ridewv
Member
Actually it could be argued that DryGas is not necessary anymore. Most gas now consists of 10% (or more) alcohol as it is.
Gas treatment
- Thread starter sparky9
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Actually it could be argued that DryGas is not necessary anymore. Most gas now consists of 10% (or more) alcohol as it is.
I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 quadcab that has the 360 engine.I usually get a little over 12 mpg average since the truck was new.I started using LUCAS fuel treatment and my mpg improved to 13.5 mpg without changing anything else.Try it and see if you don't see an improvement in your mpg.
Shooter10
Member
I agree with most stated so far, concerning the value and effectivenesss of most of the so called fuel system chemicals. I also own my third Dodge with the Cummins Diesel. Due to the recent Federal requirement to lower the sulpher content from diesel fuel, I now add a quart of ashless 2 stroke oil per tank of 34 or so gallons of fuel. This amounts to about an ounce per gallon, and can tell a defference in perormance, even a very slight increase in mileage. My reasoning is, the now decreased sulpher was somewhat of a lubricant for both the injector pump and the injectors themselves. The engine does seem to idle smoother after running this lubricant with my fuel. It is not expensive, as Wally World sells a gallon for about $8.50, which provided me treatment for 140 or so gallons. I used to use a quart of transmission fluid, but am now afraid to do so, due to the red color it turns the fuel.
It used to serve me well when I owned an 18 wheeler, but that was before they started to dye farm fuel red. I still every fall toss about a pint in my wifes car, as it can't hurt anything, and may even help it as well.
It used to serve me well when I owned an 18 wheeler, but that was before they started to dye farm fuel red. I still every fall toss about a pint in my wifes car, as it can't hurt anything, and may even help it as well.
Wickahoney
US Veteran
4406V: I guess my question would be , at what price?
You have increased you milage by about 10%. Given it's so crummy to start with predicated on a 32 gallon gas tank you now get 40 miles further down the road. At what cost?If the stuff cost $6 - $8 a bottle you could have bough the same increase for the same money buy simpy spending the $6 and tax on gasoline.
I do use some addatives and think they work. I use fuel stabilizer in the winter because ALL of my rigs a diesels with the Cummins 360.
Because I ocassionally tow HEAVY loads, between 20,000 and 30,000 pounds I add Power Punch in the differentials. It does actually work to reduce the wear and scuffing on the ring and pinion. I on occassion run a bottle of injector cleaner through each truck.
If I go to Boise and drive around town my 3/4 and 1 ton Dodges get 15 to 17 MPG in city driving. All except one are 4x4s and several a duallys. The difference in milage is a little to do with who is driving and even more whether it is an automatic transmission or has a 5 speed or 6 speed. Out on the highway, with the cruise control set and chugging along at 1800 rpm and 70 miles an hour I get between 21 to 23 mpg.
Thats about it.
I'd be dumping that Dodge that gets 12-13mpg. I get that pulling a goose neck trailer that loaded goes across the scale at 28,000 pounds!!!! Hinest, it really is why we don't own a single gas engine truck on the place other than an old 1975 short box 1/2 ton.
I have debated the purchase of a short box, 2 wheel drive with a 5 speed and a V6, but haven't done it yet and may not in this economy.
Ross W Thomas
Great Basin Ranch
Owyhee County, ID
Oh I do add octane booster to the twp remaining muscle cars. With compression ratios of 12.5:1 and 13:1 even high octane pump gas won't prevent detination, hence the octane booter
You have increased you milage by about 10%. Given it's so crummy to start with predicated on a 32 gallon gas tank you now get 40 miles further down the road. At what cost?If the stuff cost $6 - $8 a bottle you could have bough the same increase for the same money buy simpy spending the $6 and tax on gasoline.
I do use some addatives and think they work. I use fuel stabilizer in the winter because ALL of my rigs a diesels with the Cummins 360.
Because I ocassionally tow HEAVY loads, between 20,000 and 30,000 pounds I add Power Punch in the differentials. It does actually work to reduce the wear and scuffing on the ring and pinion. I on occassion run a bottle of injector cleaner through each truck.
If I go to Boise and drive around town my 3/4 and 1 ton Dodges get 15 to 17 MPG in city driving. All except one are 4x4s and several a duallys. The difference in milage is a little to do with who is driving and even more whether it is an automatic transmission or has a 5 speed or 6 speed. Out on the highway, with the cruise control set and chugging along at 1800 rpm and 70 miles an hour I get between 21 to 23 mpg.
Thats about it.
I'd be dumping that Dodge that gets 12-13mpg. I get that pulling a goose neck trailer that loaded goes across the scale at 28,000 pounds!!!! Hinest, it really is why we don't own a single gas engine truck on the place other than an old 1975 short box 1/2 ton.
I have debated the purchase of a short box, 2 wheel drive with a 5 speed and a V6, but haven't done it yet and may not in this economy.
Ross W Thomas
Great Basin Ranch
Owyhee County, ID
Oh I do add octane booster to the twp remaining muscle cars. With compression ratios of 12.5:1 and 13:1 even high octane pump gas won't prevent detination, hence the octane booter
The LUCAS fuel treatment I'm using is $8 a quart and I get 6 treatments out of it so it's about $1.40 to 20 gallons of gas.I understand 12 mpg sucks but my truck is paid for so I don't have to make a payment and fill the tank too.
