Grip preference for 686 6 inch

The stock wood grips pictured would twist in my hand, shooting 158gr magnum loads or stronger, requiring a reset to my grip after each shot. Plus they stung shooting those same magnum loads.


I replaced those grips with Hogue Bantams, and that made it perfectly shootable for me. My husband is large and has large hands and he loved the improvement also.

We chose the Bantams because that 2 1/2" 686 is in our concealed carry rotation, and works even better for us in that role than the stock round butt on the 3" 686.


The Hogue Bantam in the middle is bracketed by the stock round butt on the left and stock square butt on the right.

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Do they make the Batum with out the finger grips ?? just a plain grip ?? Though the one on the right aren't too bad .. but I prefer a plain as that's what I have always shot and am use too ..
 
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The stock wood grips pictured would twist in my hand, shooting 158gr magnum loads or stronger, requiring a reset to my grip after each shot. Plus they stung shooting those same magnum loads.


I replaced those grips with Hogue Bantams, and that made it perfectly shootable for me. My husband is large and has large hands and he loved the improvement also.

We chose the Bantams because that 2 1/2" 686 is in our concealed carry rotation, and works even better for us in that role than the stock round butt on the 3" 686.


The Hogue Bantam in the middle is bracketed by the stock round butt on the left and stock square butt on the right.

The Bantams are quite small but I'm very fond of them, performance wise. I have them on my 2.75" model 69 (L frame). They enable the 69 to be a valid appendix carry IWB CCW, along with the appropriate holster. I do not like the way they install. They encourage you to forgo removing the grips frequently. That's bad on a IWB gun, at least in hot areas.
 
It is, as most have said, a personal choice. My choice is the grips that came with my 6", 686. They just "feel" right and don't look to bad either.

Have fun with you choice of a great handgun!
 

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Mine are just like Bigwheelzip's grips in the picture of her 686 .. They feel like they need to be fuller in my plams .. if that makes sense .. the pad on my trigger finger is too far in and hits about the middle of the inside of the first knuckle .. not on the finger pad like it should !! I have
long slender fingers ..

Are there grips larger then the L's that are on it ??

I hope I explained that right ..
 
While dry firing mine I noticed myself having trouble pulling the trigger for follow up shots .. I thought my finger was too fast but I wasn't releasing to the full length out of the trigger travel ..

My trigger release on my auto's are all SRT Triggers with barely 1/8th of an inch reset .. not the full length of the trigger pull like on the 686 ..
Will take some use to get use to the trigger being that way ..
 
DA revolvers have a long reset. Grip distance it usually long for me & I have large hands.

I shoot mine SA (right handed) & with my left hand bracing it. I use the thumb of my left hand to cock the revolver under recoil. It's reasonably fast. My son refuses to learn (try) how to do it. :p

.
 
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Although I don't own any L frame revolvers, all my N frame guns wear wood. 4 of them wear some Culina Target stocks and the rest are wearing Ahrends stocks. I have a friend that has a 6" barrel 686 and he has a set of Pachmayr Presentation grips and it's comfortable to shoot with them. I find that my Model 27's don't need rubber grips to keep from punishing my hand, even the 3 1/2" barrel guns. My 629-3 Classic also is wearing wood; a pair of Culina round to square conversion Targets and even after shooting 150 rounds of 44 Mag, my shooting hand felt good and wasn't beat up.

Your 686 would look much like this with a set of Culina Target stocks on it, just a little smaller. This is my 629 Classic with the Olive wood Culina stocks.
 
…. I wasn't releasing to the full length out of the trigger travel ..
I have the same problem. I took shooting classes that included stress training, and regularly short-stroked the revolver trigger on follow-up shots. Changed my carry to DA/SA semi to eliminate that fault, and keep the revolvers for range duty.
 
INHO slick wood grips are only for display, unless you never sweat. Wood needs to be checkered to be functional. I guess if your range session consists of only 10 to 20 rounds per gun it makes no difference.
 
My 60 and 66 snubbys wear their magnas and TylerT combos for everyday carry. If I'm going to do some serious range practice, I change over to Hogue Monogrips after a couple of cylinders. My 686-4 Plus came with S&W branded Hogue rubber gips, and although I bought a set of Ahrends for looks, the wood surface is too smooth for my sense of a secure grip. They sure look purty, though.
 
Wood Grips are like fancy hats or shoes, love them. Especially the older S&W coke grips. But for work I go back to the rubber grips for backpacking, day packs. It has a better hold and no worries of damaging them in rough weather.

For home or showing.... or shooting at the range.



For work or travel...



These are my always grips around town or for dog walks.



Nothing says 'Look at me ' like the original S&W grips...

 
My 686-4 had the original rubber grips that work great, but the wood is prettier. I was really surprised that shooting the magnum loads with the wood grips felt about the same to me. I think if it fits your hand good it just works.
 

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