Frog Lube

Frogs

LGS was a big Frog Lube supporter and dealer. The owner being a gunsmith stopped carrying it because of the amount of non or semi functioning guns brought in to be de-gunked of FL for lack of a better term. Customer complaints were bad enough for him to quit carrying the product.
 
I've had CLP Break Free do the same thing....gummed up several rifles and two handguns.
I went back to Rem Oil , Liquid Wrench Dry Lube and sometimes use Marvel Mystery Oil and good old 3 in 1 .
Another good line of lubes is the Blaster brand , I have not had any of the general purpose lubricant go gummy , they have several different types of lubes and available at Home Depot and reasonably priced to boot.
 
I've been through several generations on military cleaning nostrums and potions.
RBC aka Rifle Bore Cleaner (MIL-C-327) was great for cleaning after corrosive primers but not so hot on removing copper fouling.

PL-S (MIL-L-644) and PL-M (MIL-L-3150) were pretty good preservatives but only fair lubricants. They would break down under high heat.

LSA (MIL-L-46000 B) was developed during the Viet Nam era and was very useful as it kept carbon in suspension. It is a great choice for machine guns but only a fair rust preventative.

LAW (MIL-L-14107) Lube Arctic Weather was the stuff to use down between -10 and -40.

CLP (MIL-L-63460C) Came out in the 1980s as the one step solution to everything. It mostly adequate with the exception of not being very effective at removing the residue from corrosive primers. It tends to gum up in long term storage.

For my use, I clean with RBC any time I am shooting surplus ammo of indeterminate origin. Hoppe's used with bores subjected to modern jacketed ammo. Cupro-nickel fouling sometimes encountered will occasion the use of "ammonia dope" ("Hatcher's Notebook" will tell you how to mix the stuff and warn you not to let it set too long in the bore.)

For lubrication, it depends on what I am shooting and the climatic conditions, usually LSA. For preservation, PL medium gets the nod most often. I should also add that I observe this Army advice:

"CAUTION: When using CLP, do not use any other type cleaner. Never mix CLP with RBC or LSA. Do not mix lubricants on the same weapon. Thoroughly clean the weapon when changing from one lubricant to another. PRF-680 (a degreaser) is recommended for cleaning when changing from one lubricant to another."

Different folks have made their choices for their reasons. These are mine.
 
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I like Frog Lube. I don't shoot a heck of a lot, and when I do shoot a lot, I clean afterward, with Frog Lube. Been doing for a couple years now.
Here is the most salient point of my post however, I have never, ever shot my guns in temperatures much below 20 degrees F. And that was not a long sustained exposure to those cold temps.
I think, but do not know, that that may be the culprit here. I have lived for a short time where it gets very cold, I can tell that this is not the stuff for that climate.
 
Another member posted a link to an article/video regarding the lubrication of firearms several months ago. I don't have the link, but it was excellent. The bottom line was that guns do not need any lubrication at all. The first thing I do when I acquire a new or used firearm is tear it into a million pieces and remove all lubrication. . .been doing this for nearly 50 years and never had a problem. I guess if you're a sloppy person and never wipe down your gun after handling it, you might should use a little just to preserve the exterior. Aside from that, the internal parts don't need anything.
 
I was an armorer in the army just when they started getting into the Breakfree thing. It was a very poor lube for machineguns, and we went to the motor pool and got moly grease to lube the locking lugs and bolt raceways on our belt-fed machineguns. Now a whole generation of shooters think that Breakfree is the only thing you can use. Quite frankly, its not a bad lube, but it started the whole "magic oil" movement. These days, as before I use either a 30 or 90 weight synthetic oil depending on the application, or GI rifle grease. Oil is oil.
For a number of years Breakfree has made a variant of the product that's intended for rapidfire automaitc and stainless steel firearms. The product is Breakfree Lubricant Preservative, LP for short. It works fine in everything I've tried it on. It works at zero degrees F. as well as up to 105 degrees F., both in my personal experience. It's thicker than LCP and stays put better I think. Like any lube its important to only use just enough and in just the right places.
 
frog lube

new guy here,old at home- i use froglube on the inside of barrels but 3in1 on the moving parts and i use the fancy sig lube on my sigs just 'cause i can.
:)
 
Frog What?

But my great Grandfather said he used Frog Lube on ALL his guns...

Oh wait... no, it was regular old Motor oil. Scratch that.

All these "special lubes" are snake oil.

I've shot so many tens of thousands of rounds and do not use anything "special"

I'm glad you got your stuff all straightened out without any huge issue. Like NEEDING the arm to fire and it wouldn't.

I'll stick to what is tried and true.

When you show me an oil that has been used a hundred years, I'll try it.

The rest are overpriced snake oil.

I don't think I have ever heard of Frog Lube, but I have only been around for 68 years, and have seen Hoppe's since I was a pup, and got into CLP while in the service.
I would guess if ya got a frog to lube, use frog lube but I just throw them in the pan after a little flower and add butter then fry um up. Gun's need gun lube CLP is my favorite, has never failed me either has Hoppe's :D :D
 
I heard it was canola oil/crisco based. That would explain gumming up.

Bing FrogLube lawsuit, I guess they didn't take too kindly to someone claiming it was canola oil, so they are trying to put the cannoli to them.:eek:
 
I heard it was canola oil/crisco based. That would explain gumming up.

Bing FrogLube lawsuit, I guess they didn't take too kindly to someone claiming it was canola oil, so they are trying to put the cannoli to them.:eek:
FireClean is what pops up when I Google "froglube canola oil." Numerous hits show the Crisco connection to FireClean.

So far I've only seen Froglube claimed to be coconut oil. If it is, Froglube adds something to make the liquid stay liquid and paste stay paste at room temp. Anyone that's handled coconut oil knows it is a solid at temps below 76 and liquid above.

Whatever FL is, it works. If it gums up, you didn't follow directions and applied too much.

I get enough petroleum based junk on me due to tinkering with cars. An edible gun cleaner and lube is a nice change of pace. I can cram part of a dry paper towel through my barrel after shooting 100+ rounds, and the barrel is 95% or more clean. I don't care if Froglube is made from pulverized Smurfs, I'm sticking with it.
 
I see a lot of Frog lube bashers and don't hold anything against them. I think most are set in their ways and drive fords and would never be caught dead in a Chevy. They also have old flip phones. They also never buy anything that says "organic" on it because it cost too much.

Frog lube isn't for everybody. It's not a conventional lube and needs to be applied and used differently. My guns never get gummed up and syrupy because I never apply enough for it to get that way because you're not supposed to.

I use it because it's non-toxic. I also use it because I get good results with it and have lots of confidence in it. I think a Frog lube treatment keeps it cleaner and makes subsequent cleanings easier. It cost more but I get peace of mind. I've seen backyard testers have excellent results in friction reduction and rust prevention.

I use the solvent too but am not a big fan but it doesn't stink and is also non-toxic. With proper use of the Frog lube I don't have as much fouling.

Yes I am a Frog luber.
 
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