getting primers properly seated

[AlHunt]

This is what I use:

Ram Priming Unit | RCBS

Screws into the top of the press and drives the primers up on the downstroke of the handle. Adjust it exactly how you want it and they're all exactly the same.

 

[ReloadforFun]

Exploring primer seating

"Completely seated" is defined as the primer anvil legs being against the bottom of the primer pocket. If they are not against the bottom of the primer pocket, the firing pin force is weakened moving the entire primer deeper instead of indenting the primer cup.

Priming tools

Lee basic - no "feel" and little or no control over seating depth. The hammer applies the force, so the operator has to judge by how hard he hits it.

Press - little "feel" due to the high leverage of the press, and depth controlled only by feel

Hand priming tools - much depends on the specific tool. Some do not have sufficient stroke to allow fully seating a primer if the primer pocket is deep. If many cases are bring primed, fatigue can mean complete seating is not accomplished.

Ram prime - capable and one of the few allowing a specific seating depth. Best when used with uniformed primer pockets. If variable primer pocket depths, variable primer seating

Bench priming - gives good leverage without the overbearing leverage of a press. Most have auto-feed for the primers allowing a good, sustainable rate of priming. Perhaps the only drawback is that they take up bench space.

Progressive presses - divided into two camps - those that primer by pushing back on the handle, and those that primer as part of teh handle stroke. Those priming by pushing back on the handle are basically the same as priming on a single stage press. The leverage may mask some of the feel, but it is workable. Those that primer on the stroke of the handle are similar to the ram prime unit where there is a fixed amount of reach to seat the primer.

The vast majority of misfires for handloads stems from primers not being completely seated. Incompletely seated primers are the only time a second (and very rarely a third) firing pin strike will fire the round.

All work, but some are better for small numbers and others lend themselves to large quantities.

Inspection after priming (or loading) should include visual, and perhaps tactile examointioln of the primer.

 

[Nevada Ed]

For years I uses the priming on the RCBS machine and finally tried a hand primer, that I could "Feel" the primer seating when I sent it into the case.

Lots of tools and ways to seat primers, it just takes practice to get the right pressure to fully seat it and not go overboard.

Setting the finished rounds on a table top will let you know in a hurry if the primers are not seated enough, by their wobbling.
These are the ones that might need two strikes from a revolver, due to not being seated enough.
Your finger can also feel a high primer, with practice.

Have fun.

 

[DWalt]

My favorite priming tool is the old Lee hand primer with the circular primer tray. Not sure they are even made these days. I have two of them. I have never had any misfires due to primer seating. The newer Lee bench primer is absolutely worthless, all it ever did was jam, although it works OK if you hand-feed the primers individually. But who wants to do that? I went back to using the Lee hand tools. BTW, the typical primer seating depth spec is from flush with the head to about 0.003" below the head.

 

[AlHunt]

Ram prime - capable and one of the few allowing a specific seating depth. Best when used with uniformed primer pockets. If variable primer pocket depths, variable primer seating

Not that I'm defending the ram priming tool, but variable seating depth isn't a problem.

Seat the first primer then adjust the top down another little bit so the primer is seated JUST before the handle bottoms out. It gives you just a little more reach if you need it but not enough travel to crush the primer.

Consistent and simple.

 

[ReloadforFun]

Not that I'm defending the ram priming tool, but variable seating depth isn't a problem.

Seat the first primer then adjust the top down another little bit so the primer is seated JUST before the handle bottoms out. It gives you just a little more reach if you need it but not enough travel to crush the primer.

Consistent and simple.

So you are seating by feel and not to a fixed depth?

 

[max503]

Deep enough so the cartridge will not rock if stood upright on a table.
Choose a tool/method. Get the feel for it and be consistent.
Another vote for Post #11.

