Frog Lube and the heating process

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Another question from the newbee. Watched a You Tube video on applying Frog Lube. The presenter cleaned the slide and barrel of a Glock with Simple Green first and then heated both with a hair dryer before brushing on the product. No problem. He did not show how he cleaned and heated the metal parts of the frame. I can see cleaning the metal surfaces with the
cleaner and q-tips or cotton balls. Can you safely heat up the polymer frame the same way?

Thanks.
 
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I just borrowed Mrs. Llando88's hair dryer to heat everything, including the frame.

Standard field strip, heat (Ouch! allow barrel to cool off a bit - that metal gets hot! :) ) all parts uniformly.

Apply paste sparingly.

Allow to sit a few minutes.

Wipe off everything you can see, reassemble.

I did that on mine, these days, I just use a little of the liquid FL CLP to maintain / clean the parts. Mainly a few drops in the barrel, a small amount on a Q tip or Cleaning 2x2 in and around the slide.

Then I use a Hoppe's bore snake a few times on the barrel, run a damp patch or two through, then a couple dry patches with a jag, then wipe everything down, then put it all back together.

I have most of my small bottle of liquid CLP still, amazing how little FL you actually end up using.

Gun runs perfect.
 
I disassemble and strip the entire pistol with Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner from my local auto parts store and blow it out with compressed air before moisture condenses on the parts. Then I set my wife's oven to 170 degrees F. and warm the parts buy placing them in the preheated oven on a clean flat pan. After they warm up (I give it about 20 minutes) I brush on the paste or spray on the liquid Frog Lube. Give it a liberal (did I say liberal) coating. Then place it back on the pan and in the oven again. I give it about 30 minutes this time. Then I take it out. While still warm but touchable, I wipe all the Frog Lube off I possibly can with the microfiber cloth. Then while still warm I blow everything out with compressed air and wipe it down again. Then I place it back in the oven for a final 15 minutes. After that I try to get every bit of Frog Lube off with compressed air and the microfiber cloth.
It takes a little time to season your pistol the right way but you'll be rewarded many years with a well lubed firearm that is easy to clean.
And to clean it, I use a soft toothbrush with a little liquid FL and brush it on the dirty parts of the pistol. Wipe it down with the microfiber cloth and reassemble. Easy.
 
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I disassemble and strip the entire pistol with Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner from my local auto parts store and blow it out with compressed air before moisture condenses on the parts. Then I set my wife's oven to 170 degrees F. and warm the parts buy placing them in the preheated oven on a clean flat pan. After they warm up (I give it about 20 minutes) I brush on the paste or spray on the liquid Frog Lube. Give it a liberal (did I say liberal) coating. Then place it back on the pan and in the oven again. I give it about 30 minutes this time. Then I take it out. While still warm but touchable, I wipe all the Frog Lube off I possibly can with the microfiber cloth. Then while still warm I blow everything out with compressed air and wipe it down again. Then I place it back in the oven for a final 15 minutes. After that I try to get every bit of Frog Lube off with compressed air and the microfiber cloth.
It takes a little time to season your pistol the right way but you'll be rewarded many years with a well lubed firearm that is easy to clean.
And to clean it, I use a soft toothbrush with a little liquid FL and brush it on the dirty parts of the pistol. Wipe it down with the microfiber cloth and reassemble. Easy.

The polymer won't melt at 170?
 
Ovens are for baking cookies. All that time to apply that stuff when I could be shooting or enjoying a cookie my wife made in the oven. I'll just stick to Pro 7.
 
I just watched some vids on this frog lube , then checked what it cost & holy penny's batman I just can't see it. Now maybe if I were going to live the woods or desert for a year & not be able to take proper care of my weapons.
But I use mine for HD, SD, hunting & just the plain fun of shooting
I clean & lube them often, even the old ones that mostly stay put up I take out regularly & check to make sure they are happy & doing fine.
Not going to leave any of them in the rain or snow & if I am out in that I would take care of them asap.
BUT to each his own : )
 
I just watched some vids on this frog lube , then checked what it cost & holy penny's batman I just can't see it. Now maybe if I were going to live the woods or desert for a year & not be able to take proper care of my weapons.
But I use mine for HD, SD, hunting & just the plain fun of shooting
I clean & lube them often, even the old ones that mostly stay put up I take out regularly & check to make sure they are happy & doing fine.
Not going to leave any of them in the rain or snow & if I am out in that I would take care of them asap.
BUT to each his own : )

Indeed to each his own, I agree and support you wholeheartedly.

