Glass Bead Media Testing on 5906 Frame

[rosewood]

Now if I could figure out how to touch up the anodizing myself...


Top end looks like a new gun.

 

[rosewood]

Bmcm &skjos, do you guys think if I hit that 1911 frame with the McMaster, it will lighten it up? Or am I stuck with it because it was a courser media? Thanks, rosewood

 

[rosewood]

4053 blasted! Almost too easy since others have blazed the trail. Thanks guys!!

 

[skjos]

Bmcm &skjos, do you guys think if I hit that 1911 frame with the McMaster, it will lighten it up? Or am I stuck with it because it was a courser media? Thanks, rosewood

It should lighten it up, but I would follow what BMCM did and knock down the high spots first with sand paper. Maybe start with 60psi and dial it up to 70psi if necessary. You may also be able to lighten without blasting using a fine scotch-brite pad.

I'm not sure when your disassembled slide picture was taken in the previous post, but the extractor should be removed before blasting.

 

[rosewood]

I was able to remove the extractor on the 4053. However on the 3913, I broke my punch, it just wouldn't budge and that was clamped in a vise and a steel hammer and punch. Gave up, I taped it up well and flushed it out with carb cleaner and air hose after finished.

Rosewood

 

[rosewood]

Just got back from range, 3913 and 4053 functioned flawless as always.

 

[rosewood]

I'm not sure when your disassembled slide picture was taken in the previous post, but the extractor should be removed before blasting.

That particular pic was taken in the living room where I took everything else apart at. Had to take to shop to get something solid enough to drive that dang pin out...

 

[Gilly11277]

First post!


Hi everyone! Just wanted to say thanks for the stellar details. Looks like McMaster-Carr is the way to go and I can't wait to touch up my 5906!



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[Rick H.]

Skjos: I am assuming all of your work was done via dry blasting correct? Have you ever tried a wet blasting cabinet, or vapor blast, to accomplish any of this? The reason I ask is that I purchased a wet blast cabinet and normally use 325/170 glass bead media and it normally works quite well. Main use is for cleaning up old motorcycle parts, which are normally aluminum.

If I have something in really bad condition I will add some aluminum oxide, but then I have to change out my media back to pure glass beads. I have run into some issues with "hot spots" on large, flat pieces so you have to be careful how you approach them. I didn't see it mentioned, but especially on carburetors after blasting them I rinse as best I can and then put them in my ultra-sonic cleaner to make sure no residue is left on/in the part. You gave great advice to strip all parts down.

I have used baking soda by itself and it really does very little other then super clean the pieces. Running with 70 psi and 325/170 glass beads tends to make parts quite shinny but using a smaller blast nozzle and about 35 psi tones down the shine. With old motorcycles it is all about making the parts look original which can be quite difficult to do.

I am wondering what your thoughts are about wet blasting firearm parts and if you have ever tried this method? Thanks for all your earlier efforts.

Rick H.

 

[rosewood]

The technique above is a dry blast method. At least that is the way I did it and assume that was what others are doing. Using the secret sauce with the description above looks identical to factory. I would imagine if you want to try something else, you might have to tweek the technique and media a bit to get the same results. May take you a few tries to get it right. Fortunately someone else did the tweeking for the rest of us. Guess you can do it for those that want to wet blast.

I believe the mention of cleaning/degreasing the parts is really to keep you media clean so you don't contaminate it for the next run, not so much for the finish.

Rosewood

 

[Gilly11277]

Skjos: I am assuming all of your work was done via dry blasting correct? Have you ever tried a wet blasting cabinet, or vapor blast, to accomplish any of this? The reason I ask is that I purchased a wet blast cabinet and normally use 325/170 glass bead media and it normally works quite well. Main use is for cleaning up old motorcycle parts, which are normally aluminum.

If I have something in really bad condition I will add some aluminum oxide, but then I have to change out my media back to pure glass beads. I have run into some issues with "hot spots" on large, flat pieces so you have to be careful how you approach them. I didn't see it mentioned, but especially on carburetors after blasting them I rinse as best I can and then put them in my ultra-sonic cleaner to make sure no residue is left on/in the part. You gave great advice to strip all parts down.

I have used baking soda by itself and it really does very little other then super clean the pieces. Running with 70 psi and 325/170 glass beads tends to make parts quite shinny but using a smaller blast nozzle and about 35 psi tones down the shine. With old motorcycles it is all about making the parts look original which can be quite difficult to do.

I am wondering what your thoughts are about wet blasting firearm parts and if you have ever tried this method? Thanks for all your earlier efforts.

Rick H.

I can't believe you just asked this, I was thinking the same thing. I live in IL and found a guy that does "Vapor Honing" and from what I can see it's superior to a dry blast but also gives a different finish, even if using the same type of media. I'm genuinely torn but I know he can do conventional dry blasting so I may stick with that to be safe. I'd love to see pictures comparing the two on the same pistol, that would be neat.

 

[Rick H.]

Gilly: I am not declaring which method is better, but I like to wet/vapor blast because it is more forgiving. There are some down sides to it such as getting rid of the rinse water and changing the solution. It is not as easy as dry blasting for sure. I have to formulate a system for saving media that is still good and can be re-used. Blending of the final finish is much easier with wet blasting though and worth the effort and investment. The more I work with this wet blast machine the more I like it and it gives some amazing results on motorcycle parts that most people would throw away. I will try to post some pictures of some of the work I have done with it later on. I wish I had an old junk S&W frame to experiment with, but alas I do not. Where do you live in Illinois? I am near Milwaukee, WI.

Rick H.

 

[Rick H.]

Here are a few pictures of some of the stuff I played with. The aluminum block was taped in half to show what it looked like before and after. A piece that large and flat is somewhat difficult to do because it is easy to get what's called a "hot spot" if you aren't careful. Much as I hate to say it, there is also some luck involved in a piece this big to avoid the dreaded "hot spots".

The next picture is "before" shot of a brake drum from an old Kawasaki. I never thought it would turn out worth a hoot, but the second picture shows the "after". I was truly amazed at how this piece turned out. Rick H.

 

[Gilly11277]

Gilly: I am not declaring which method is better, but I like to wet/vapor blast because it is more forgiving. There are some down sides to it such as getting rid of the rinse water and changing the solution. It is not as easy as dry blasting for sure. I have to formulate a system for saving media that is still good and can be re-used. Blending of the final finish is much easier with wet blasting though and worth the effort and investment. The more I work with this wet blast machine the more I like it and it gives some amazing results on motorcycle parts that most people would throw away. I will try to post some pictures of some of the work I have done with it later on. I wish I had an old junk S&W frame to experiment with, but alas I do not. Where do you live in Illinois? I am near Milwaukee, WI.

Rick H.

I live in Dekalb, IL. Not too far from you. Also I just acquired my 4506, so now I have a 9mm and a .45. Both will need to get blasted but they are in great shape already, should be pretty painless once I can find someone to help me do it and not charge an arm and a leg. I'm definitely liking the McMaster-Carr results though.

 

[paknheat]

This has been one of the most informative threads I've ever read on metal finishing. Necro thread & all.


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