 

[gwpercle]

Adjustable tools and a measurement on how deep the primer is seated means doodly-squat . If the primer is not seated all the way in to the bottom of the pocket ...
The first hammer strike finishes seating the primer . FTF
The second hammer strike fires the fully seated primer .
No primer hardness or weak spring ...it's primers not seated fully .
A factory revolver with factory springs that doesn't reliably fire factory or properly primed ammo has a problem and needs repair .
But the first thing to check with reloads is that the primers are fully seated in the pockets .
This is no horse pucky ... been reloading since 1967 and fully seating primers was taught ... we didn't have fancy measuring devices ... just were instructed ... "seat them untill they hit the bottom of the pocket, spin 180 degrees and seat a second time to make sure " No special tool required !
Gary

 

[rockquarry]

Just something to consider with most of the hand priming tools, but keeping in mind there may be limited exceptions...

Many of these tools are made of some sort of soft metal, I don't know what it is, but it wears slowly to the point that primers cannot be seated to the proper depth. Lubrication of contact points may slow down the wear but won't eliminate it. Eventually, you'll lose the "feel" because the primer is not bottoming out in the primer pocket.

That's when I throw the tool away and get something else. If you like using the soft metal hand priming tools, that's fine, but don't expect them to last long if you prime a lot. I suspect those who have used a Lee Auto Prime or similar tool for thirty or more years prime fewer, maybe far fewer, than ten thousand rounds per year. I've used several of these tools and if you prime a lot, they wear out in a few years.

Some tools, even when new, won't consistently seat a primer to full depth. I bought two of the RCBS Universals several years ago and returned both because of inconsistent seating and because they required undue effort as well. It takes but a fraction of a second to run a finger across every seated primer to make sure it's seated just right. This check, coupled with "feel" will eliminate primer problems.

 

[Green Frog]

Like any other manual skill, the only real “trick” is consistency. I currently use several different hand priming tools, depending on the cartridge being loaded, but for most of my Smiths I seem to be gravitating toward the old, long discontinued aluminum bodied Lee tool with screw-in shell holders.

Wanna get really good? Pick one tool and prime about 1000 cases with it. Initially you should go slowly and concentrate on how it feels... eventually you will start to just naturally sense when it “feels right” and you can speed up because you’ll know when a primer is incorrectly seated by this developed touch. Then again, I’ve only been doing it this way a little over 30 years, so I’m probably wrong.

Froggie

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

Hand priming without gloves is the only way to know that the primer is properly seated. Rotating 180 degrees ensures that the primer is not cocked, causing incomplete seating. There is certainly nothing wrong with running your index finger over every seated primer to ensure that it is not high, which is a problem by itself, regardless of the reason, especially since this can be a part of your handling routine which costs virtually no time at all. However, if your primer pockets are clean, and maybe even if they aren't, you should not be surprised if you never have a high primer when hand priming.

 

[SMSgt]

My experience:
I've seated primers on a press and with Lee and RCBS hand primers without issue--sort of. I actually wore out the Lee primer to the point it would not seat primers all the way, in fact, they were high enough to drag in my Ruger Blackhawk. No matter what brand I used, no matter how high or deep they seated, they all fired. All of them.

No gun should have an issue with any brand of primer, they are not that different. If a gun has a problem with CCI primers, the gun needs work, not a different primer. I primarily use CCI primers in both rifle and handguns, striker and hammer actions, and have yet to experience a problem with CCI primers. A gun with a borderline-weak hammer/striker hit might have a problem.

 

[AlHunt]

So you are seating by feel and not to a fixed depth?

No, the exact opposite. Once you lock it in, it's only going so far. The "extra little bit" I'm talking would maybe give you another .001" if the primer needed it.

Seat the 1st primer basically by feel, back the ram off and raise the top part. Raise the ram again, which will now not touch the seated primer. Screw the top back down until it DOES touch the primer firmly. Now drop the ram and lower the top maybe 1/16 or so of a turn and lock it down.

Now even if you push as hard as you can on the handle you don't have enough travel to damage the primer.

