Getting an old war horse back into action- S&W 1917 D.A 45

[ClickBang!]

Thank you for sharing the photos of the innards on this revolver. Yes, it was definitely due for a cleaning. As others have said, I wouldn't try to replace the barrel. Keep it cleaned up and as original as possible. Great classic military revolver.

 

[B_Wilki01]

Boiled all the parts in water, REALLY helped in getting a lot of the gunk out. Forgot to get pictures of it all assembled but it was vastly cleaner inside. Oiled it up, feels better, but the trigger is definitely heavy, but then again, these were built in a time where reliability mattered more than comfort. Took around 4-5 hours in cleaning every part and lightly polishing parts. Happy with the result for sure! Might find another set of grips and keep the original in storage due to the one being slip, either that or I throw some wood glue on it.

Looked at every part that has a number on it, it is indeed all matching!

When I get the change to shoot it, I will post the results.

 

[ClickBang!]

Wow the cavity looks excellent post bath. Probably cleaner now than the day it rolled out of Springfield. Bravo, nice work. This revolver has a lot of character and I think you took exactly the right path with it. Enjoy.

 

[B_Wilki01]

Tried a different hammer spring in it (Wilson Combat), so that's why it looks different. Didn't help too much, so I put in a lighter return spring and put the original hammer spring back. Seems to be working fine, if it light strikes I will be looking into Wolff springs or something close to factory but reduced some.

 

[alwslate]

My shooter grade 1917 S&W is a bit rough but timing and lockup are fine. It has a bulge in the barrel about 1/2" in front of the frame. I shoot standard pressure cast bullet loads in AR brass in it. It groups as well as my other .45 acp revolvers. No need to change the barrel.

 

[stansdds]

Tried a different hammer spring in it (Wilson Combat), so that's why it looks different. Didn't help too much, so I put in a lighter return spring and put the original hammer spring back. Seems to be working fine, if it light strikes I will be looking into Wolff springs or something close to factory but reduced some.

I think a lighter trigger return spring does more to reduce pull weight than a lighter hammer spring and the return spring will not affect primer ignition reliability.

 

[Randallhpd]

I have been experiencing lite primer strikes on 2 cylinders of my M1917. Played around with Wilson main spring and return spring. Did not help. Same issue whether rounds are loaded individually, 1/2 moon, or 6 round clip.

 

[KEN L]

Clean it well, preserve it, and enjoy owning it. Don't mess with it otherwise. The gun's nearing 100 years old. If the barrel is indeed bulged, it would be interesting to learn the cause, but that's probably lost to the ages.

Check your math. It's actually 107 years old!

 

[stansdds]

I have been experiencing lite primer strikes on 2 cylinders of my M1917. Played around with Wilson main spring and return spring. Did not help. Same issue whether rounds are loaded individually, 1/2 moon, or 6 round clip.

Put the factory main spring back in it and see if the misfires disappear.

 

[Randallhpd]

I have been experiencing lite primer strikes on 2 cylinders of my M1917. Played around with Wilson main spring and return spring. Did not help. Same issue whether rounds are loaded individually, 1/2 moon, or 6 round clip.

Put the factory main spring back in it and see if the misfires disappear.

The original main spring snapped and I first ordered a used replacement from Numrich. The replacement main spring is the one in the pistol now. The Wilson spring is not shaped correctly and fails to stay in place. I am thinking finding another correct main spring somewhere on the internet.

 

[Shotguncoach]

Long distance diagnosis is always sketchy, so lots of questions…

Is it always the same two chambers that have light strikes?

Have you tried different brands of ammo?

When you say that the Wilson spring fails to stay in place, what exactly is happening?

Has the strain screw been altered?

What is the gap between the cylinder and the rear face of the opening in the frame? (Proper name for that is rear gauge or headspace)

How far does the firing pin stick out when the hammer is down with the trigger held back? Put a dime next to it and take a picture for us…

 

[Randallhpd]

Long distance diagnosis is always sketchy, so lots of questions…

Is it always the same two chambers that have light strikes? Appears to be.

Have you tried different brands of ammo? Planning to do that. Winchester target 230 gr FMJ

When you say that the Wilson spring fails to stay in place, what exactly is happening? The Wilson main spring is not shaped like the factory spring where it hooks on to pull the hammer.

Has the strain screw been altered? No

What is the gap between the cylinder and the rear face of the opening in the frame? (Proper name for that is rear gauge or headspace).

How far does the firing pin stick out when the hammer is down with the trigger held back? Put a dime next to it and take a picture for us…

Long distance diagnosis is always sketchy, so lots of questions…

Is it always the same two chambers that have light strikes? Yes, seems to be but needs further evaluation.

Have you tried different brands of ammo? Two practice types of ammo one being Winchester target & practice 230 gr FMJ

When you say that the Wilson spring fails to stay in place, what exactly is happening? The shape of the hook connecting to the hammer causes it to slip off. Not an issue with the used factory main spring.

Has the strain screw been altered? No

What is the gap between the cylinder and the rear face of the opening in the frame? (Proper name for that is rear gauge or headspace) see image

How far does the firing pin stick out when the hammer is down with the trigger held back? Put a dime next to it and take a picture for us…see image