Frame Key Plug...help.

[bigdaddybluesman]

I bought a nice M&P 40 I am rebuilding. I have a bunch of APEX parts and S&W factory parts.

I cannot find a frame key plug. This at one time had a safety and it was removed which is fine but they did not put a plug in. Everybody that carried them are out of stock as with so much of the S&W parts.

Do I have to call S&W? For such a small little part? HELP!!! Please. Also do I need the frame plugs? There are 2 that go into the frame, I don't see a place for them on this gun. The frame plugs and frame key plug are different.

I also ordered a Stormlake conversion barrel to 9mm. I looked at the new .40 magazines and the follower says .40 but in reality they are the same as 9mm so I don't have to buy more 9mm mags which is great.

I like the .40 and ammo prices dropped but the reality is that if I ever have to use it the true terminal and wound ballistics are close enough as to not matter when using quality bonded JHP bullets. Especially +P 9mm like a Ranger T 127 +P+ which is almost equal to .357 SIG in terms of velocity and energy.

Anyway this will be a test gun for modifications. This is my third M&P fullsize gun and I really like them. I'm looking at a 9c in the future for possible carry, this on is probably ging into the car eventually.

Another thing I want to address to all fellow M&P shooters and enthusiasts. I took the gun apart and low and behold it had some broken parts in it. The trigger had a slight crack but what surprised me was that the plastic piece that's on the striker assembly was cracked. In my limited knowledge of firearms design I would think that would be a place that does take a lot of abuse. Did this crack from using .40 caliber ammo since it is the same as the 9mm part? The gun is a bit older and was worked on a little but it does look like the M&P 40 might not stand up to .40 as well as 9mm. Does anybody have any info on this?

Thanks

 

[Rastoff]

Do I have to call S&W? For such a small little part? HELP!!! Please. Also do I need the frame plugs? There are 2 that go into the frame, I don't see a place for them on this gun. The frame plugs and frame key plug are different.

I don't know what you mean by a "frame key" plug. I'm familiar with the two that fill the holes left when the thumb safety is removed, but not this frame key plug you're talking about. If it's just the frame plugs for the holes left from the removed safety, you don't need them. They are just cosmetic and the gun will work fine without them.

Yes, you can call S&W and they will probably send you a pair.

I also ordered a Stormlake conversion barrel to 9mm. I looked at the new .40 magazines and the follower says .40 but in reality they are the same as 9mm so I don't have to buy more 9mm mags which is great.

Yes, you'll need 9mm mags. The follower might be similar, but the feed lips are not. The 9mm cartridges probably won't stay in the mag because the feed lips are further apart. At least they won't stay in my .40 mags.

 

[bigdaddybluesman]

Yup feed lips look like they just cut the metal a little shorter to make them wider. Oh well anybody want to trade mags?

Frame key plug...
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/frame-parts/frame-hardware/frame-plugs/frame-key-plug-prod24130.aspx]

 

[Rastoff]

OK, I thought I knew a thing or two about the M&P, but that's a new one on me. Is that a plug to cover the internal lock? You can see it in this pic:

If that is indeed what we're talking about, and you need one for your gun, then the gun didn't come from the factory with a thumb safety. The M&Ps that have the internal lock were not cut for the thumb safety at the factory. However, some people did their own modification to the frame so they could add a thumb safety later.

The point is, if your gun has an internal lock, the factory frame plugs won't fit the frame cut outs because they were done by a previous owner and not the factory.

 

[WR Moore]

The factory makes & sells frame plugs for the key safety hole as illustrated in the picture Rastoff posted. The key safety was optional on LE firearms. Those ordered without them came plugged. I do believe Brownells sells the plugs, check the web site.

I would not expect them to offer the plugs for the thumb safety. The key lock plugs might work. If not, there's always black RTV. Black epoxy if you're brave.

OP, about the "cracked piece" in the striker assembly....the only plastic part I recall on the striker is the retaining collar for the spring. (Oops, forgot the sleeve.) That's two parts-three if it's original and early-so that the spring can be installed. Could your "crack" be the joint in the retaining collar? LE armorers can get all those parts and replace only what's worn. The rest of us get assemblies so we can't screw them up.

 

[bigdaddybluesman]

Thanks guys, working on it all. I got most of the parts that are important and should be shooting it next week.

My friend was on with S&W to get parts for his business for 45 minutes today and hung up, he's a gunsmith.

 

[bigdaddybluesman]

I lost a part and had to find one online. My gunsmith said everybody does it. The take down lever retaining wire.

It's so difficult to find parts for M&Ps.

I'm just waiting for it and should have the gun next week. I let y'all know how it shoots.

 

[ATF]

Since you are ordering a frame plug I would also suggest getting a spare takedown lever spring and a striker spring cap which fits under the rear sight. These 3 items are hard to find and easily lost. I would also recommend getting one or two of these too:
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...998.aspx?avs|Manufacturer_1=STRIKE INDUSTRIES
Especially if you intend to use hot loads, which I wouldn't recommend except for PD. 18 x 115 gr 9mm JHP standard pressure are really enough to resolve any defense situation.

 

[bigdaddybluesman]

Sorry to correct you but the only 115 grain JHP recommended for use is the Barnes full copper bullet in a +P+ loading. The actual best is either Gold Dot 124 +P or Federal HST 124 +P both made by ATK. Some other good performers are the new 147 grain rounds from ATK and the latest G2 147 grain Gold Dot.

The Remington golden sabers are a distant second as is the Hornady Critical duty 135 +P loading. A debatable but interesting round is the Winchester Ranger T 127 grain +P+. It has some good reports from LE in Florida as per Massad Ayoob. Although the +P+ is not a SAMMI loading as far as I know.

Those buffers are NOT recommended to be used by any competent gunsmith I know.

Why do you say hot loads are not recommended except for LEO? I don't understand that statement. What is 18x115?

 

[ATF]

Those buffers are NOT recommended to be used by any competent gunsmith I know.

Why do you say hot loads are not recommended except for LEO? I don't understand that statement. What is 18x115?

There is a lot a personal opinion on +P and +P+ ammo. I use 115 gr in standard pressure because it works for me. I said I would only recommend hot loads for PD (Personal Defense) not for the range due to the stress they will put on your gun.
I've used those buffers for years and I've found them to significantly reduce recoil, for the price they're worth a try.
18x115 means 18 rounds of 115 gr 9mm, 17 in the mag one in the chamber.

 

[Ky Bob]

I just got off the phone with a lady at S&W and she is going to ship me the key plug for free! Can't beat that for good CS.