But to those reading your comment, I wanted to say I've used my $19 bottle of 4 oz Froglube CLP for 12 months, including the initial cleaning.

I have about 2.5 oz left.

At the rate I'm using it, it will probably be two to three years before I buy another $19 bottle.
 
Indeed to each his own, I agree and support you wholeheartedly.

But to those reading your comment, I wanted to say I've used my $19 bottle of 4 oz Froglube CLP for 12 months, including the initial cleaning.

I have about 2.5 oz left.

At the rate I'm using it, it will probably be two to three years before I buy another $19 bottle.

& on the other end I saw this for $52.19 ,
BUT i sure don't want to discourage anyone from taking care of their fire arm by any means they want. I got a snake bore cleaner for $15 the wife said but you already have a perfectly good rod.
A1bjpiFJWCL._SL1500_.jpg
 
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^^^ Indeed!

I gotcha lol. That is maybe 20 years worth of product.

PS I've gotten that same reaction from Mrs Llando88, in exactly the same scenario. :)
 
I use a Harbor Freight heat gun, on low heat, with the Frog Lube. Works great!!! Currently own five handguns, and only used less than half of a 8 oz tub, in a year.
 
If FL migrates into your firing pin, you will get lite primer strikes.
 
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Some people are making the heating process a whole lot more complicated than it needs to be. A hair dryer is all you need to heat up the parts, or if you want to go with an even simpler method, just place the parts of your gun in a pan in the bright sunlight for several minutes. The hot sun will heat your parts perfectly. It's not like you have to raise the temperature that much.
If it's too hot for you to handle, it's hotter than it really has to be to apply Froglube. If you can see the Froglube liquify and spread when you apply it, then it's hot enough.
 
Some people are making the heating process a whole lot more complicated than it needs to be . . . If you can see the Froglube liquify and spread when you apply it, then it's hot enough.
In addition to Mr. RBuzz's sunlight suggestion, which really works well here in Arizona, a plain old heat lamp works well for me, day or night.
 
Frog lube has improved every gun I own. Semi auto pistols slide more smoothly and everything feels better. So easy to use and it does not really collect spent gun powder, making it easier to clean next time. Love it.
 
Per their web site.

"For best results, apply heat to area to be treated. Heat from a heat lamp, heat blower or ambient sunlight is more than sufficient Heat. Although not required, you will find that 15 min of direct sunlight or equivalent allows for thorough application of FrogLube. When the surface is warmed, the rate of FrogLube absorption is increased. - "

Directions for Use | FrogLube
 
I started using Froglube the day I bought my Pro Core. I read the part about heating the metal, but had the typical "guy" response. I don't need no heat. So I just slathered it on, let it sit for a while and then wiped it all off. I use a touch of the paste on the slide guides. I now have 60K rounds through that pistol (or more, I have trouble keeping track). I clean the pistol every week or so (1000-1500 rounds) I shoot it 6 days a week. Still running like new. I've replaced the trigger return spring and striker assembly. I don't know if my case is a fair example, in reality my pistol never sits around for very long. I use the ammo to heat it up :D
 

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I've used FrogLube ever since I purchased my M&P 40c two years ago. Personally, I use a hair dryer to warm it (including the frame and mags). It's non-toxic and my wife likes the scent. I've removed and cleaned the firing pin (pretty much just to prove to myself I could do it). Everything works as it should. Here in Las Vegas, it's hot in the summer and cold in the winter. After a few thousand rounds, never a problem or failure.
 
During the year under normal use, I don't do the heating process. I just clean it up and apply a few drops of Frog Lube where directed after I shoot and its good to go. Once a year during the winter months, I'll break everything down and clean and then heat treat everything. I've got a pellet stove in my basement that I just place the parts on top of...10-15 min later they are nice and warm and all metal surfaces get a coating of the paste. I've only got a small collection of weapons (5), but the bottle of liquid and the paste should last me at least as many years if not more.
 

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