Probably not explaining it well.

 

[mikld]

I have never had a misfire with a stock revolver in over 40 years. My "secret"? Make sure primers are seated all the way to the bottom of the pocket. That's it. I can't remember any "below flush" measurements for any of my handloads. A primer must have a solid anvil. The compound must be crushed between the cup and the anvil. No mystery. One problem with new reloaders using a hand primer is failure to consistently seat primers correctly. I tried 3 different hand primers and none felt "right" and I would have to reset the tool in my hand after every squeeze. For a new reloader I'd suggest a ram prime (Lyman manual says they are the best. easiest, most convenient and consistent method). Excellent teaching tool; insert primer in cup, insert case in shell holder lift ram and push until stiff resistance is felt, remove case and inspect (some will push primer in until resistance is felt then lower ram, turn case 90 degrees and push again). I bought a Lee hand press waaaay back and a ram prime was included. I now have 3, I mounted two on turrets, and I have had zero FTFs in any caliber, any gun since...

 

[ReloadforFun]

No, the exact opposite. Once you lock it in, it's only going so far. The "extra little bit" I'm talking would maybe give you another .001" if the primer needed it.

Seat the 1st primer basically by feel, back the ram off and raise the top part. Raise the ram again, which will now not touch the seated primer. Screw the top back down until it DOES touch the primer firmly. Now drop the ram and lower the top maybe 1/16 or so of a turn and lock it down.

Now even if you push as hard as you can on the handle you don't have enough travel to damage the primer.

Probably not explaining it well.

I understand what you are saying. I don't understand how the primer is completely seated if you have a case with a deeper primer pocket (beyond the allowance you've adjusted the die for)

 

[AlHunt]

I understand what you are saying. I don't understand how the primer is completely seated if you have a case with a deeper primer pocket (beyond the allowance you've adjusted the die for)

I've had my ram priming tool for probably 30 years. If there's been an issue with a primer not seating, I don't remember it.

I did somehow get one turned sideways a while back. Even it seated flush ...

I don't think we're taking about any significant difference in seating depth. Run your finger over a bunch of mixed, primed brass. You'll feel a very slight difference here and there. Not enough to worry about in my experience.

 

[DWalt]

There are (or at least used to be) micrometers made for measuring primer depth in the pocket, intended for use by bench rest shooters. I always doubted their utility, but the guys who want every shot to go through the same hole at 200 yards must have believed that dimension was significant.

 

[rhodesengr]

Guys, this is all great info. So thanks to everyone that posted.

I am thinking about getting a ram primer since I have the MEC Marksman press, probably the RCBS ram.

Is there a better way to put the primers in the ram than by hand with fingers or even tweezers?

I watched a number of YouTube videos demonstrating the ram primers and they all just use their fingers to put a primer in the ram. I would have thought there would be a dispenser that works with the primer pick-up tubes (or something) , still manual, that dispenses a primer into the ram. I have looked but haven't found anything obvious.

 

[AlHunt]

Guys, this is all great info. So thanks to everyone that posted.

I am thinking about getting a ram primer since I have the MEC Marksman press, probably the RCBS ram.

Is there a better way to put the primers in the ram than by hand with fingers or even tweezers?

I watched a number of YouTube videos demonstrating the ram primers and they all just use their fingers to put a primer in the ram. I would have thought there would be a dispenser that works with the primer pick-up tubes (or something) , still manual, that dispenses a primer into the ram. I have looked but haven't found anything obvious.

Just by hand. I've never seen any other way.

Though now that you mention it, I could envision some kind of a straw type apparatus. It is a little bit fiddly.

 

[rhodesengr]

Just by hand. I've never seen any other way.

Though now that you mention it, I could envision some kind of a straw type apparatus. It is a little bit fiddly.

You'd think someone would have come up with a gizmo that goes on the end of a primer tube and drops one primer into the ram.