Yeah I spend more on additives in my 70 440 six pack Challenger but with 500 horsepower I don't really care about miles per gallon I get plenty of smiles per gallon especially at wide open throttle!!!
Yeah I spend more on additives in my 70 440 six pack Challenger but with 500 horsepower I don't really care about miles per gallon I get plenty of smiles per gallon especially at wide open throttle!!!
Minnesota Fats
Member
I will second the recommendation for Sea Foam. It will keep the injectors clean. I use it religiously in my Mercury Optimax outboard motor and occasionally in my Triton V-10 and Chevy 5.3. Good stuff.
m1gunner
US Veteran
My experience on gas additives is they are about as effective as moth balls.
But for diesels, especially the old mechanical injected motors, 1 qt of 2 stroke oil per tank of ULSD fuel keeps the injector pump out of the shop. Eliminates smoke and engine is a touch quieter at idle as well.
But for diesels, especially the old mechanical injected motors, 1 qt of 2 stroke oil per tank of ULSD fuel keeps the injector pump out of the shop. Eliminates smoke and engine is a touch quieter at idle as well.
Spotteddog
Member
There are precious few of them that do anything useful, besides cause an increase in mileage by lightening the drivers wallet! There are some that are "legit" B/G is one. The induction systems that have come into service, have their own set of troubles. Which, no doubt, will be aggravated by congress now, just as they were in the 1970's. Deposits in critical air bleed ports now account for a large proportion of the troubles experienced. And the overwhelming majority of them appear to continue to be caused by mandating fuel mixtures the components were never designed to function with. It's reassuring in a sick and twisted kind of way? It allows me to "get the joke" even though not having been involved with the trade for twenty five years now. It's almost like the sun coming up in the east. Every generation has to go completely friggin' nuts over cars/pollution/fuels. Only a decade later to wonder what madness overtook them and accelerating as rapidly as possible towards what "works".
84CJ
US Veteran
Sea Foam or Chevron Techron. Once or twice a year for me. Or if I get a tank of bad gas. The Chevron is the only one I can say made a differance. But that really only means my injectors were dirty. If you run quality gas and your engine is properly tuned you should not be able to tell a differance. I am speaking about newer fuel injected vehicles.
A courios question. If you improve the fuel milage on a vehicle above what it gets brand new and running at its best. Would you not be changing the air fuel ratio. Running lean in other words. Can this cause problems and shorten engine life. Too much fuel Rich mixture is bad as well. I am no mechanic.
A courios question. If you improve the fuel milage on a vehicle above what it gets brand new and running at its best. Would you not be changing the air fuel ratio. Running lean in other words. Can this cause problems and shorten engine life. Too much fuel Rich mixture is bad as well. I am no mechanic.
rburg
Member
My vehicles generally don't get their best fuel economy when they're brand new. Most of mine show improvements as I drive them, usually getting better mileage by 10,000 to 15,000 miles. A few have actually improved after that. My 2003 Jeep is getting its best mileage now at about 43,000.
Maybe I've altered its breakin period by running synthetic from the first oil change. Doesn't matter, we track every gallon and the miles indicated on the odometer. It closely parallels the GPS indicated miles, too.
As for running different grades of fuel, I've experimented. You can't tell squat from one or two tank loads, but when you've run about 10 of them, you get a good indication. Remember, different pumps shut off at different pressures. You need to top them off a little to be sure you're full. When you've done that a few time, you can be pretty sure you're getting good numbers. Also, driving conditions can make a huge difference. Its why you run multiple fill-ups to even out those differences.
If premium costs less than 10% more, and you get more than 10% better fuel economy, its a bargain. Tire pressure can make that much difference alone, so do your comparisons with the same pressures, cold. Only change one variable at a time.
otis24
Member
Slick 50 contains teflon which is made be Dow Chemicals (?). Dow says not to use teflon in an internal combustion engine.
For the most part, modern engine oils are well engineered and contain all the additives you need. The one product that I do hold in regard is Auto-Rx. Auto-Rx is designed to slowly dissolve sludge that may build up in an engine. Tests by Terry Dyson at Dyson Analysis confirm that Auto-Rx does perform as stated.
If you burn discount gasoline, chances are that there are few if any additives. One should use name brand gasoline or an additive for cleaning the fuel system on occassion.
For the most part, modern engine oils are well engineered and contain all the additives you need. The one product that I do hold in regard is Auto-Rx. Auto-Rx is designed to slowly dissolve sludge that may build up in an engine. Tests by Terry Dyson at Dyson Analysis confirm that Auto-Rx does perform as stated.
If you burn discount gasoline, chances are that there are few if any additives. One should use name brand gasoline or an additive for cleaning the fuel system on occassion.
I use Chevron Techron. I don't know if it helps, but it doesn't seem to hurt. I've used slick 50 in a couple of my vehicles. I guess I just drank the Kool-Aid in the ads. I will say, one thing did make a noticeable difference with a hard shifting automatic transmission in my '94 Ford F-150. I put in Slick 50 for transmissions. I had been noticing the transmission having trouble shifting. The Slick 50 product made the transmission shift smoothly again. It seemed to permanently correct the problem, at least for a few years until I sold it.
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