Grip Replacement 638

ginzo

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I want to remove the lock, but being petty that I am, I want a replacement grip that will cover the "flag" pivot hole in the frame. I will be installing the "plug for the IL mechanism. I tried a Hogue mono grip and it didn't cover it.

Any suggestions? It's not life or death but that little hole exposed will bug me.

Thanks,
Chuck
 

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Alk8944,

I should explain myself better I think. I'm not wanting to cover the key hole itself, I will remove the keyhole/lock and install "the plug" sold by a member here.

It's the tiny hole to the rear of that just above the stock grip I want to cover with a little larger grip. My 2nd attachment is a .pdf, if you can open it, I have an arrow pointing to it. I think I have another close up of the smaller hole, that is the one I'm trying to hide. It is the pivot point for the flag that raises when you lock the gun if I'm not mistaken.

Give me your opinion on that please. I think I understand your response on covering the "lock" just above the cylinder release, which would cause a problem?
 

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  • Lock Crop.jpg
    Lock Crop.jpg
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I have a M638-2. It does not have the lock, and it is a "new" J-magnum frame. It does not have that hole. I don't have a lock gun, but I'm pretty sure that round dot is completely flush, it doesn't pop-out or raise up. It's probably a hardened steel stud that's riveted into the frame for a pivot point for some mechanism on the other side. It needs to be stronger than a caste or machined stud made from aluminum.
 
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Not to disagree, but I had the side plate off at one time (my 1st attempt to look at the workings) and it seems that the flag inside the "humpback" that activates when you turn the key is pivoted on this pin/stud. If I remove the flag and it's a stud, then all is well. If not and it's part of the flag, then my anal side will kick in. I know it's a non issue. I tried to look at it when I turned the key, and these old eyes couldn't tell if it was moving or not.

I will have to remove the side plate again and check further now that I know how to remove the flag and not let springs go into space. Will keep you posted. This also Is a J-Magnum frame. I think it's about 1/4" bigger in one place, I don't remember where. Possibly the crane area?

I have a M638-2. It does not have the lock, and it is a "new" J-magnum frame. It does not have that hole. I don't have a lock gun, but I'm pretty sure that round dot is completely flush, it doesn't pop-out or raise up. It's probably a hardened steel stud that's riveted into the frame for a pivot point for some mechanism on the other side. It needs to be stronger than a caste or machined stud made from aluminum.

TY. I will look them up, we are only talking maybe 1/4-3/8" more on top to cover that little hole. Don't want any more thickness, just a little stretch.

Craig Spegel High Horn grips might cover it.
 
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Removing the lock on my 638 left a hole. It's pretty close to the back of the cylinder release, so any grip that went up that high would have to be pretty thin at that point not to interfere with routine opening of the cylinder.
 
So if you remove the lock on one of these new J-frames you end up with TWO holes? One for the lock and one for this little round spot to the rear of the lock. What's next Smith.... three holes?
 
Fchewy is on the right track, the high horn grips by Spegel should cover. I have a 640 with the high horns but it doesn't have the lock. I'd look into the Spegels. Great shooting and concealment grips.
 
YES, that's it! The lock is the big hole, and the smaller one to the rear above the grip is the pivot for the bottom part of the flag.

I just am being lazy and hoped someone had already found grips for this purpose.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, I'll figure it out. If I wasn't so anal............(I think I'm the 3rd hole)

So if you remove the lock on one of these new J-frames you end up with TWO holes? One for the lock and one for this little round spot to the rear of the lock. What's next Smith.... three holes?
 

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