Funny reloading error

mikerjf

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Nice to make a mistake with no dire consequences!

I have a Lee classic cast with the flip-out primer arm. Was doing a batch of 38 Special first pass, depriming/sizing/repriming. I run the brass up into the die, bring it down, then put a new primer in the arm and then all the way down to reprime. I always look to be sure the new primer is sitting square in the arm's cup before pressing it in.

This time the primer arm was apparently lightly stuck in due to a piece of grit or whatever. So I popped it out, and the primer in it was sitting square, so I installed it, no sweat.

But then I thought, hey, I didn't put a new primer in the cup!

With the primer arm stuck in, the old primer was punched out and fell right into the cup, correctly positioned for me to re-install it. :)
 
I have had similar "Miss-steps", I like to adjust the decapping pin as low as the inside of the case will allow! On my progressive, there is a great trap to catch the rapidly flying primers. But on the single stage presses, the primers often bounce off the spent primer chute, and bounce onto the basement floor. I found I don't mind a little broom time to clean up, I also found I do mind seating spent primers!

Ivan
 
The NY Yankees will be offering your press a minor league contract.
 
During my very first reloading session (1967) I was de-capping 7.5 Swiss and learned the difference between Berdan and Boxer Primed
cases . All the ammo we could get for our 1911K Schmidt-Ruben rifles was all Berdan primed ! I had bought everything to reload them and couldn't ... that led directly to a 1903A3 Springfield ... I knew for a fact 30-06 cases , even fired military , was Boxer primed and reloadable to my hearts content .
I still have both of those rifles , plus a few other WWII military surplus rifles that were available back then .
I only bent two decapping pins before asking for advice ... the gun shop guys didn't laugh ...maybe just a little but not mean to a newbe .
Gary
 
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I added some masking tape to my RCBS single stage to keep the flying old primers headed in the correct direction to the left or right, collection pan.

However one will have an extra amount of "Pop" and energy when spent, and gets by me and the tape job and will end up on the floor, now and then. :eek:

Some times I just size and then come back later with a hand primer........... and set the cases up for reloading with powder.
 
Not long ago my Shield 9 locked up with the bolt forward. I had a heckuva time opening the action, only to find that some idiot ;) had seated the primer upside down and the firing pin/striker/whatever is in there, pierced the primer and wouldn't let go, locking up the pistol.
 
Not long ago my Shield 9 locked up with the bolt forward. I had a heckuva time opening the action, only to find that some idiot ;) had seated the primer upside down and the firing pin/striker/whatever is in there, pierced the primer and wouldn't let go, locking up the pistol.

I have loaded a few upside down primers but have not tried to fire one yet. I load my ammo in ammo boxes so it is easy to spot one with a upside down primer.
 
Since I started out on the Lee Loader whack-a-mole necksizing reloading sets I have always used a handheld priming method. (I never really cared for the Lee Loader hammer priming method, as I prefer to feel them being seated with a handheld primer method.)

So when I eventually transitioned to a press and threaded dies for my reloading needs I found I still preferred the handheld priming method purely for the "feel" aspect of it. It also tends to be rather quick as far as priming goes.

In fact I even sold the little press priming levers to a forum member on another website when I was doing a reloading room cleanout. (I have never had the slightest of regrets about selling them.) I even keep a spare handprimer just in case I eventually wear out the Lee version I have been using for many years now. I prefer the older more rigid round tray and clear plastic cover style from Lee.

I just don't prefer to seat primers while using a high degree of leverage or by whacking on them. Just me and your mileage may vary.
 
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Heck I rarely even use the depriming function of the FL dies anymore either. I simply run them all through a universal decapping die before tumbling, etc.. This way I can still quickly clean any remaining fouling/media from the primer pockets and flashholes if need be before running through them press dies.

I have found a primer pocket uniformer (with the spot face style cutter) also makes for a great quick primer pocket cleaner. I prefer it much moreso over the round wire brush style primer pocket cleaners.

I have my uniformer set up to chuck in a cordless drill for uniforming shallow primer pockets. (I have ran across some European rifle cases with very shallow pockets compared to our American counterparts!) For subsequent primer pocket cleanings I simply screw the uniformer into it's original plastic handle as that is all that is needed for cleaning primer pockets. It's faster than chucking the cases into a drill as the power of the drill isn't really required for simply cleaning the fired primer residue from the pocket.
 
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