coupon ( small green card )then you can go pick it up. The coupon is good anywhere in NY, so if I find a gun on a trip or whatever it doesn't take all the screwing around that it would if I lived in another county.

I don't believe there should be any transfer fee on an antique gun.

If I want to take it anywhere to shoot it or transport it it has to be on my pistol permit. With the age it may be exempt if I don't have ammo for it and don't carry it. Blackpowder guns are that way. If you don't own powder or ball for it then it doesn't have to be on your permit.
 
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Didn't realize that it wasn't a purchase directly from the LGS.
For you non NYers, we also have to do all long gun transfers at a FFL.
 
Sounds pathetic but I used to live in Massachusetts and it's as bad. I got smart and moved to GA

Check gunbroker and the like and see what something similar is selling for. The rule of thumb on an auction is something similar is roughly worth the third highest bid
 
When the whole REMLIN thing got going I bought 2 JM Marlin 336's in 35 Rem, hoping the value would go up somewhat like the Winchester levers. :o I didn't lose $, but didn't make much either.

Buying guns on short term speculation is never a good thing. I think you either need to buy them at a bargain price, or keep them long enough to ensure they do go up.
Or buy guns because you love them, and not worry about profiting later.
 
The only guns I would see as an investment are some fine English doubles and maybe some specific old Colts or Winchesters and even then it is iffy. The biggest problem is not long term asset appreciation but liquidity. If you need to sell, unlike stocks or bullion for example, you need to find a buyer and there isn't always one. I do buy them and try to pay what I think is a fair price and maybe even look for bargains but not with the idea that they will appreciate over time.

Remember an object isn't worth what you pay for it but what you can sell it for and unless there is a specific buyer at hand book value is worth just that, the value in a book
 
Check gunbroker and the like and see what something similar is selling for. The rule of thumb on an auction is something similar is roughly worth the third highest bid

On Gunbroker, that's not that far from the truth!
 
Sounds pathetic but I used to live in Massachusetts and it's as bad. I got smart and moved to GA

Check gunbroker and the like and see what something similar is selling for. The rule of thumb on an auction is something similar is roughly worth the third highest bid

It could be argued that the high bid is what it was worth.
(to the buyer)
 
I used to collect knives and it was the rule we used for eBay. Why the third highest bid? Let's say the knife sells for $385. The second highest bid is $380 and the third $300. Next time one like it comes up the high bidder already has one so all the second bidder, who went to $380 before, needs to beat is $300 so he gets it for $305.

Yes it's a rough rule of thumb but it gives you a rough idea of what you could sell it for not what one person, who now has one, would pay
 
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The reason I ask is because I have no idea what these guns go for. I can look on Gunbroker for completed sales, but in some instances ( this is one) the prices are all over the map.

Just like any gun, various finishes,barrel lengths,revisions, and condition has A LOT to do with the value and selling price. But also with any gun of age, someone who is a collector or has experience with them may be able to tell me something that will help me, or even tell me that the price is too high. I'm not buying the gun as a short term investment, but rather just the fact that I like the age and "history" of a gun like that. The wonder of where it has been and what it has seen. At the same time though, if the gun is worth $300 and I end up paying closer to $400, the extra $100 can go to SO many other things. So I come here to ask in hopes that a more experienced enthusiast will have some input based on their own experience in the hobby.
 
There's two or three rough spots ( not quite pitting but a few dark spots ) on the one I was looking at, nickel is still clear and shiny. From what I was told, the gun was an old woman's fathers and was very rarely used. When she took possession it went in a sock in a box in the closet.
 
The only guns I would see as an investment are some fine English doubles and maybe some specific old Colts or Winchesters and even then it is iffy. The biggest problem is not long term asset appreciation but liquidity. If you need to sell, unlike stocks or bullion for example, you need to find a buyer and there isn't always one. I do buy them and try to pay what I think is a fair price and maybe even look for bargains but not with the idea that they will appreciate over time.

Remember an object isn't worth what you pay for it but what you can sell it for and unless there is a specific buyer at hand book value is worth just that, the value in a book

I've offered loads of prime guns on gun sale sites,and here, and loads of other stuff on ebay,all at what I consider very fair prices.For most of it,especially $1000+guns, you'd be surprised how long it just sits there.Often as not, it seems to be a matter of finding the one and only guy out there that wants it.
Whether the price is 390 or 290 out the door, there won't be a line of guys wanting it.Sounds like you're more comfortable at the lower range.
 
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